AzB Silver Member
Make perfect sense. All I said was if I come across a table with a ball jumping problem, cushion nose height is the first thing I look at. Remember the valley I am said I had to raise the slate on? I noticed the gap between the rails and slate. So I did a quick measurement.Here's a simple formula to follow, let's call the 1 11/16" sub rail thickness and K55 cushions the godfather of pool table rail design.
Now, along comes K66 profile cushions. Here's your formula, if the Gandy rails are a 1/16" of an inch thinner, then lower the nose height a 1/16" of an inch, to 1 3/8".
If an Olhausen rail is 1 1/2" thick, that's 3/16" less thickness than 1 11/16" so lower the nose hight by 3/16" of an inch, to 1 1/4" and no, the balls won't hop.
Everyone pays attention to the nose height, but NO ONE pays attention to where the body of the cushion is behind that nose height, and it's more of the body of the cushion that really determines how that nose height is going to react, and play, not so much the nose height. The nose height has a variable setting, 1% higher equals 1/32" nose hight movement, up or down form its determined nose height, based on subrail thickness. You MUST know A) the subrail thickness and B) the determined nose height, FIRST before you can determine the subrail bevel to make A+B work together!
Does any of that make any sense to you?
The nose height was too high and balls were kind of getting trapped under the nose on impact. They were coming off dead. I shimmed the slate up to the proper height and problem gone.
Sometime you don't have to go so deep to discover the problem. I Check the simple things first, then I dive deeper if the obvious things check out. If the obvious reasons prove to be wrong, then the not obvious must be the truth.
If the nose height doesn't fall into what is concidered normal ranges but the table still plays well, I don't fret it. If it's not broke, don't fix it.