Pocket Measurements how tight is tight?

PlynSets

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a table that measures 4 1/4 in the jaws, and a little above that at the points (It's mostly a straight cut table, very little "flare")

What does the standard meaning of "TRIPLE SHIMMED" mean as far as a Gold Crown? I played at a pool hall once that claimed they had a "triple shimmed" GC, and I thought it played considerably tougher then my table.. As well the eyeball test with 2 object balls revealed to me that the jaws were smaller then 4 1/4..

I'm asking the mechanics here, how tight is "triple shimmed?" Is 4 1/4 more like double shimmed?

DJ
 

Poolschool

Pool table nerd
Silver Member
I don't like to refer to any pocket openings as being shimmed. I don't like the way they play. The correct way to "shim" or tighten your pockets is to extend the sub-rail and recut the cushions to the desired length and then apply a facing (aka shim). This will tighten the pockets and also keep ball pocketing true. Too many facings/shims can result to rattling balls in the pockets. Balls that are supposed to be pocketed are rejected. Not because the player didnt shoot the ball on the correct line but because the shimming of the pockets deadens or redirects the ball's natural path with respect to the pocket/rail cut.

I think 4.25" is very tough and should be acceptable for any player professional or avid to practice on. For a rookie 4.25" is just too tight.

Extending the sub-rail may not be the best method for you to tighten your GC because of cost and time. But, I guarantee it plays much better then simply adding more cheap, hard rubber to your rail cuts. Its just an easy, cheaper and faster way out.

When measuring your pocket width measure from the nose to nose across.
 

sixpack

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
PlynSets said:
I have a table that measures 4 1/4 in the jaws, and a little above that at the points (It's mostly a straight cut table, very little "flare")

What does the standard meaning of "TRIPLE SHIMMED" mean as far as a Gold Crown? I played at a pool hall once that claimed they had a "triple shimmed" GC, and I thought it played considerably tougher then my table.. As well the eyeball test with 2 object balls revealed to me that the jaws were smaller then 4 1/4..

I'm asking the mechanics here, how tight is "triple shimmed?" Is 4 1/4 more like double shimmed?

DJ

DJ,

Are you thinking that two-ball widths would be 4 1/4 "? I think Balls are 2 1/4" each, so two balls fitting tightly would be 4 1/2". Maybe that's where the confusion is.

Cheers,
RC
 

Tablemechanic

Member
Silver Member
Pocket sizes

Triple shimmed is when they use 3 facings on each side of the pocket to tighten up the pocket. The problem with this is it makes a big dead spot on the rail next to the pocket and you keep the stock pocket angle. When you keep the stock pocket angle and tighten up the table that tight, the pocket will spit balls out if they are not hit perfect. Pocket facings range in thickness from 1/8" to 1/4", so when you start to glue them on to the end of a rail you could have a very tight pocket if you put 3 of the 1/4" facings on each side of the pocket and a huge dead spot on the rail. I do not like to use more than a 1/4" facing with an 1/8" facing to tighten up a pocket. That will take a pocket down to about 4.5". If you go any smaller than that you really need to extend the rail and change the pocket angle to make it play right. 4 1/4" pockets are tighter than a double shimed pocket. It all depends on what the guy did when he was doing the pockets. I always measure the pockets from the points. Also the angles of your pockets were change when I did that table to make it play right.

Steve
 

PlynSets

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I know my table had the rerails redone, and the pocket angles changed..

I guess what I was asking is we "hear" the terms "double shimmed" and triple shimmed GC's on AZ Billiards all the time. I was curious as to how tight a double shimmed GC is, and how tight a triple shimmed GC is..

SixPack, I actually took a picture of where the balls are at in relation to the pocket opening on my table ( 4 1/4 ) 2 balls don't fit in the mouth of the pocket. I.E. Side by side they won't fit in between the 2 points.

DJ
 

mnShooter

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
There is a discrepency in what double shimmed means. Some think it is just adding one shim while others say it is adding two shims to each side. The reason is because there has to be a shim on the end of every rail from the factory. So whether you count the factory shim is up to you.

I don't think anyone in their right mind would add 3 shims to each side. So they probably added two shims to each side. Lets say they were originally 5" and you add two 3/16" shims to each side that would make them 4 1/4" at the points.

I don't refer to them as double shimmed or tripple shimmed. They are called pocket facings not shims. Shims are what you use to level the table. I just describe pockets by distance between the points and whether they bobble or not.

I prefer smaller pockets that don't bobble. If it hits the inside of the pocket it should go in.
 
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Tom M

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a new Olhausen 8' Remington. It's pretty stout for a furniture table, and I insisted on 1" slate rather than their "standard" 7/8". Two balls just fit in the the outerpart of the pocket that is defined by the cushions (jaws?)and it measures 4.5" there. It's definitely tighter further in to the pocket.

I'm not a good player yet, but on most tables I'm a decent shot maker. I am constantly rattling or bobbling shots on this table. It's infuriating, but I just assumed that it's a characteristic of a fairly tight table. Is it possible that the cut or shape of the cushion ends is out of wack? The table was installed by the dealer's crew FWIW.

Yes, I do sometimes shoot a little too hard - dang-it!

Thanks,
Tom
 
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