Do jump cues hammer your cloth?

Nyquil

Active member
I got out the slow mo video to find out where all the marks were coming from since I wasnt hitting the cloth with my tip when jumping.

Turns out it was coming from the ball not the cue.
That's interesting. It does create a lot of friction so that makes sense. To be honest I love the 860hr cloth but I thought it was suppose to be more burn resistant. I got a bunch of marks and I don't break that hard and my balls are cleaned every 2nd or 3rd playing session.
 

Fatboy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks for the comments all. I play every night at this point so I already got a bunch of burn marks due to draw drills/breaking etc. I was worried about gouges. Sounds like a pad is a good idea just to be on the safe side. My balls are the duramith aramith's and I do keep them clean via the diamond ball polisher. I read a few you recommended the woolite for burn marks RKC had mentioned he uses this method. Next month I may try it out I have just been vacuuming up to this point.
Damp cloth with just water is fine too. The trick is not to much water. Too much water you can go from 0-100 with problems in 4 seconds.

it’s a lot to type. I’m happy to tell you how I’ve cleaned tables for over 30 years. Glen seen it, as he was at my house in Vegas many many times. Find me and I can call you to explain and about every 30-40 hours of play wiping it down. I vacuum every 8-10 hours of play. I use loads of powder so for some people that’s way too often. When I play the table gets real dirty real fast and I’m on the 8-10 hour plan haha

I have cut the cloth with my tip on a miscue a few times over the years. Never on a jump. So it can happen but it’s very rare. Even then a little cut 1-2mm doesn’t effect anything really. Not a reason to recover a table.
 

Fatboy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
That's interesting. It does create a lot of friction so that makes sense. To be honest I love the 860hr cloth but I thought it was suppose to be more burn resistant. I got a bunch of marks and I don't break that hard and my balls are cleaned every 2nd or 3rd playing session.
I get more burns. It’s courser so scrapes more off the CB. It lasts longer, that’s certain.
 

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
I would like to learn this secondary skill but I don't wanna put deep gouges on my 860hr. For you guys that have experience with jump cues and have home tables is it pretty easy to get proficient where you are not marring up your cloth?

Thanks
Brent
HR is pretty tough. I don't even care anymore. I have my own table, but where I really play the most, my buddy's table gets 30-40 hours of hard play on it per week. Jumps, masse, and all. It's said that in a home setting HR will last 10 years, we estimate that he will get 3-4 years out of this cloth. Mine may get 5-6 but I'll probably replace it by then, wanting to try out the Strachan Superweave.

The outsville shark skin break pads are WAY nicer than scrap cloth. Very thin and don't effect the ball, yet protect the cloth. If you're concerned, especially just learning, these are a good idea.
 

CESSNA10

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
I would like to learn this secondary skill but I don't wanna put deep gouges on my 860hr. For you guys that have experience with jump cues and have home tables is it pretty easy to get proficient where you are not marring up your cloth?

Thanks
Brent
Not allowed on my table and jump cues should be banned. Learn to
play the game right.
 

Lawnboy77

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I don't allow jumping on my home table. Mostly though to protect the rails from dents that balls could make bouncing off the play surface on to the rail top as I have a Diamond with maple wood cherry finish, and one of our friends when jumping, put a small circular dent in the rail top when a ball was leaving the table. Couple of our friends teased me about it when I put a stop to jumping, but I told them they were better players than me anyway and shouldn't need to jump to beat me. They would chuckle at that. It's really fun playing safety's on them now to where they would normally just take out their jump stick to get out of it. If you would like to jump on your home table, just put a piece of cloth down when doing it to help protect it.
Exactly! I don’t care about burn marks, but I’m not at all hip on ball dings on the rail caps. I don’t mind someone jumping as long as it’s not on my table. I’ll stick with kicking.
 

mrpiper

Registered
On my home table, I use either a "break cloth" scrap or a Bicycle playing card. Either works fine to protect the cloth. If you try playing cards, don't use any but that brand. Others may leave a color mark on your cue ball.
 

Black-Balled

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks for the comments all. I play every night at this point so I already got a bunch of burn marks due to draw drills/breaking etc. I was worried about gouges. Sounds like a pad is a good idea just to be on the safe side. My balls are the duramith aramith's and I do keep them clean via the diamond ball polisher. I read a few you recommended the woolite for burn marks RKC had mentioned he uses this method. Next month I may try it out I have just been vacuuming up to this point.
Nope, you're fine.

Unless you commit some sort of crazy error, sounds like you won't be doing any more damage than already exists.

And like the Fat One said: it's a pool table. Make pool on it.
 

SlateMan

Registered
I read that awhile ago and bought woolite but yet to use it. What was the mix ratio?
I just put a small dab in my small bucket. Sorry, I used southern cooking measurements. With butter, I just keep adding it until my ancestors call out to my soul to stop.

I think the warm water and the microfiber cloth did most of the work. I first vacuumed really good. Then I went over the table with a dry microfiber cloth. Then did the wet (damp) cloth, then the magic eraser, then the damp cloth again. I ran the air and the dehumidifier in the garage to dry it all out.

*I really thought I needed a new cloth so I tried to use a magic eraser on some parts (where I practice breaking there were a lot of hot spots and the line to the rack). The magic eraser worked but left a white residue. I kinda thought I ruined the cloth at this point as there was a white liquid that seemed to stain the cloth. I don't recommend doing this. I then washed that area again with the wet microfiber cloth. When it dried a bit it still had a whiteish film. Luckily when it was all dried, the white spots from the magic eraser vacuumed out. The break spots and break line looked 90% better.
 

Nyquil

Active member
Not allowed on my table and jump cues should be banned. Learn to
play the game right.
I get why individuals don't like them but I think they are here to stay. I wanna try it out to get somewhat proficient. They can definitely get you out of a jam.
 
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