One pocket WWYD
- Thread starter Straightpool_99
- Start date
Well it would be the 6, 8 then the 5. After that it's the cue ball position that dictates the next shot. More than likely it would be a soft(pocket speed) bank on the 14 and getting the cue ball up to a point where the 15 blocks your pocket. If the 14 goes in you continue shooting, if it hangs or is close to the hole, the 15 is a blocker.
I doubt many players are running out from here. It would be a long game for the shooter being down 7 to -1.
I doubt many players are running out from here. It would be a long game for the shooter being down 7 to -1.
Perhaps you're right. I'm playing on 4" or less pockets.
That said, I've never seen a 2-way shot that was made be a bad thing.
But... I have seen shots not shot for the 2 way go real bad when the shot was missed.
Crap happens when we take shots for granted.
Best 2 You & ALL.
If JB could not shoot the 6 with confidence there is no way he should have been playing for 10K. It's almost straight in and he has to get 9 balls to win. Time to kick in the afterburners and make some balls.
If you think for 1 second your going to miss that 6, he shouldn't be playing 1 pocket, PERIOD!!!
I NEVER think I am going to miss ANY shot that I shoot...
But guess what...
We all miss... & many times it's that easy shot that we take for granted.
IF, IF, he would have rattled the 6, he gave the Lou the winner.
To me, there was no need to do that.
Just roll up a bit after the 6 & take that away & he still had the 8.
Attention to details can often times mean the difference between winning & losing.
BUT... maybe John is not comfortable rolling the ball up a bit & if so then he did the right thing for him.
Best Wishes 2 You & ALL.
Sorry I didn't see the ball under his stance.
That might change the order of the balls depending where he gets on the 11 ball.
If he gets where he can make the 11 and move the ball under his arm and get a shot at his pocket then that is the shot. If he gets straight on the 11 then roll up for the 14 bank and play for a two rail on the last ball or just shoot the last ball in the near corner pocket.
He owes one and both balls will spot up so leaving the cue ball on the end rail is a good spot.
Good practice for this type of situation is to put 6 or 8 balls in the Kitchen and with ball in hand the first shot try to get out.
You will be surprised how often you can turn a seemingly impossible situation into a win with practice and immagination.
Bill S.
That might change the order of the balls depending where he gets on the 11 ball.
If he gets where he can make the 11 and move the ball under his arm and get a shot at his pocket then that is the shot. If he gets straight on the 11 then roll up for the 14 bank and play for a two rail on the last ball or just shoot the last ball in the near corner pocket.
He owes one and both balls will spot up so leaving the cue ball on the end rail is a good spot.
Good practice for this type of situation is to put 6 or 8 balls in the Kitchen and with ball in hand the first shot try to get out.
You will be surprised how often you can turn a seemingly impossible situation into a win with practice and immagination.
Bill S.
Let me preface this by saying, despite my sig.. I actually play decent One Pocket. I had John Morra down 2-1 with Shane Van Boening sweating my match pretty hard at the DCC the year Morra won the Banks.. Shane was rooting for me to win to lessen Morra's chances at the all-around. I couldn't pull it out.. :-( I have 13-14 ball runs in practice on a Diamond Pro/Am 9 footer.
Now,that being said, I think the main thing to think about here is that if you can remove the 14, it makes all those balls on the left side of the table play a lot easier due to there not being as much pressure on a miss, in case you get slightly thin on them. You will need that extra confidence in case you get thinnish and need to pinch/squeeze one of those balls in to get behind one of the other balls.
I would make the 6, and get the most natural angle I could off the 8 to fall on the 14. If you get right on the 8, it's fairly natural to get to the 14. Even if you get thin on the 14, just cut it in and try to stun three rails soft to the 5, aiming to hit the 15.. If you hit this even remotely good, you have a chance to get straight in on the 5 with a draw shot straight back to get to either the 15, 7 (or 11!) If you miss it, you have a chance to hook your opponent on your closest ball with the 5...
In my humble opinion, banking the 14 doesn't lead to anything, as it is a speed-sensitive bank. Rather thn trying to hit that shot real good and "just" hanging it up with a safe, just try to hit the 8 ball good and get the 14 as the third ball. If you get thick on the 14, you can play thre rail shap (side-rail/top-rail/same side-rail with top right.. You can go right to the 5..
If you make the 14 and get on a ball, you're probably gonna get at least 6 balls. If you can't get good on a seventh ball, you play to make one of the remaining ball on the table in another pocket and let Lou try to play safe off two balls on the spot.
