I'm assuming this is on a 9' Diamond. Is that right?Playing 8 ball with the layout given shooting stripes starting with ball in hand. What order do you shoot the balls and path if possible for easiest runout? Thanks.
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I'm assuming this is on a 9' Diamond. Is that right?Playing 8 ball with the layout given shooting stripes starting with ball in hand. What order do you shoot the balls and path if possible for easiest runout? Thanks.
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11 to the 13 could be a little risky with the 3 ball there, forcing you to cut it close or leave more of an angle on the 13 which would not only make for a harder shot but also make positioning on the 14 a little tougher, in which case I guess you could switch up and play the 10 first and save the 14 to set up the 8, which would also work.15,11 ,13 ,14 ,10
...again, The problem here isn't playing shape on the 13 from the 11. It's the assumption that the 13 is going to be potted in the side pocket nearest the 5.11 to the 13 could be a little risky with the 3 ball there, forcing you to cut it close or leave more of an angle on the 13 which would not only make for a harder shot but also make positioning on the 14 a little tougher, in which case I guess you could switch up and play the 10 first and save the 14 to set up the 8, which would also work.
Cornerman guided me to the same conclusion the other day. 2 rails from 11 to 13 has to be the absolute safest way to play the 11 to 13. This is my new 2nd fav pattern since you knocked the 13 last down a notch earlier lol. 13 first just suits my eye and still #1....again, The problem here isn't playing shape on the 13 from the 11. It's the assumption that the 13 is going to be potted in the side pocket nearest the 5.
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I'd personally opt to shoot the 13 in the corner. ...but I also reap the benefit have having an option to shoot it in the bottom side pocket if I over run my shape.
The 3 ball is a complete non-factor in this pattern to the 13. You can upgrade that to a total non-factor throughout the rack, if the key ball is either the 10 or 14.
There's no need.I believe the ball(s) in the middle could be the biggest problem. I guess its all about perspective. Would you mind posting a video of you running the pattern your way? I think we all should do that so we can get a better idea of why a player wants to play it that way.
...again, The problem here isn't playing shape on the 13 from the 11. It's the assumption that the 13 is going to be potted in the side pocket nearest the 5.
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I'd personally opt to shoot the 13 in the corner. ...but I also reap the benefit have having an option to shoot it in the bottom side pocket if I over run my shape.
The 3 ball is a complete non-factor in this pattern to the 13. You can upgrade that to a total non-factor throughout the rack, if the key ball is either the 10 or 14.
I'm only asking because I want to get better at communicating with strangers, but what about my last post gave you the idea I felt attacked?There's no need.
The suggested patterns are fine. As I stated , any competent player can get out starting with any of the balls.
The attempt at humor was completely lost. I see that few here have ever rolled their eyes as their teammate "took the easy ball in the middle".
Lighten up guys. It wasn't an attack.
true but also the 13 has 3 possible pockets to go to after the 1111 to the 13 could be a little risky with the 3 ball there, forcing you to cut it close or leave more of an angle on the 13 which would not only make for a harder shot but also make positioning on the 14 a little tougher, in which case I guess you could switch up and play the 10 first and save the 14 to set up the 8, which would also work.
Sure..., of course in the 15, 11, 13 starting pattern. You still have both the 10 and 14 to bail out the small odds of coming up silly on the 13. Keep in mind my pattern choice has the 14 as the key ball. Not the 10...My issue with it is if you overrun your shape for the corner just a little you're left either moving away from the 14 or going to the lower side and possibly running into the 5 and moving it into the way of the 14...or trying to avoid the 5 and having a tougher time getting shape on the 14. I just feel the target area to land the cue is pretty small to have it work out easily.
Sure but your navigating around both the 3 and 5 to reach the 14 from the 11. Hazards that don't need to be introduced.The area to get on the 14 from the 11 and have a good shot to get on the 10 is huge, so many ways you could play that.
To each there own. I prefer the 13 first versus last approach. With my skill set I'd probably make the 13 key ball the last choice. Followed closely by the 13 first.But for me, the 13 first is still the safest approach to an out and the one that just suits my eye and stroke.
I first asked.Easy, I first asked in the OP was it a left handed shooter.
Probably your sad eyes, dollI'm only asking because I want to get better at communicating with strangers, but what about my last post gave you the idea I felt attacked?
If only there was a rule set that allowed a few do-overs within a rackit was easy to have a shot on the 15 but my speed was alittle off and the angle to have a good angle/shot for the 11 was tough
once i dialed it in the rest of the run out was easier than my first choice
but it took a few tries
The 10 'key ball' seems more intuitive because of it's close proximity to the 8. The reality though is you can very simply hit that 10 ball badly and end up with either no shot or one with high risk of a sewer. That's a non-issue with playing the 14 last. That said, you are relying on potting ability. All players have stronger potting then they do CB control.i also didnt think of the 14 as a key to the 8 and i see why its a viable option
but i still like the 10 as my key ball
AINT THAT THE TRUTH.......If only there was a rule set that allowed a few do-overs within a rack![]()
you convinced me....The 10 'key ball' seems more intuitive because of it's close proximity to the 8. The reality though is you can very simply hit that 10 ball badly and end up with either no shot or one with high risk of a sewer. That's a non-issue with playing the 14 last. That said, you are relying on potting ability. All players have stronger potting then they do CB control.
Playing for shape for the 13 in the far corner as you’ve shown on your diagram is certainly a lot riskier if you’re playing on a Diamond 9’ vs a Diamond 7’. On the big table, everything changes in terms of difficulty on longer shots - in which case you are trying to keep shots as easy as absolutely possible, generally playing balls in the pockets they are closest to. At least that is my thought process....again, The problem here isn't playing shape on the 13 from the 11. It's the assumption that the 13 is going to be potted in the side pocket nearest the 5.
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I'd personally opt to shoot the 13 in the corner. ...but I also reap the benefit have having an option to shoot it in the bottom side pocket if I over run my shape.
The 3 ball is a complete non-factor in this pattern to the 13. You can upgrade that to a total non-factor throughout the rack, if the key ball is either the 10 or 14.
...again, The problem here isn't playing shape on the 13 from the 11. It's the assumption that the 13 is going to be potted in the side pocket nearest the 5.
View attachment 702251
I'd personally opt to shoot the 13 in the corner. ...but I also reap the benefit have having an option to shoot it in the bottom side pocket if I over run my shape.
The 3 ball is a complete non-factor in this pattern to the 13. You can upgrade that to a total non-factor throughout the rack, if the key ball is either the 10 or 14.