Missing Pieces of Veneer on a Rambow

[ToughRowToHoe]

My Rambow is missing pieces of veneer in a couple of places. Can it be repaired?
Would having it refinished be a good or bad idea?

Thanks

 

[ToughRowToHoe]

Rambow Picture 2

 

[ToughRowToHoe]

My Rambow is missing pieces of veneer in a couple of places. Can it be repaired?
Would having it refinished be a good or bad idea?

Thanks

Any help would be greatly apprieciated.

 

[cuesmith]

Any help would be greatly apprieciated.

It's debatable how much you should do to a cue like that, from a collectable standpoint. From a playability standpoint, I've carefully reglued the veneers and points before and mixed up a dyed epoxy to give a somewhat reasonable match. To replace the veneers would be very difficult.

On a slightly different scenerio, not suggesting doing this with a Rambo, but, I have been very sucessful converting old Titlists that had basically the same problem. When I do Titlist conversion, I always position the handle so that the points are up much closer to the joint. This gives you more meat at the joint. If you measure a Titlist, 29" from the butt bottom, you'll find that it's usually only .800- .810 . This is much too small IMHO and by moving the points up, the prong's OD is now larger due to the taper. This also lets you turn out these imperfections. I'm going to try to attach some pics of one I'm resurecting now.

just more hot air!

Sherm

 

[hadjcues]

It's debatable how much you should do to a cue like that, from a collectable standpoint. From a playability standpoint, I've carefully reglued the veneers and points before and mixed up a dyed epoxy to give a somewhat reasonable match. To replace the veneers would be very difficult.

On a slightly different scenerio, not suggesting doing this with a Rambo, but, I have been very sucessful converting old Titlists that had basically the same problem. When I do Titlist conversion, I always position the handle so that the points are up much closer to the joint. This gives you more meat at the joint. If you measure a Titlist, 29" from the butt bottom, you'll find that it's usually only .800- .810 . This is much too small IMHO and by moving the points up, the prong's OD is now larger due to the taper. This also lets you turn out these imperfections. I'm going to try to attach some pics of one I'm resurecting now.

just more hot air!

Sherm

Sir how do you take those apart?! heat?

Any tips on making point grooves like those, or just a bigger sized cutting bit?

 

[RSB-Refugee]

I'm going to try to attach some pics of one I'm resurecting now.

Sherm,
Did that cue come apart, or did you take it apart? If the latter, how do you unglue the points, but not the veneers? Very cool pics, by the way.

Tracy

 

[cuesmith]

Sherm,
Did that cue come apart, or did you take it apart? If the latter, how do you unglue the points, but not the veneers? Very cool pics, by the way.

Tracy

When I got the cue it was taped together with OLD electrical tape. Took me 2 hours to get the tape and residue off the cue, without destroying the forearm. It's not the first one I've gotten in this condition and I'm pretty confident it will go back together just fine. It does give a good visual aid on how a full splice is accomplished. lol

just more hot air!

Sherm

 

[cuesmith]

Sir how do you take those apart?! heat?

Any tips on making point grooves like those, or just a bigger sized cutting bit?

The point grooves can be made essentially like a short splice is done. The butt end is usually done on a band saw with a special jig to get the correct angle and rotation. I don't build full splices right now but am looking in to some dedicated equipment to do so at some point in the future.

just more hot air!

Sherm

 

[RSB-Refugee]

I don't build full splices right now but am looking in to some dedicated equipment to do so at some point in the future.

Does anyone know how to seperate the two halves of a house cue? It would be cool to do that, then add veneers and reglue it.

Tracy