patterns
- Thread starter berlowmj2
- Start date
Well in 9 ball the pattern is pretty clear-cut 
You just always play at least 3 balls ahead and you should get out, though sometimes additional planning ahead is necessary (nudging a cluster for example).
In 8 and straight, I tend to group balls into "buddies"... happy pairs or threesomes where playing one shot gets easy position on another with a simple stop shot or very minimal cueball movement. My mental process might sound something like this...
"get the three guys at the head of the table"
"do them in this order rather than that order so that when I shoot the third ball I get easy shape on the rail cut"
"the rail cut is a stop shot to shoot this other ball directly in the side"
"from the side pocket shot I can get on the other 2 balls, the second of which is a rail cut that is basically a stop shot for the 8"
That pattern in particular comes up a lot. I very often find myself working from the top of the table down to the racking area in 8-ball. Maybe that's just me.
For straight pool, there are some conventions that center around "solve your problems first". The pattern is dictated by the problems. So your first priority is breaking open the rack or large clusters in the rack area. Then your next priority is opening up any remaining clusters, then taking out balls that block other balls from going, then getting balls off the rail... and by the time you solve all those problems you'll be lucky if you have 4-5 balls left. In which case the sensible approach is to just work backwards, or stare at them until you see a series of shots that can't possibly be screwed up.
You just always play at least 3 balls ahead and you should get out, though sometimes additional planning ahead is necessary (nudging a cluster for example).In 8 and straight, I tend to group balls into "buddies"... happy pairs or threesomes where playing one shot gets easy position on another with a simple stop shot or very minimal cueball movement. My mental process might sound something like this...
"get the three guys at the head of the table"
"do them in this order rather than that order so that when I shoot the third ball I get easy shape on the rail cut"
"the rail cut is a stop shot to shoot this other ball directly in the side"
"from the side pocket shot I can get on the other 2 balls, the second of which is a rail cut that is basically a stop shot for the 8"
That pattern in particular comes up a lot. I very often find myself working from the top of the table down to the racking area in 8-ball. Maybe that's just me.
For straight pool, there are some conventions that center around "solve your problems first". The pattern is dictated by the problems. So your first priority is breaking open the rack or large clusters in the rack area. Then your next priority is opening up any remaining clusters, then taking out balls that block other balls from going, then getting balls off the rail... and by the time you solve all those problems you'll be lucky if you have 4-5 balls left. In which case the sensible approach is to just work backwards, or stare at them until you see a series of shots that can't possibly be screwed up.
Well in 9 ball the pattern is pretty clear-cut
In 8 and straight, I tend to group balls into "buddies"... happy pairs or threesomes where playing one shot gets easy position on another with a simple stop shot or very minimal cueball movement. My mental process might sound something like this...
"get the three guys at the head of the table"
"do them in this order rather than that order so that when I shoot the third ball I get easy shape on the rail cut"
"the rail cut is a stop shot to shoot this other ball directly in the side"
"from the side pocket shot I can get on the other 2 balls, the second of which is a rail cut that is basically a stop shot for the 8"
That pattern in particular comes up a lot. I very often find myself working from the top of the table down to the racking area in 8-ball. Maybe that's just me.
For straight pool, there are some conventions that center around "solve your problems first". The pattern is dictated by the problems. So your first priority is breaking open the rack or large clusters in the rack area. Then your next priority is opening up any remaining clusters, then taking out balls that block other balls from going, then getting balls off the rail... and by the time you solve all those problems you'll be lucky if you have 4-5 balls left. In which case the sensible approach is to just work backwards, or stare at them until you see a series of shots that can't possibly be screwed up.
Very solid advice. Can't really add to this except to say that in straight pool don't break up the clusters too early let them sit until there is a little room for them to open so they don't make more trouble such as regrouping or blocking pockets.Also when you open a cluster a little spin on the cue ball will help open them and prevent you from freezing to a ball.Hopefully.
Please come talk to my league team mates. I've been trying to drum this into their thick sculls but no they go up and down the table back and forth.
I tell them "it's a 7 foot table play on 1/2 of it at a time how can you miss 2 and 3 footers?"
If there are problems, which there usually are in 14.1 and 8 ball, sometimes in 9 ball, I plan according to the problems.
For example if I'm playing 9 ball and the 4/7 are tied up, I'm not looking any further than the 4 either finding a way to get position to break open the 4/7 or playing safe hoping to get bih so I can break them open. There is an excellent video of Ray Martin giving a 14.1 lesson where he runs about 100 balls and stops frequently to explain to the students what he is thinking. When there are problems, he says he isn't thinking about a key ball or breakout ball, only breaking open the problem.
But then, I'm just a banger.
For example if I'm playing 9 ball and the 4/7 are tied up, I'm not looking any further than the 4 either finding a way to get position to break open the 4/7 or playing safe hoping to get bih so I can break them open. There is an excellent video of Ray Martin giving a 14.1 lesson where he runs about 100 balls and stops frequently to explain to the students what he is thinking. When there are problems, he says he isn't thinking about a key ball or breakout ball, only breaking open the problem.
But then, I'm just a banger.
when it comes to straight pool.. I am a big fan of the "outside in" approach
start with the balls near the rails and near the pockets and work your way back into the stack..
8 and 9 ball have more clear cut right and wrong moves...
a 14.1 rack is like molding clay.. you work it and shape it.... to much to fast and it all falls apart..... you have to nudge and tease the balls..
it either ends up beautiful.. or it collapses and you look like a fool LOL
start with the balls near the rails and near the pockets and work your way back into the stack..
8 and 9 ball have more clear cut right and wrong moves...
a 14.1 rack is like molding clay.. you work it and shape it.... to much to fast and it all falls apart..... you have to nudge and tease the balls..
it either ends up beautiful.. or it collapses and you look like a fool LOL
The key to solid pattern play in 14.1 is, as stated, addressing your problems but also leaving important balls for last. You want to find a pattern that requires minimal work toward the end of the rack. In this randomly generated layout, there are plenty of break balls but (IMO) one is far easier than the rest simply because the path leading to it is more simple and more predictable. You're welcome to examine which break shot is best before I give my personal preference.
jdxprs
Banned
i started a thread not to long ago saying the hardest thing to teach was playing the proper patterns. some people just dont get it. i really believe the only ones that do, are the ones who REALLY want to learn. majority of league players never will.
The 12 and 13 are definitely my last two balls. I can't say I'd save the 4 though. It's almost unnecessary given the position of the 12 and 13. I mean, if a pattern develops where I can be certain to get near straight on the 4, I'll do it. If not, I'll pick it off and rely on the big position window the 12 offers.
In 8b I plan the rack backwards,in 9b I mostly pay attention to the task at hand,but I am aware of the angle I need on the 7,8 but I dont plan the 9b rack completely backwards though if its an easy layout its pretty obvious although I do plan what pockets they are going to b played in