Removing parmanent marker
- Thread starter cueguy
- Start date
Don't know why your friend would want to erase autographs but.....
The only thing I can think of that MAY NOT harm the finish would be citrus cleaners like Simple Green for instance.
If there's even a chance here, it will take several applications. Depending on how porous the finish is, it may be impossible. 100%
we would mark a "White Board" type square with a magic marker.. let dry.. then pour (not scrub) our product over the mark then do the same thing with Simple Green (since it was so popular). Both removed the mark. Of course ours did it way better.
The only thing I can think of that MAY NOT harm the finish would be citrus cleaners like Simple Green for instance.
If there's even a chance here, it will take several applications. Depending on how porous the finish is, it may be impossible. 100%
we would mark a "White Board" type square with a magic marker.. let dry.. then pour (not scrub) our product over the mark then do the same thing with Simple Green (since it was so popular). Both removed the mark. Of course ours did it way better.
Acetone will work on the Sharpe , but as you say, what's the finish>
I say sell the cue for the autographs and buy a new Jacoby.
I believe Jacoby uses a UV finish. I would go with what Dave suggested.
You might also want to check if the signatures have been finished over at some time.
Call Jacoby
Pool Hand Luke
Well-known member
There's a reason why it's called permanent.
I've had luck most of the time with lighter fluid using either a paper towel, cotton ball or Qtip.
I've had luck most of the time with lighter fluid using either a paper towel, cotton ball or Qtip.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
Be careful with acetone.
I used to take sharpie off of powder coated parts with isopropyl.
I'd likely just put it in the lathe and polish it out with compound.
Or sell it to someone who wants the autographed cue.
I used to take sharpie off of powder coated parts with isopropyl.
I'd likely just put it in the lathe and polish it out with compound.
Or sell it to someone who wants the autographed cue.
snookered_again
Active member
I had some lines on my cloth that were not drawn quite right. it took some time but the light seems to be fading it. how about setting the cue where it can see some light when not in use? obviously you dont want to warp the cue but maybe under a strong LED light with thoughts of humidity control as well?
acetone will dissolve many things so it may wreck the finish it has. Ill often use it to soften paint when repainting things. if I dont wish to strip them and it tends to dull most paints and finishes. Some like UV cured stuff or maybe epoxy may have a higher resistance. It'll wash off shellac or lacquer finishes very easily.
acetone will dissolve many things so it may wreck the finish it has. Ill often use it to soften paint when repainting things. if I dont wish to strip them and it tends to dull most paints and finishes. Some like UV cured stuff or maybe epoxy may have a higher resistance. It'll wash off shellac or lacquer finishes very easily.
Pocket Change
Member
DITTO, For lack of better words, acetone is an aggressive solvent, used a lot when working with polyester & epoxy resins. You can really do some damage with it if you're not careful.
snookered_again
Active member
I think those sharpie pens are alcohol based. if the cue has shellac or lacquer it may bother it, but unless it's old it's probably got some new style finish like epoxy or UV cured coating and that may be somewhat resistant to alcohol.
the 3m polishing compounds may work otherwise, they come in different grades and work well for bringing old plastic items back from being oxidised.
look for plastic polish, or maybe a cut polish for a car, that wouldn't be so harsh. maybe you have something you use to clean pool balls and such? turtle wax? silver or brass polish? they sell kits to fix fogged headlight lenses and stuff. Id see what you have around the house. toothpaste may be a bit coarse.
sometimes I lacquer antiques and use gloss, but I don't really want a bright shiny gloss so I buy a product called "wool lube" from mohawk finihshing supplies, you can try just a hand soap or leather cleaner or similar. it only takes a dab.
I use fine steel wool and rub the finish out, this removes that high shine which does not belong on an antique unless you want it to look like it just left the factory. it basically makes the fine steel wool not fall apart and it cuts better , like wet sanding , sort of. im left with a shine but not like a new piano, I want a smooth rubbed finish like an old worn antique hand rail basically.
I like that way because if I spray lacquer and don't have a perfectly dust proof area it hides the sins or dust nibs, cause by some amount of dust. some use burlap and pumice powder, similar idea.
the 3m polishing compounds may work otherwise, they come in different grades and work well for bringing old plastic items back from being oxidised.
look for plastic polish, or maybe a cut polish for a car, that wouldn't be so harsh. maybe you have something you use to clean pool balls and such? turtle wax? silver or brass polish? they sell kits to fix fogged headlight lenses and stuff. Id see what you have around the house. toothpaste may be a bit coarse.
sometimes I lacquer antiques and use gloss, but I don't really want a bright shiny gloss so I buy a product called "wool lube" from mohawk finihshing supplies, you can try just a hand soap or leather cleaner or similar. it only takes a dab.
I use fine steel wool and rub the finish out, this removes that high shine which does not belong on an antique unless you want it to look like it just left the factory. it basically makes the fine steel wool not fall apart and it cuts better , like wet sanding , sort of. im left with a shine but not like a new piano, I want a smooth rubbed finish like an old worn antique hand rail basically.
I like that way because if I spray lacquer and don't have a perfectly dust proof area it hides the sins or dust nibs, cause by some amount of dust. some use burlap and pumice powder, similar idea.