I want to change a std butt to a j/b butt

[derangedhermit]

I have two identical butts. I use one for my playing cue, and the other for my break cue. I'd like to have a Uni-loc joint added to the break butt so I can use it as a jump cue and also as a cue extension on occasion.

What's involved? How I find someone locally (Ft Worth area) to do the work? What would it typically cost? Any AZB cue makers interested in this kind of thing?

Oh, and is there anything I should watch out for? It seems a straightforward thing to do, but I'm ignorant.:grin:

Thanks folks.

 

[breakin8]

There is a problem put a jump joint in a break cue. You will make a cue jump cue size cue. No problem. But the weight balance maybe wrong. See a jump piece needs to be very light to jump really well. So if the weight in your cue is forward waited you will not get a great jump cue. It will be better then jumping with a full cue , but no predator air. Odom cues is from TX think.

 

[ChampionsRepair]

Oh, and is there anything I should watch out for? It seems a straightforward thing to do, but I'm ignorant.:grin:

Thanks folks.

Things that you must keep in mind is finished specifications for the jump section to be effective for most people require a weight around 6 oz and length between 40 and 44"s. Jump cues have to be a minimum of 40" long to be used in most tournaments or league play. Joint and pin material should also be considered as some are far heavier than others and may need to be changed also to meet these requirements. The cue should go to a suitable maker to determine if this is feasible based on the specifications of the donor cue. Sometimes it can still be accomplished by making a new shaft that is lighter in weight. Then there is the matter of where the joint would need to be installed in the but to meet the needed weight and length requirement. Would the second joint end up in the middle of the forearm or handle?

It is likely that it would be far easier and less expensive to have a new jump break cue made that is similar in appearance, weight, taper and balance to your existing cue.

 

[MVPCues]

I agree with what has already been said. But, I would say, instead of having a jump/break made, buy a custom jump cue. A custom jump cue should be less than having a jump/break made. I know that means a third shaft, but IMO that is a good trade off.

If you really like how the break cue breaks, my advice should have more weight (no pun intended!).

You mentioned the two butts are identical. If you want a matching set, having a jump cue made that matches as well should be feasible.

Kelly

 

[derangedhermit]

Things that you must keep in mind is finished specifications for the jump section to be effective for most people require a weight around 6 oz and length between 40 and 44"s.

Shafts weigh around 4 oz, and a complete Air Hog (a light jump cue) weighs about 9 oz total. Do you mean the forearm part used for jumping shouldn't weigh more than 6 oz, giving 10 ounces butt+shaft?

Jump cues have to be a minimum of 40" long to be used in most tournaments or league play. Joint and pin material should also be considered as some are far heavier than others and may need to be changed also to meet these requirements. The cue should go to a suitable maker to determine if this is feasible based on the specifications of the donor cue. Sometimes it can still be accomplished by making a new shaft that is lighter in weight. Then there is the matter of where the joint would need to be installed in the but to meet the needed weight and length requirement. Would the second joint end up in the middle of the forearm or handle?

Since it's a standard 29" shaft, that leaves 11-15" for the jump butt to be in the 40"-44" range. 13"-14" falls nicely below the bottom of the points of my butt:grin:, so that puts me at 42"-43" with a nice look. I compared to commercial j/b cue pictures, and they look the same, within an inch. So that seems good.

The butt weighs 13.9 oz with the weight bolt out, and the balance point is at 13.5" from the joint as well. So that would be 6.7 oz for the jump butt (plus the Uni-loc female connector). Total jump cue weight would be about 11 oz. I would be fine with that.

It is likely that it would be far easier and less expensive to have a new jump break cue made that is similar in appearance, weight, taper and balance to your existing cue.

Given that I seem to have been lucky enough to avoid the potential problems, it seems to me that it should be much simpler and cheaper to install the joint than to build a whole new cue that includes the joint. Or am I missing something?

 

[derangedhermit]

I agree with what has already been said. But, I would say, instead of having a jump/break made, buy a custom jump cue. A custom jump cue should be less than having a jump/break made. I know that means a third shaft, but IMO that is a good trade off.

If you really like how the break cue breaks, my advice should have more weight (no pun intended!).

You mentioned the two butts are identical. If you want a matching set, having a jump cue made that matches as well should be feasible.

Kelly

I have thought about doing that, and I end up at the same place. I'm talking about Predator SP4RW sneaky petes. You get the cue for $280, including a 314-2 or Z2 shaft. That means you are paying $30 for the butt:thumbup: So to get a matching third, I'd buy another SP4RW, and be asking who could put a jump/break joint in it.

 

[ChampionsRepair]

Shafts weigh around 4 oz, and a complete Air Hog (a light jump cue) weighs about 9 oz total.

The Lucasi Hybrid Air Hog weighs between 7 and 8 oz per manufacturer specifications and I consider it slightly above average weight for a 42" jump cue. It is not light.

Do you mean the forearm part used for jumping shouldn't weigh more than 6 oz, giving 10 ounces butt+shaft?

No. I meant that the jump cues assembled weight should be close to 6 oz. Ideally the weight of the jump cue would be identical to that of the cue ball. Pool balls typically weigh between 5.5 and 6 oz. When the cue is lighter or heavier than the cue ball proper execution for some jump shots becomes significantly more difficult.

Since it's a standard 29" shaft, that leaves 11-15" for the jump butt to be in the 40"-44" range. 13"-14" falls nicely below the bottom of the points of my butt:grin:, so that puts me at 42"-43" with a nice look. I compared to commercial j/b cue pictures, and they look the same, within an inch. So that seems good.

The butt weighs 13.9 oz with the weight bolt out, and the balance point is at 13.5" from the joint as well. So that would be 6.7 oz for the jump butt (plus the Uni-loc female connector). Total jump cue weight would be about 11 oz. I would be fine with that.

Given that I seem to have been lucky enough to avoid the potential problems, it seems to me that it should be much simpler and cheaper to install the joint than to build a whole new cue that includes the joint. Or am I missing something?

Simple and cheap does not always equate to a good idea.

 

[derangedhermit]

The Lucasi Hybrid Air Hog weighs between 7 and 8 oz per manufacturer specifications and I consider it slightly above average weight for a 42" jump cue. It is not light.

No. I meant that the jump cues assembled weight should be close to 6 oz. Ideally the weight of the jump cue would be identical to that of the cue ball. Pool balls typically weigh between 5.5 and 6 oz. When the cue is lighter or heavier than the cue ball proper execution for some jump shots becomes significantly more difficult.

Simple and cheap does not always equate to a good idea.

Thanks for setting me on the right path, C.R.:thumbup: