I second that!
How much should I "invest" in a titleist?
- Thread starter RAMIII
- Start date
Not a tribute
Thanks for all the replies and feedback. The cue is not a tribute. I use the term "investment" loosely to simply indicate a product that will hold it's value and possibly appreciate in value. How about numbers? I did see that $1500 might be a sweetspot. Would any taller players pay a bit more for a 60" titleist? Just a thought
Thanks for all the replies and feedback. The cue is not a tribute. I use the term "investment" loosely to simply indicate a product that will hold it's value and possibly appreciate in value. How about numbers? I did see that $1500 might be a sweetspot. Would any taller players pay a bit more for a 60" titleist? Just a thought
Attachments
Ivory joint, ivory Hoppe ring, wrappless, ivory ferrules and bumperless. That would probably appeal to the most people.
When having a cue commissioned for conversion or designed from scratch, it is important for that cue to be just like all the others of similar ilk. Or else you risk losing the affection of your pool hall peers, and that would be a terrible fate! We all know pool hall denizens are folks of whose character the rest of the world aspires to.
A query:can you be different by being just like everyone else???
A query:can you be different by being just like everyone else???
I agree... But...only if those cue makers are still upper blue chip when he wants to sell. In the next 5 years probably no problem in 10-20 years it will be difficult to tell who's cues will be desired.
DrOnePocket
Banned
I agree with most of the things that have been said. Less is more, Ivory everywhere, and choose a top tier maker if you are concerned with resale value.
But honestly if the cue is 60 inches most people won't buy it anyway. There are exceptions to every rule but... Cues that are not 58 inches evenly split typically do not sell for anywhere near what 58 inch cues sell for
So in that case, have it made however you want and keep it
But honestly if the cue is 60 inches most people won't buy it anyway. There are exceptions to every rule but... Cues that are not 58 inches evenly split typically do not sell for anywhere near what 58 inch cues sell for
So in that case, have it made however you want and keep it
IMO.
I have bought lots and lots of titlist cues over the years. i had many converted. I think the most I ever paid for a titlist was $200.
THE REASON FOR THE TITLIST WAS IT WAS A CHEAP CUE THAT LOOKED GOOD WHEN CONVERTED. IT IS A JOKE NOW. IF I WANTED ONE, I WOULD SERIOUSLY CONSIDER HAVE A BLANK MADE BY PRATHER OR OTHER TO USE AND GET A GREAT BLANK AT LESS COST. MOST REAL TITLIST CUES AVAILABLE FOR CONVERSION ARE PRETTY CRAPPY.
IT IS ALMOST AS FUNNY AS SEEING GUYS PAY $500-600 FOR A TIM SCRUGGS SNEAKY PETE THAT WAS PROBABLY MADE BY FREY. SNEAKIES WERE MADE SO YOU COULD BANG THEM AROUND AND NOT WORRY ABOUT THEM. I THINK I REMEMBER GETTING SCRUGGS SNEAKY PETES FOR $115.
NOBODY WANTS A FREY SNEAKY, 
, ONLY A SCRUGGS.
Checkers sell better than chess.
Best of rolls,
Ken
I have bought lots and lots of titlist cues over the years. i had many converted. I think the most I ever paid for a titlist was $200.
THE REASON FOR THE TITLIST WAS IT WAS A CHEAP CUE THAT LOOKED GOOD WHEN CONVERTED. IT IS A JOKE NOW. IF I WANTED ONE, I WOULD SERIOUSLY CONSIDER HAVE A BLANK MADE BY PRATHER OR OTHER TO USE AND GET A GREAT BLANK AT LESS COST. MOST REAL TITLIST CUES AVAILABLE FOR CONVERSION ARE PRETTY CRAPPY.
IT IS ALMOST AS FUNNY AS SEEING GUYS PAY $500-600 FOR A TIM SCRUGGS SNEAKY PETE THAT WAS PROBABLY MADE BY FREY. SNEAKIES WERE MADE SO YOU COULD BANG THEM AROUND AND NOT WORRY ABOUT THEM. I THINK I REMEMBER GETTING SCRUGGS SNEAKY PETES FOR $115.
NOBODY WANTS A FREY SNEAKY, , ONLY A SCRUGGS.Checkers sell better than chess.
Best of rolls,
Ken
Keep it simple, have it built to your taste, and play the hell out of it! That's what they were made for. Here's my two, about as simple as they get. Player is purpleheart, breaker is walnut, the matching titlist jump cue will be done in a few weeks:grin:
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Keep it simple, have it built to your taste, and play the hell out of it! That's what they were made for. Here's my two, about as simple as they get. Player is purpleheart, breaker is walnut, the matching titlist jump cue will be done in a few weeks:grin:
[/IMG]
Nice and simple , Beautiful . Jim
look at this from a different angle
you are in the process of having something made, and before you even see it you are thinking about selling it.
what is more important to you, having a cue you like or having a cue that will have a better resale value? that is not always the same.
i have done about 25 titlist conversions, and the ones that sell fastes seem to be the plainer ones, just even prongs with bright color veneers.
you are in the process of having something made, and before you even see it you are thinking about selling it.
what is more important to you, having a cue you like or having a cue that will have a better resale value? that is not always the same.
i have done about 25 titlist conversions, and the ones that sell fastes seem to be the plainer ones, just even prongs with bright color veneers.
Not flipping
Hey Chuck, no I'm not looking to flip the cue, but I just want to ensure that I don't exceed my expectations if I sell the cue. I also know that many folks purchase a "forever" cue and sell it a few months or a few years later, either by choice or life circumstances.
This is quite a bit of money to me and I don't want to lose it all. As you know some folks will spend thousands on a production cue and do not get 1/3 of their money back, and I don' want to find myself in that situation. I had thought an ebony titleist would have been rare enough to preserve a good chunk of work that I am considering putting into it, but it's clear now that plainer is better if at some point I want to sell it. Thanks for offering your advice-Ryan
Hey Chuck, no I'm not looking to flip the cue, but I just want to ensure that I don't exceed my expectations if I sell the cue. I also know that many folks purchase a "forever" cue and sell it a few months or a few years later, either by choice or life circumstances.
This is quite a bit of money to me and I don't want to lose it all. As you know some folks will spend thousands on a production cue and do not get 1/3 of their money back, and I don' want to find myself in that situation. I had thought an ebony titleist would have been rare enough to preserve a good chunk of work that I am considering putting into it, but it's clear now that plainer is better if at some point I want to sell it. Thanks for offering your advice-Ryan
Something else to consider. If you want a 60" cue but also want it to appeal to buyers later, have the cuemaker make the butt the standard size for a 58" cue, and have him make the shafts for you longer, but order a couple of shafts to make it a 58" cue. That way, if you decide to sell at a later date, you can sell the cue as a 58" cue with 2 original "unplayed" shafts and keep the longer shafts for your next cue assuming you buy one with the same joint configuration.
After saying all of this, save up your money so you can get a top tier cuemaker to do the work. Play with a cheap sneaky until it happens.
After saying all of this, save up your money so you can get a top tier cuemaker to do the work. Play with a cheap sneaky until it happens.