Anything that relies on "two-ways", and just-in-case is a losing proposition. You have to be hyper aggressive while the balls are still runnable. You stall out before getting 5 bals, you won't get another chance if playing any decent opponent.You need to get on the balls straight in.. Don't bank any balls until you are absolutely forced to, and you better have run 5-6 balls before that.
I believe that playing to the 14 removes your opponent's biggest threat and at least give you an equal chance to any other option to run as many balls as possible. This is a layout your gotta take some chances on.
Short Bus Russ - C Player
Now,that being said, I think the main thing to think about here is that if you can remove the 14, it makes all those balls on the left side of the table play a lot easier due to there not being as much pressure on a miss, in case you get slightly thin on them. You will need that extra confidence in case you get thinnish and need to pinch/squeeze one of those balls in to get behind one of the other balls.
I would make the 6, and get the most natural angle I could off the 8 to fall on the 14. If you get right on the 8, it's fairly natural to get to the 14. Even if you get thin on the 14, just cut it in and try to stun three rails soft to the 5, aiming to hit the 15.. If you hit this even remotely good, you have a chance to get straight in on the 5 with a draw shot straight back to get to either the 15, 7 (or 11!) If you miss it, you have a chance to hook your opponent on your closest ball with the 5...
In my humble opinion, banking the 14 doesn't lead to anything, as it is a speed-sensitive bank. Rather thn trying to hit that shot real good and "just" hanging it up with a safe, just try to hit the 8 ball good and get the 14 as the third ball. If you get thick on the 14, you can play thre rail shap (side-rail/top-rail/same side-rail with top right.. You can go right to the 5..
If you make the 14 and get on a ball, you're probably gonna get at least 6 balls. If you can't get good on a seventh ball, you play to make one of the remaining ball on the table in another pocket and let Lou try to play safe off two balls on the spot.
Anything that relies on "two-ways", and just-in-case is a losing proposition. You have to be hyper aggressive while the balls are still runnable. You stall out before getting 5 bals, you won't get another chance if playing any decent opponent.You need to get on the balls straight in.. Don't bank any balls until you are absolutely forced to, and you better have run 5-6 balls before that.
I believe that playing to the 14 removes your opponent's biggest threat and at least give you an equal chance to any other option to run as many balls as possible. This is a layout your gotta take some chances on.
Short Bus Russ - C Player
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How did you get that from what I said?
pj
chgo
Just be aware... Playing two way shots every shot works aight when the score is even or you are ahead.
When massively behind and the balls are runnable, you must be super aggressive. If you got a long, tough shot that brings position if you make it, but sells out his last ball, you take that shot and bear down with the knowledge that it MUST be made.
If you wait even one more shot, your opponent is going to move any makeable ball downtable and leave you nothing to shoot at. The next time at the table, he will do the same, until all the balls are in a wedge near one of the corner pockets.
That's One Pocket. Protect and squeeze when you're ahead.
Short Bus Russ - C Player
Depending on what the angle would be if I just stopped the 6 I would either stop off of the 6 or draw to the rail for a better angle to play the 5 come out 1 rail for the 8, 2 rails to the 15, 1 or 2 rails in between the 7 and the side to the 11, then It is shoot the seven and bank the 14 then shoot ur ball that spots...... I run out good or what?
It's dedeductive Reasoning.
If you dont play 1 100% shot you must believe the other is. 100% being your threshhold.
Perhaps that is not what you meant?
Russ, the commentators wholeheartedly agree with you. I'm not sure what that should tell you.
Freddie <~~~ the blind squrrel
What's a 100% safety? Anyway, it doesn't have to be 100%, just better odds than the shot.
pj
chgo
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Hah! I didn't actually watch much of the match.. That's good to know!
Short Bus Russ
Follow up:
I just watched the next shot sequence from John... In my opinion, he hit the 8 real good... And then he jumped through the roof on the 14. He had a real chance to run some balls if he could have put that 14 down and got to the 5...
Just curious.. How many people saw the sequence before they gave their opinion on what the choice should have been..
Again.. he hit that 8 great!! It's real easy to decelerate on that stroke and go two rails into the face of the 14....
Short Bus Russ
That wasn't so hard to say now was it
I have some question about that character:smile:.
1. Is that his real beard?
2. Why is he dressed up as Santa? Is there a hidden significance to this, or is it random?