Building up the wrap groove with veneer

SSDiver2112

SSDiver2112

Escott Cues
I’ve searched as much as I could. I’ve seen the veneer method mentioned multiple times but no details.

Am I on the right track? This it where I am. McDermott cue with a nasty wrap. Got it off and cleaned up. The groove is around 70 thou. deep. I need to build it up for a linen wrap.

I had some thicker veneer laying around. Cut off a couple pieces and got them wet and slowly bent around an old cue. Then wrapped around the handle, tied it up tight and then sprayed the outside again.

  • I am assuming I need to just cut it like a leather wrap.
  • I am thinking contact cement to get it in place.
  • May need to epoxy over some of if I need more buildup.
Thanks,
Scott

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R

R2PQZ

Active member
SSDiver2112 said:
I’ve searched as much as I could. I’ve seen the veneer method mentioned multiple times but no details.

Am I on the right track? This it where I am. McDermott cue with a nasty wrap. Got it off and cleaned up. The groove is around 70 thou. deep. I need to build it up for a linen wrap.

I had some thicker veneer laying around. Cut off a couple pieces and got them wet and slowly bent around an old cue. Then wrapped around the handle, tied it up tight and then sprayed the outside again.

  • I am assuming I need to just cut it like a leather wrap.
  • I am thinking contact cement to get it in place.
  • May need to epoxy over some of if I need more buildup.
Thanks,
Scott

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I have wrapped with linen and coated with Elmer's. Then sanded that down to desired size. Wrap again over that. Worked well. Never any problems.
 
Michael Webb

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
SSDiver2112 said:
I’ve searched as much as I could. I’ve seen the veneer method mentioned multiple times but no details.

Am I on the right track? This it where I am. McDermott cue with a nasty wrap. Got it off and cleaned up. The groove is around 70 thou. deep. I need to build it up for a linen wrap.

I had some thicker veneer laying around. Cut off a couple pieces and got them wet and slowly bent around an old cue. Then wrapped around the handle, tied it up tight and then sprayed the outside again.

  • I am assuming I need to just cut it like a leather wrap.
  • I am thinking contact cement to get it in place.
  • May need to epoxy over some of if I need more buildup.
Thanks,
Scott

View attachment 792191

View attachment 792192

View attachment 792193

View attachment 792194
Click to expand...
Why, contact cement?
You want it permanent.
You only need to wet the top side, it will curl.
Veneer is a good option because of weight.
 
SSDiver2112

SSDiver2112

Escott Cues
Michael Webb said:
Why, contact cement?
You want it permanent.
You only need to wet the top side, it will curl.
Veneer is a good option because of weight.
Click to expand...
This is why I’m asking. I’m guessing at this point. I was thinking it would be easier. So would wood glue be better?
 
Michael Webb

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
SSDiver2112 said:
This is why I’m asking. I’m guessing at this point. I was thinking it would be easier. So would wood glue be better?
Click to expand...
Stronger, it won't lift.
Last time I did it, I used wood glue. Wrap it til it dries.
Paul Fanelli also used wood glue.
Dave38 has used veneer also, I'm not sure which glue he used.
Jmo
 
Michael Webb

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
And BTW
The one Dave38 did was burl veneer.
Very impressive

Burl veneer wrap

I just completed replacing the wrap on a cue I made for a buddy about 6-7 years ago, with a Ash burl veneer. It came out pretty sharp looking. He had a leather wrap, but now wanted to go wrapless, so I did this. It's my first try at it and I...
forums.azbilliards.com
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Michael Webb said:
And BTW
The one Dave38 did was burl veneer.
Very impressive

Burl veneer wrap

I just completed replacing the wrap on a cue I made for a buddy about 6-7 years ago, with a Ash burl veneer. It came out pretty sharp looking. He had a leather wrap, but now wanted to go wrapless, so I did this. It's my first try at it and I...
forums.azbilliards.com
Click to expand...
Thanks Mike for the kind words, I have done other build-ups since using the method I used on the above mentioned post using veneers and then after sanding, covered it with either linen or leather. The REAL game changer is a product called veneer tamer(woodcraft). Once the veneer is soaked thoroughly, It allows the veneer to be rolled up like the diameter about the size of a pencil for up to 24 hours then slowly goes back to the original rigidity of the veneer. Really helps with the glue up. I do it just like doing a leather wrap, but use titebond II and use painters tape to secure it in sections at first, once all is set....then I wrap it starting on one end, and continuously wrap towards the other end using some force so it acts like a clamp. Let dry, remove tape and then sand down to the desired depth.
Hope this helps.
Dave
 
J

Jon Turner

New member
Elmers glue all. Coat both pieces and allow to dry. Apply veneer using an iron. It will remelt the elmers, but it hardens back as soon as heat is removed , so it sticks it down quick and permanent. Same way I do leather. I have used nice veneer as a wrap instead of leather with decent results so far. Next thing to learn will be marquetry for the "inlay" patterns then wrap it on.
 
Pino

Pino

New member
Dave38 said:
I do. actually use the Unique leather fig to install it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for sharing. Are you using maple veneers and do you find that it shrinks when it dries leaving a gap at your seam?
This always happens for me and I just lay some epoxy down in the gap prior to sanding. I’m attracted to the tip offered above where you’re only wetting one side of your veneer which I’m guessing minimizes the excess swelling. Probably worth mentioning here too that Martin Bick offers 16” Black Spanish Bull leather blanks in both 40 and 70 thou thickness.
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Pino said:
Thanks for sharing. Are you using maple veneers and do you find that it shrinks when it dries leaving a gap at your seam?
This always happens for me and I just lay some epoxy down in the gap prior to sanding. I’m attracted to the tip offered above where you’re only wetting one side of your veneer which I’m guessing minimizes the excess swelling. Probably worth mentioning here too that Martin Bick offers 16” Black Spanish Bull leather blanks in both 40 and 70 thou thickness.
Click to expand...
SSDiver2112 said:
Awesome, thanks Dave that is what I was planning on using. Never worked with curving veneers and started second guessing myself.
Click to expand...
I HIGHLY recommend using Veneer Tamer instead of water.....water will cause it to swell, then shrink, have had no swelling/shrinkage with veneer tamer.
www.vacupress.com

Veneer Tamer - Vacuum Pressing Systems

Our Veneer Tamer is a liquid formulation specifically designed to flatten and soften, buckled, wrinkled, brittle veneer making it supple, flexible and flat so it is ready for seaming, taping and gluing. Simply saturate the veneer with our Tamer and then clamp between newspaper, changing the...
www.vacupress.com www.vacupress.com

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Veneer-S...Iuw7X6kbFslso8DcZ4LdLnLHBAdiLc4hoCZSgQAvD_BwE
 
Kim Bye

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've done the veneer metod, used wood glue and a sprayed a litte water to make it bend, works fine, but I find linen and epoxy to be quicker.
 
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