heated vs Non Heated


AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have played on both types of tables but, i simply cannot get used to playing on heated tables. I started playing on an old (late 1890's) table and moved to the gold crown tables as the pool halls became more modern. I seem to like the older style tables better. It seems that there are some accomplished 3 cushion players here. So my question's to you players is this. which tables do you prefer and why? And did you learn on non heated tables? For me it seems that on a heated table you can do some unnatural things that an unheated table can't do. So please convince me they are better......mike

Bob Jewett

AZB Osmium Member
Staff member
Gold Member
Silver Member
cueball1950 said:
.. So please convince me they are better......mike
The main reason that heated tables are better is that they are more consistent. Humidity makes a huge difference in how the cushions play, and heating helps to regulate the humidity (to a low level). Beyond that, heated tables tend to be European which are built far better than US tables, with thicker slate (2 inches is typical) and often steel frames. Many US tables are tinker-toys in comparison. European tables also have the advantage of better rubber on the cushions, but US tables can be retrofitted for that.

In Las Vegas, heating may be less useful due to the normally low humidity, but in New York State, I think you should see a huge benefit.

As for the "unnatural" shots available on heated tables, I think you can also do those on unheated tables, but only when they are dry and have new cloth. How would you like to have to play pool without any draw shot? I think the same idea applies to carom play. If your old, dirty, wet table doesn't allow a four-times across swing shot, it doesn't let you play real billiards.
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Deno J. Andrews

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I learned how to play on old non-heated Carom tables and re-learned the game on the Euro heated equipment. Forget about the heat for one second and consider that the tables play different in terms of angle of rebound and table speed, which is a result of the different rubber used for the newer tables. There are shots that are easier on the newer tables and more reliable, but again, I think it is more the rubber than the heat. The heat is there to aid in reducing the humidity in the cloth which is another key improvement, but from a consistency factor more than anything. As Bob said, in certain parts of the country it is not needed. Having played on newer equipment with the great rubber, if I had to go back to the old Brunswick tables I would probably quit playing the game.

As far as retrofitting Euro rubber on old tables, it is possible. It is however a great ordeal and usually, in my experience, it doesn't turn out very well. Rail height is important and the old tables are made for three-sided rubber which points down to the ball, so the tops of the rails (where the diamonds are) are typically higher than they are on newer tables. So when you put the new rubber on an old table, a new liner must be used, and that creates a gap between the top of the new rubber and the top of the rail. The cloth does cover the gap, but you can easily push the cloth down and when the ball is on the rail you have to elevate the cue moreso than on the newer tables. The only solution is to mill down the tops of the rails risking losing the diamonds...or of course you can just deal with the gap.

Deno Andrews