Gold Crown Adventure

joninnorfolk

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Cheaper the better! I saw one set up for (gulp) $1400 and that scared me off. I'm planning to go to all white, silver decal, polished metal, and tournament blue simonis. (I would do the purple simonis if my auntie would let me put it in the living room, though)

Paint, I was planning to go the same as you did, unless you'd advise against it.
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Cheaper the better! I saw one set up for (gulp) $1400 and that scared me off. I'm planning to go to all white, silver decal, polished metal, and tournament blue simonis. (I would do the purple simonis if my auntie would let me put it in the living room, though)

Paint, I was planning to go the same as you did, unless you'd advise against it.
I used a Graco TC Pro with the FFLP tip and was pleased with the results. I got the ordered version slightly used for $300 I think. The new Graco Ultra Quick Shot looks nice but it's a little pricey. I guess it depends if you are going to use it again.

I wouldn't hesitate to use the Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel again. It sprays with a little orange peel but levels out to a nice smooth finish.
 

joninnorfolk

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The rail edges took more time than the pocket castings and feet did. They've still got two more stages of polish to go, too.

A lesson learned on them was to not use a wire wheel to take them down. It got them clean enough, but it didn't shine like the sanded down did. So, one took a ton of rework and I still am not thrilled with it.

The other pic is in process of taking the rail edges down to shiny. I used 220, then 400, then scotchbrite and wd-40, followed by the mothers polish and the coarse foam wheel. The remnant oxidation or whatever in the pic is removed with the 220 and palm sander.
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trob

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Soap and water soak, scrub with barkeepers friend and a stiff brush, palm sander with 800 grit paper, wd-40 and scrub with a scotchbrite pad, then buff with a coarse sponge on a drill numerous times using mothers polish and a thinner polish (I'll look at it later)alternately.

If there was still oxidation spots that wouldn't shine, I would go over them with the wd-40 and scotchbrite and then buff again. There are a few little spots that I will go over again and then do everything again with a fine sponge and finish with polish and a wool buff.

I'm very encouraged and happy with where they are already, though!
Bar keepers friend has been the move for stainless for a 100 years lol good job. They look like new.
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Bar keepers friend has been the move for stainless for a 100 years lol good job. They look like new.
There are no stainless parts on a Gold Crown I. The pocket castings and feet are cast aluminum and the rail trim is extruded aluminum.
 

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
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I got my feet to look like this by chucking them up in my lathe and polishing them, I cant imagine how much work it is to do them by hand, great job!! I left all of the castings and trim original because everything was in such nice condition. I figured I could stain it and always return it to the original GCI look if I ever decided. I almost gave up on the stain because I couldn't find stain to match the rails, I had to mix 2 colors together in the end.
 

joninnorfolk

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Silver Member
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I got my feet to look like this by chucking them up in my lathe and polishing them, I cant imagine how much work it is to do them by hand, great job!! I left all of the castings and trim original because everything was in such nice condition. I figured I could stain it and always return it to the original GCI look if I ever decided. I almost gave up on the stain because I couldn't find stain to match the rails, I had to mix 2 colors together in the end.
That's a beauty!
 

bbb

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
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I got my feet to look like this by chucking them up in my lathe and polishing them, I cant imagine how much work it is to do them by hand, great job!! I left all of the castings and trim original because everything was in such nice condition. I figured I could stain it and always return it to the original GCI look if I ever decided. I almost gave up on the stain because I couldn't find stain to match the rails, I had to mix 2 colors together in the end.
nice job
table looks great
when can i come over and we can play some???:)
 

joninnorfolk

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Silver Member
I worked on this piece last night... and quit when I saw this. I thought I had buffed too long on a spot, but then it occurred to me that the two near identical rub spots were a triangles width apart and only on the bottom crossbar of this piece, so maybe I didn't mess it up.

Is this piece plated different from the other metal on the table? I feel like I'd be taking too much off to try and take it all down and polish it back. There are also a couple of spots that looked bubbled and I haven't seen anything like it on the parts I have already polished. Any advice or suggestions from AZB land??
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rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I worked on this piece last night... and quit when I saw this. I thought I had buffed too long on a spot, but then it occurred to me that the two near identical rub spots were a triangles width apart and only on the bottom crossbar of this piece, so maybe I didn't mess it up.

Is this piece plated different from the other metal on the table? I feel like I'd be taking too much off to try and take it all down and polish it back. There are also a couple of spots that looked bubbled and I haven't seen anything like it on the parts I have already polished. Any advice or suggestions from AZB land??
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That’s chrome plated pot metal and it is prone to pitting. I just lived with mine (wasn’t too bad). You would have to find a shop that specialized in pot metal restoration or else the pits will still be there. Most chrome shops won’t touch pot metal.
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I thought pot metal was used because it casts and finishes well. Is it the refinishing process that is difficult? Low resistance to caustic solutions?
Not sure why but lots of chrome shops in my area won’t touch pot metal. I had a heck of a time getting car parts replated for a couple cars I restored. If I remember correctly, it was something having to do with blistering.
 

joninnorfolk

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Silver Member
I got away from the farm, into the big city (100k is a cig city in Montana) and got stocked with sanding and painting supplies to proceed on to the "furniture" parts of this resto-mod.

I still haven't decided on a sprayer set up and am considering just having it sprayed by a local body shop. I was to have sent my rails last week, but have been working near non-stop to keep the garden watered since the flood still has my installed set up under water. I have been pumping with a gas trash pump from whatever source I could reach for days now. It should be back to normal soon, though.

What level of gloss finish is recommended on paint? Anyone, anyone?
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I got away from the farm, into the big city (100k is a cig city in Montana) and got stocked with sanding and painting supplies to proceed on to the "furniture" parts of this resto-mod.

I still haven't decided on a sprayer set up and am considering just having it sprayed by a local body shop. I was to have sent my rails last week, but have been working near non-stop to keep the garden watered since the flood still has my installed set up under water. I have been pumping with a gas trash pump from whatever source I could reach for days now. It should be back to normal soon, though.

What level of gloss finish is recommended on paint? Anyone, anyone?
A cabinet shop can also paint the parts for you. They were semi gloss from the factory. If you have the plastic skirts and are planning on painting them, be sure you use a good bonding primer prior to top coat.

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