Schon forearm

Rodney

Rodney

hot7339
Silver Member
I dismantled a bent schon cue(about 12yrs.old)today, and was surprised to find the tenon on the forearm was only 1/16th, and the mortise was a larger diameter than the tenon by about 1/16th. Consequently, this is where the bend in the cue was. There was no warp in the cue, only a bend where the forearm andhandle were attached. It seemed like the joint loosened up.

I'm not sure the failure was from abuse, but it doesn't seem like this would have held up anyway.

Is this a common way to attach the forearm to the handle??

Rod
 
Yes, Please post some pics.
You have our interest peaked :D .

Thanks,

Jon
 
Here are the pics of the schon cue.

I removed a small black ring(approx..06)from the forearm at the base of the tenon. I also bored and plugged the screw hole in the forearm. The actual tenon was approximately .06 before I removed the black ring.

I tried to show the mortise in the handle, but the only remaining piece is that small ring. You can see the depth, the glue, and the screw hole.

Any comments?

Rod
 

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I'm surpised there's no 3/8 or 5/16 stud in there.
That looks very weak to me.
No threads, no long tenon. Might as well use biscuit.

:D
 
JoeyInCali said:
I'm surpised there's no 3/8 or 5/16 stud in there.
That looks very weak to me.
No threads, no long tenon. Might as well use biscuit.

:D
Click to expand...
Don't get any ideas. :D
 
hot7339 said:
There was a 3 inch 3/8x16 screw, I just did not show it.

Rod
Click to expand...
Thnx Rod.

I think your theory of the tenon clearance being around 1/16th explains it.
That is just way too much slop.
 
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This will change the way alot of people look at a Schon.

Too bad for them.

If my dad sees this, he might sell both of his :D
 
Ever seen a jump-break cue? No tenon at all! :0
I've talked to one well-known cuemaker that doesn't put a tenon at the A joint.
That being said, I'm a pretty firm believer in a 3/4" diameter tenon about 1" long.
I have a friend that threads the tenon + uses a bolt.
 
the work on the rest of the cue looks really good. Maybe a dumb question, but How could someone get the tenon off that bad by accident? Cutting tenons close takes practice, but even on my worse day I would not have missed It by that much. the older Schons definatly seem to be well built to me, and even the newer seem good, compared to many productions. Is It possible that the glue could have been of the elastic kind, and was done that way for dampening purposes?


Interesting concept on threading both bolt and tennon, sounds like a solid connection.
 
Cue Crazy said:
the work on the rest of the cue looks really good. Maybe a dumb question, but How could someone get the tenon off that bad by accident? Cutting tenons close takes practice, but even on my worse day I would not have missed It by that much. the older Schons definatly seem to be well built to me, and even the newer seem good, compared to many productions. Is It possible that the glue could have been of the elastic kind, and was done that way for dampening purposes?


Interesting concept on threading both bolt and tennon, sounds like a solid connection.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't the tennon and the threaded rod have to have the same number of tpi? Seems it would be better to have no tennon at all than one that short and with that much clearance.
 
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BiG_JoN said:
This will change the way alot of people look at a Schon.

Too bad for them.

If my dad sees this, he might sell both of his :D
Click to expand...


I am certainly not trying to make schon look bad. I am just curious about their construction, and everyone's opinion.

Schon's reputation for making a great cue is well founded. I have played with a few and like the way they hit. I also see many old cues that have stood the test of time, and am not sure if the failure on this cue was from abuse, it is very possible.

Sheldon has a good point, jump break cues seem just fine.

Rodney
 
I've talked to one well-known cuemaker that doesn't put a tenon at the A joint.
I think his cues will develop a buzz
That being said, I'm a pretty firm believer in a 3/4" diameter tenon about 1" long. I agree.
I have a friend that threads the tenon + uses a bolt.
I think that'd be redundant.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I have a friend that threads the tenon + uses a bolt.
I think that'd be redundant.
Click to expand...
With a threaded tenon, you increase the glueing surface without getting a female side with less wall thickness. ;)

Tracy
 
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