How do taper attachments work

shakes

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've looked at so many pictures I think my eyes will cross. For the most part, it looks like the taper arm pushes against the cross slide and using the compound slide you can dial the cutter in to follow the taper and make precise cuts, yet in some of the pictures (most easily notable by those here being Chris' cuesmith lathes) it doesn't look like there is a compound slide. So how does it work? Also, do you have to somehow disengage the cross slide screw so there is less resistance to the taper bar?

Any insight would be most appreciative, and while I would like any and all pictures you could provide with your explanations, please leave out any that are specific to vendors on the sight. (As in please don't send pictures of Cuemans set-up unless you're Chris, but a typical set up for a Clausing or Grizzly would be fine.)

Thanks,

~Shakes
 
bars

shakes said:
I've looked at so many pictures I think my eyes will cross. For the most part, it looks like the taper arm pushes against the cross slide and using the compound slide you can dial the cutter in to follow the taper and make precise cuts, yet in some of the pictures (most easily notable by those here being Chris' cuesmith lathes) it doesn't look like there is a compound slide. So how does it work? Also, do you have to somehow disengage the cross slide screw so there is less resistance to the taper bar?

Any insight would be most appreciative, and while I would like any and all pictures you could provide with your explanations, please leave out any that are specific to vendors on the sight. (As in please don't send pictures of Cuemans set-up unless you're Chris, but a typical set up for a Clausing or Grizzly would be fine.)

Thanks,

~Shakes
Shakes,
I sell taper bars for all kinds of lathes. PM me and I'll give you a cost break down on my bars that come with an indexer, as well as explain how they work and how to.
blud
 
shakes said:
I've looked at so many pictures I think my eyes will cross. For the most part, it looks like the taper arm pushes against the cross slide and using the compound slide you can dial the cutter in to follow the taper and make precise cuts, yet in some of the pictures (most easily notable by those here being Chris' cuesmith lathes) it doesn't look like there is a compound slide. So how does it work? Also, do you have to somehow disengage the cross slide screw so there is less resistance to the taper bar?

Any insight would be most appreciative, and while I would like any and all pictures you could provide with your explanations, please leave out any that are specific to vendors on the sight. (As in please don't send pictures of Cuemans set-up unless you're Chris, but a typical set up for a Clausing or Grizzly would be fine.)

Thanks,

~Shakes
You do have to disengage cross slide so it floats and you have a tracer that follows the taper bar. A lite spring load will keep it on the taper bar as it makes a pass. Also add a kill switch so it turns off at the end of the cut. This is easy to do by pluging the router and lathe into an outlet that is wired to a trip switch. When the switch trips everything turns off. It is easy enough to make everything. That is why you need several lathes so you can dedicate the lathe to just the one job.
I should add, I built a few and I think it is a better way with two taper bars parallel to each other. All you have to do was pull a pin and change from one bar to the other. That way you didn't have to change setups. One is set for butts and the other for shafts. The shaft bar also has a section that scissors and can change the ratio of the joint and tip size as well as the length of the taper in a few seconds. Mostly it stays the same though when you are working on your own cues but it makes what you can do infinite.
 
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shakes said:
I've looked at so many pictures I think my eyes will cross. For the most part, it looks like the taper arm pushes against the cross slide and using the compound slide you can dial the cutter in to follow the taper and make precise cuts, yet in some of the pictures (most easily notable by those here being Chris' cuesmith lathes) it doesn't look like there is a compound slide. So how does it work? Also, do you have to somehow disengage the cross slide screw so there is less resistance to the taper bar?

Any insight would be most appreciative, and while I would like any and all pictures you could provide with your explanations, please leave out any that are specific to vendors on the sight. (As in please don't send pictures of Cuemans set-up unless you're Chris, but a typical set up for a Clausing or Grizzly would be fine.)

Thanks,

~Shakes
On my Deluxe Cue Smith lathe the bottom slide has no dial screw. So it is permanently disengaged so to speak, or free sliding when not locked down. I then mounted the compound top slide permanently on top of the normal cross-slide. There as a internal spring on the bottom slide to give pressure for the roller bearing on the taper bar. I have a small lever that you loosen to allow the bottom slide to spring forward so that the roller bearing will ride along the taper bar. Or you can pull the bottom slide back and lock the lever down and then you are cutting straight like a normal carriage cross-slide would. It works pretty much the same as a larger metal lathe would with the cross-slide disengaged and the compound set up going straight across the bed, with taper bars on the back side of the lathe.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
good way

cueman said:
On my Deluxe Cue Smith lathe the bottom slide has no dial screw. So it is permanently disengaged so to speak, or free sliding when not locked down. I then mounted the compound top slide permanently on top of the normal cross-slide. There as a internal spring on the bottom slide to give pressure for the roller bearing on the taper bar. I have a small lever that you loosen to allow the bottom slide to spring forward so that the roller bearing will ride along the taper bar. Or you can pull the bottom slide back and lock the lever down and then you are cutting straight like a normal carriage cross-slide would. It works pretty much the same as a larger metal lathe would with the cross-slide disengaged and the compound set up going straight across the bed, with taper bars on the back side of the lathe.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
Hello Chris, sounds like you got it down pat. Very simple and a good way to make it work. The spring on the bottom keeps most of the dust out it. Nice and clean.
blud
 
Yes, it works pretty good, the bottom slide does stay fairly clean. Also since It's using the front of the taper bars as opposed to the back, If a chip was to get between the roller and bars, it will not take a piece out of the cue and ruin It, It will just simply leave a high spot that could be fixed easy enough. I have not had this problem yet, but nice to know it would not cut into the cue if It did. I've put mine through a pounding, and the spring loaded slide still works freely. The lock down also makes the taper bars ready at the flip of a lever. both slides are easy to break down and clean anyway. Very easy to use.

Greg
 
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