AzB Silver Member
A debate has already followed your question but I'm not going to join it.In Chris's video on finishing cues he uses a torch to heat the cue cote sealerto remove air bubbles; does the G5 also need to be torched when applying as a sealer? Used G5 on an ebony forearm to seal and got little white specks in the sealer, couldn't sand it out and had to strip the forearm to restart. I waited 12 hrs from application to sand. thanx
That Trent guy is a troublemaker. :grin:
Ignore list can only hide the original post Trent, not when you quote it. :grin:
Check that video out.
I recommend going with West 105-207 as 207 hardener is UV resistant.
Raka is pretty good too but West is the Cadillac.
West System's ages on the shelf better than any epoxy I know. In the long run, the cost difference might not be as much. I've tried a ton of other epoxies before ( USC, RAKA, Aeromarine and BSI just to name them ). West System is always the barometer when comparing epoxies somehow. Those other brands are pretty good too. As is Chris's cue cote.
West System is also open to inquiry by consumers.
This is not an opinion, it's a fact.
The more watery the epoxy is, the more it will penetrate the wood.
If you can, find an old refrigerator tall enough to house your cues.
After the epoxy is dry to the touch, hang them inside the fridge .
A little light bulb to keep the temperature there above 75* won't hurt.
Happy q tinkering.
My coffee break is over.