Gold Crown 1 restore

gazman100

Brunswick Gold Crowns - Qld Australia
Silver Member
This is a late Gold Crown 1 which I picked up a while back.
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If you wish to view more pics of what it was like when I received it please go the the following link



Removing the previous owners crappy handy work.
This is one of the plastic skirt covers which hangs below the skirts.
It was some kind of shellac. This stuff was everywhere and what a mess.
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You can see the paint getting pretty hot under the heat gun.
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The ball box was a shocker. I had to partly dissemble it to clean it up.
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I could not work out what these black marks were in the ball box.
Then it hit me. Its been used as a cigarette tray. Lol.
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Almost every GC I seem to get has damage under the legs whether someone jacks them up or being rough with them.
I removed the cancer and slot in another piece.
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After installing a new piece I then finish off with an industrial filler. Not bondo. as it's too soft.
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I fail to see why someone would have to hack and carve into the slate frame. Why would you do this.
Welcome to restoring tables.
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Last edited:

gazman100

Brunswick Gold Crowns - Qld Australia
Silver Member
Cut out the cancer and installed new timber.
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Now were getting somewhere.
All panels have been repaired and stripped ready for primer and paint.
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Levelling the slate frame which was stained and clear coated in a matt finish.
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I know you don't see the slate frame when the table is complete however I like to see a nice clean look all over.
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The brackets are powder coated in silver vein. Stainless steel bolts washers and nylon lock nuts.
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The slate is actually Brunstone.
I'll comment more on this later.
Notice the brown look it has
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I was unable to level the 3 piece slate to each other.
The original slate timber was not sitting exactly even hence why I was unable to level the slate.
The pic below is the original timber.
So I removed all of them and
reinstalled new timber. While I was at it I added additional timber for additional support.
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The timber frame is glued and then screwed into place.
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Now I want to make a comment regarding Brunstone.
It's common knowledge that Brunstone is more fragile than slate.
However I had no problems what so ever even though I dissembled the table on my own. Then I
picked up the table and loaded it on my ute and then unloaded it on my own.
If you be careful you shouldn't have any problems with the Brunstone.
Notice the additional timber I added for additional support.
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With the new slate timber installed underneath It went together beautifully.
It may not look pretty however it's nice an true. And bearing in mind this is an old table so it's got a few character lines
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gazman100

Brunswick Gold Crowns - Qld Australia
Silver Member
The original rail cushions were Monarchs
They are slightly thinner in size then the Superspeeds
From memory 3mm smaller
1655798432468.jpeg


Here I did a test fitting. Notice how the Superspeeds are wider.
1655798354412.jpeg

Not only were the Superspeeds wider they also were too high. No image.
What to do.
I will admit that I don't understand rail calibration and how the guys who do it actually do it.
So right or wrong I'm going to figure it out myself. lol.

I have a GC3 lying around which came with Superspeeds.
So I grabbed the bevel angle of it.
1655799058329.jpeg


I then set up the table saw at the correct angle and removing the correct amount to of width for the superspeeds
1655799209752.jpeg


Then I had another problem.
The superspeeds were just sitting too high by 3mm. No image.
So I had to lower the rails some how.
I needed a router sled. I didn't have one so I built one.
It runs on Alloy rails and a laminated kitchen top.
I set it up so it's precise. Using a plunge router with a planner tip I went back and forth removing 1 millimeter at a time

1655799633963.jpeg

I couldn't believe it but the rails now have the correct rail height for superspeeds
Right or wrong this is how I did it.

1655800212861.jpeg


Cutting the laminate for the rails
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Trimming the laminate with a router trimmer with a jig I made to keep everything level.
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Cutting out the name plate on the rail.
These are bigger then the GC3 so I had to make another jig.
I had to relaminate this rail 3 times in total as I kept on getting a tear out when I routered out the name plate.
I found the problem, there was a slight gap between the jig and the laminate.
When I fixed that I got a perfect cut out.
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Last edited:

gazman100

Brunswick Gold Crowns - Qld Australia
Silver Member
Drilling the diamond sights. I always crap myself when I do these.
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6mm sub rail extensions.
With the sub rail extension I simply attach a oversize 6mm piece of ply wood, then finish it off to the profile of the rail.
These are easy to do once you've done a few.
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Polishing up the rail trims
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T brackets are powder coated with stainless steel screws
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Rails looking super clean with the super speeds.
This is how they turned out after they went through the rail sled.
Notice how their all numbered
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860 Simonis TB. I was unable to get 860 HR.
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Nice.
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The underside of the skirts. Nicely finished off with cleaned up alloy brackets with stainless steel screws
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Applying the decals and logo's
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This GC1 originally came with drop pockets.
I grabbed the full ball return system from a GC3
So this is the first time this table has been fitted with ball return
Notice my custom jack stand at the end. Patent pending.
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gazman100

Brunswick Gold Crowns - Qld Australia
Silver Member
Then one day I actually finished it.
This took an awlful long time to do.
However now that I'm all jigged up with tooling next time should be much easier.
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Love the chrome work
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Rail extensions worked out really well.
Nice modern pockets with only a 1/8th rubber at either end pocket facing
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The plastic skirt covers underneath and below are painted in the same paint as the skirts
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I know this table is no longer factory original
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A nice new ID sticker underneath.
Notice how clean the table looks underneath.
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Love the white and blue cloth. Super clean look.
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Paint filled the name badge.
Notice how it's inserted into the rail and not sitting above with nice clean edges all around.
I had to laminate this rail 3 times to it right. lol.

