technically...

While many players may not like the feel or feed back of a Predator shaft and prefer something different. The fact of the matter is that by totally disregarding a Predator shafts deflection reducing attributes as folly not only is doing a disservice to himself and his customers but also to the law of physics. There is a reason why over half of the Pro's use a Predator shaft and it's not from being paid to do so as with so many other items of pool paraphernalia.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
While many players may not like the feel or feed back of a Predator shaft and prefer something different. The fact of the matter is that by totally disregarding a Predator shafts deflection reducing attributes as folly not only is doing a disservice to himself and his customers but also to the law of physics. There is a reason why over half of the Pro's use a Predator shaft and it's not from being paid to do so as with so many other items of pool paraphernalia.

Dick
Click to expand...

Dick, I do agree that many Pro-players use the Predator shaft. I also agree that WHEN NEWthe shafts do have the ability to reduce deflection. However, the claim that once you adjust to a Predators non-deflection you can pick-up any Predator Shaft of the same type and there is no difference is Bull Sh!t. In fact since you brought up the pro-players you may or may not be aware that they change their shafts every 6 to 8 months because they know that these shafts break down and lose the ability to decrease deflection, and they do not pay what the average player pays for a new shaft.

Now the average person is unaware of this, and no one advertises it, however it is a fact that cannot be discounted. The reason most players do not realize it, is because as the front end of the shaft, mainly the foam filled ferrule begins to compress from use the foam breaks down, and the shaft loses it's ability to reduce deflection. This is a slow process that happens over months of daily use. Since it is slow, the player slowly adjusts their stroke along with it.

This is why, someone who has been using the same Predator shaft for a year or more will have problems adjusting to a new Predator shaft of the same type.

Now those in the know have known this for a long time. This is my problem with this shaft, and the fact that they so expensive being made in China, as the dowels for the shafts have been forever. I have no problem for someone being paid for their work, but 1000% profit is a little much, and they should also disclose the issue I have outlined above. You see $200+ dollars is a great deal of money for the average player, especially when the product will lose it's ability to do what you have paid for.

I think here we will have to agree to disagree, have a nice day!!!!!
 
to shaft or not to shaft

this thread isn't about Predator's shafts....
it's about shaft taper and the terms used for
different type tapers.
Does anyone care to express their opinion on
the names currently used to describe these
different tapers?

manwon,
thanks for the insight into the long term use of these shafts.
I have one I've been playing with for 2 years, it's the 1st gen
and I think it still performs well but maybe I have gotten used to it.
I've changed the taper since then as well.
 
It's been proven that major factor determining deflection is the endmass of the last 6" of the shaft. For deflection to be significantly reduced over time, the shaft would have to somehow become heavier.... Not likely.
The Z shaft deflects less, because the diameter at the end is smaller. (lighter) Not because it is tapered differently.
The "accuracy" claims are somewhat misleading to the unlearned, there are many factors that make deflection a lot less critical than they would like you to think it is.
The 314 I would call a 'modified pro taper' and the Z a euro, or conical taper.
Are the second generation shafts made overseas now?
 
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great!

Thanks Sheldon
some greenies for you for reading the OP.

So what's the difference between a modified pro taper
and a pro taper?
 
I have a few. Probably first generation. I hope they've improved them since then. Of all the shafts I have, the 314's are the only ones that aren't still straight. They're not even close and I take care of my equipment. The last cue I've bought was in 2001 and it still looks like brand new.
 
Sheldon said:
It's been proven that major factor determining deflection is the endmass of the last 6" of the shaft. For deflection to be significantly reduced over time, the shaft would have to somehow become heavier.... Not likely.
The Z shaft deflects less, because the diameter at the end is smaller. (lighter) Not because it is tapered differently.
The "accuracy" claims are somewhat misleading to the unlearned, there are many factors that make deflection a lot less critical than they would like you to think it is.
The 314 I would call a 'modified pro taper' and the Z a euro, or conical taper.
Are the second generation shafts made overseas now?
Click to expand...

Sheldon, all Predator dowels are made in China and then they are suppose to be finished in the USA. This is when the foam is sprayed down the shaft and the secret Foam filled ferrule is applied. I am uncertain if that has changed, with the new shafts. however, almost the butts are also made their now except for limited editions that are made by other manufactures like Longoni.!!!!

Trust me weight is not the only factor effecting the ability of these shafts to perform. Sheldon, if what has been said about these shafts is true, every shaft would play the same, and the effect would be completely repeatable but this is not the case.
 
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coopdeville said:
.
So what's the difference between a modified pro taper
and a pro taper?
Click to expand...

I think the pro taper is the same diameter as the ferrule for 10 or more inches before it starts increasing diameter profile toward the joint.

The modified pro might be one that only increases the diameter by one two thousands per inch for 10 inches or more toward the joint.

It is hard to feel a 2 thousands per inch taper.
 
good

now we're getting somewhere....
so what do you cue makers use for your tapers?


please respond as I think this is important for
the consumers to know what is used and why.

ps. when I say consumers, I mean me. :D
 
I was going to say something cheeky

Thanks Losos
rep 4 u.
There is a lot of info shared here
I don't know why I thought this would fall into that group.
at least you could be honest and not duck the issue.

edit. ridiculous since anyone with a caliper and access to some
cues can blow the lid off this.
once you sell one, the secret's out

this is dumb
 
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so what do you cue makers use for your tapers?


I prefer a slight taper the first 10 inches then get stiff fast beyond that point.
 
Here's my current favorite:
G01 Y0.
X6.5 Y-.0035
X12.5 Y-.021
X16.5 Y-.038
X20.5 Y-.069
X24.5 Y-.113
X30.5 Y-.173
I only use this if a customer is unsure of the taper they want. So far those that use the above specs are very happy with the results.
 
G01 Y0.
X6.5 Y-.0035
X12.5 Y-.021
X16.5 Y-.038
X20.5 Y-.069
X24.5 Y-.113
X30.5 Y-.173


Thanks, am gonna copy it. :)
 
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