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This was my favourite part.
Notice that the laminate is in gloss white. Helps to enhance the appearance of the rails rather then using a matt finish.
I had the rail counters re chromed then I paint filled the inserts.
Love it.
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gazman100

Brunswick Gold Crowns - Qld Australia
Silver Member
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No one was more suprised than me but the table ended up having a playing field of 100 inches
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By 50 inches so I must have done something right.
This returns the table to the original playing dimensions.
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Also the rail height was spot on 36mm
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I just want to say something about the Brunstone.
It plays beautifully. I can not tell the difference in the playing ability between Brunstone and slate.
Also even though I did my own rail modifications right or wrong the table plays extremely well.
I'd like to thank every one for viewing.

Coming up next
The horrors of all horrors.
Restoring a $100 Gold Crown which needs a bit of love.
1655805782660.jpeg
 

TrxR

Well-known member
Beautiful work. what size did the pockets come out at?

Thanks for sharing , looking forward to see what you do with the next one.
 

trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Gold Member
Silver Member
View attachment 647346

No one was more suprised than me but the table ended up having a playing field of 100 inches
View attachment 647347

By 50 inches so I must have done something right.
This returns the table to the original playing dimensions.
View attachment 647348

Also the rail height was spot on 36mm
View attachment 647349

I just want to say something about the Brunstone.
It plays beautifully. I can not tell the difference in the playing ability between Brunstone and slate.
Also even though I did my own rail modifications right or wrong the table plays extremely well.
I'd like to thank every one for viewing.

Coming up next
The horrors of all horrors.
Restoring a $100 Gold Crown which needs a bit of love.
View attachment 647350
AWESOME JOB!!! :)

TFT
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
The original rail cushions were Monarchs
They are slightly thinner in size then the Superspeeds
From memory 3mm smaller
View attachment 647315

Here I did a test fitting. Notice how the Superspeeds are wider.
View attachment 647314
Not only were the Superspeeds wider they also were too high. No image.
What to do.
I will admit that I don't understand rail calibration and how the guys who do it actually do it.
So right or wrong I'm going to figure it out myself. lol.

I have a GC3 lying around which came with Superspeeds.
So I grabbed the bevel angle of it.
View attachment 647316

I then set up the table saw at the correct angle and removing the correct amount to of width for the superspeeds
View attachment 647317

Then I had another problem.
The superspeeds were just sitting too high by 3mm. No image.
So I had to lower the rails some how.
I needed a router sled. I didn't have one so I built one.
It runs on Alloy rails and a laminated kitchen top.
I set it up so it's precise. Using a plunge router with a planner tip I went back and forth removing 1 millimeter at a time

View attachment 647318
I couldn't believe it but the rails now have the correct rail height for superspeeds
Right or wrong this is how I did it.

View attachment 647320

Cutting the laminate for the rails
View attachment 647321

Trimming the laminate with a router trimmer with a jig I made to keep everything level.
View attachment 647322

Cutting out the name plate on the rail.
These are bigger then the GC3 so I had to make another jig.
I had to relaminate this rail 3 times in total as I kept on getting a tear out when I routered out the name plate.
I found the problem, there was a slight gap between the jig and the laminate.
When I fixed that I got a perfect cut out.
View attachment 647325
Instead of taking wood off the bottom of the rails to lower the nose height, why didn't you just recut the sub rail bevel to lower the nose down? To get the maximum play ability of the K55 cushions, the back height of the cushions must be at 1 11/16", then nose down to 1 7/16". This puts the maximum energy of the cushions behind the nose height like they're designed to be. This fix you did reminds me of another table mechanic that replaced the cushions on several GC3's and ended up with the nose height being to low. Instead of correcting the problem the right way, he chose to beltsand the edges of the slate at an angle to raise the nose height, by over an 1/8"th of an inch angled down!
 

MamboFats

Member
To get the maximum play ability of the K55 cushions, the back height of the cushions must be at 1 11/16", then nose down to 1 7/16". This puts the maximum energy of the cushions behind the nose height like they're designed to be.
Wow, THANKS
Out of nowhere comes some of the most valuable info I now found on the cushion placement.

Because I could not find the full dimensions on cushions and how to install them, I ordered them (still awaiting delivery) to match and measure on my rails to get the perfect height (with an angled rail cut of 20°).

With this information I can cut my rail angle to get the right back height.

@realkingcobra : can you confirm the 20° angle?

@realkingcobra : how much is the thickness of stretched Simonis cloth (to align with the top of the rail)?

thx,

MamboFats
 

gazman100

Brunswick Gold Crowns - Qld Australia
Silver Member
Wow, THANKS
Out of nowhere comes some of the most valuable info I now found on the cushion placement.

Because I could not find the full dimensions on cushions and how to install them, I ordered them (still awaiting delivery) to match and measure on my rails to get the perfect height (with an angled rail cut of 20°).

With this information I can cut my rail angle to get the right back height.

@realkingcobra : can you confirm the 20° angle?

@realkingcobra : how much is the thickness of stretched Simonis cloth (to align with the top of the rail)?

thx,

MamboFats
Hi there,
Yes I'm enjoying the input from RKC and yourself also.
Cheers :)
 
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