Which Glue for Pin Installation

billiardbum

billiardbum

Listen U Might Learn!!!
Silver Member
Just wondering what type of glue you guys are using for Pin Installation? I Did not see any post in the past for this question, just getting opinions. I personally use West Systems, but worried that if the pin gets bent you cannot remove it easily. Thanks for you replys.
 
billiardbum said:
Just wondering what type of glue you guys are using for Pin Installation? I Did not see any post in the past for this question, just getting opinions. I personally use West Systems, but worried that if the pin gets bent you cannot remove it easily. Thanks for you replys.
Click to expand...

I also use two part epoxy, I like the one hour type. This allows you time to the spin the butt in the lathe to make any adjustments to pin before the epoxy hardens. I am currently using Locktite epoxy and I really like, I even think it works better than Devcon.

William
 
bushka said:
I also use two part epoxy, I like the one hour type. This allows you time to the spin the butt in the lathe to make any adjustments to pin before the epoxy hardens. I am currently using Locktite epoxy and I really like, I even think it works better than Devcon.

William
Click to expand...
Which Loctite are you using? I'm using Loctite454 at it activates quickly.
 
Which Glue for Joint Pin?

billiardbum said:
Just wondering what type of glue you guys are using for Pin Installation? I Did not see any post in the past for this question, just getting opinions. I personally use West Systems, but worried that if the pin gets bent you cannot remove it easily. Thanks for you replys.
Click to expand...


I suggest that you use any good 2 part epoxy. I don't think any kind of superglue is appropriate because it hardens too quickly to get good alignment of the pin and it is too brittle. I used it in 2 cues in my early days and had to replace both pins within a few days. I sure was embarrised but it brought me back to earth (ego deflated) :).

As far as removing a bent pin just heat it very slowly with a torch (keeping the flame away from the wood) and remove the pin with a pair of plyers as soon as it gets loose.

Good Luck
 
Last edited:
I like 2 part epoxy also. I use system three mostly, but have used devcon also, and they both seem to hold up from what I can tell. I did have a blowout on My first cue using devcon, but that was probably more on My side then the glue (another lesson learned the hard way). There are also many other brands that work well. I aggree and would not use superglue, but that's just My personal opinion. Even If I wanted to try it, I don't think I could get a pin screwed all the way in If threaded in the joint, that is unless It was one of the slower setting CA's. Eitherway, I would not feel the need to try Myself. Epoxy works fine for Me. A bent pin should be easier to get out then a broken pin, altough may still be no fun to do. With a broken pin you have to take your chances with a soldering iron or something, and that's getting close to the joint and higher risk of melting something you may not want to. It's also harder to get a bite on the pin to unscrew it. If it's broke off flush with the joint, well then It's getting into fun stuff, and even need a good easy-out of some type, or have to notch the end of the pin, unless there is an easier way I don't know about, and that may well be. Greg
 
spotless said:
Which Loctite are you using? I'm using Loctite454 at it activates quickly.
Click to expand...

Hello, I am using Locktite Professional one hour 2 part epoxy. This type is for Wood, Tile, Plastics, metal, and stone. It is very effective, I currently purchase it at Lowes.

William
 
Cue Crazy said:
With a broken pin you have to take your chances with a soldering iron or something, and that's getting close to the joint and higher risk of melting something you may not want to. It's also harder to get a bite on the pin to unscrew it. If it's broke off flush with the joint, well then It's getting into fun stuff, and even need a good easy-out of some type, or have to notch the end of the pin, unless there is an easier way I don't know about, and that may well be. Greg
Click to expand...

If a pin is broke, particulary flush, is it possible to drill into the pin with a small bit, and the drilling the hole heats up the pin enough to melt the epoxy and back it out?

If the question sounds stupid, I refer you to my signature. :D
Kelly
 
Kelly_Guy said:
If a pin is broke, particulary flush, is it possible to drill into the pin with a small bit, and the drilling the hole heats up the pin enough to melt the epoxy and back it out?

If the question sounds stupid, I refer you to my signature. :D
Kelly
Click to expand...

Absolutely. In fact, this is probably the safest and best way to get a pin out. It must be done in a lathe to be safe and not busting the prong up.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
Absolutely. In fact, this is probably the safest and best way to get a pin out. It must be done in a lathe to be safe and not busting the prong up.

Dick
Click to expand...

Thanks Dickie.
Kelly
 
Removing a Broken Pin

rhncue said:
Absolutely. In fact, this is probably the safest and best way to get a pin out. It must be done in a lathe to be safe and not busting the prong up.

Dick
Click to expand...

If the pin is flush I use a Left hand drill bit and feed the bit by pushing against the tail stock with my hand. As the pin gets hot enough to melt the glue the pin unscrews itself. Don't try this with the tail stock locked in place or something will break - using your hand allows it to come out easily.
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
If the pin is flush I use a Left hand drill bit and feed the bit by pushing against the tail stock with my hand. As the pin gets hot enough to melt the glue the pin unscrews itself. Don't try this with the tail stock locked in place or something will break - using your hand allows it to come out easily.
Click to expand...

Thomas Wayne once posted how he does it and it has always worked well for me since there is no need to get the joint to hot which can damage the joint or finish. Just drill a center in the pin and then drill a hole an 1" or 1.5" lower than the joint face into the pin with 1/8 " or so drill bit. You then take the next size larger drill bit and counter sink this original hole to about half the depth of the previous hole. You then take that same drill bit and reverse it in the chuck so that the non fluted end is protruding. You then push the tail stock forward into this hole and with the lathe running in reverse put a little pressure against the back of the tailstock. This then causes friction between the drill bit stem and the hole causing them both to heat up and melt the glue. As soon as you see the drill bit turning red from the heat just release the pressure on the back of the chuck, this will let the drill bit and pin cool down and weld themselves together. Since the lathe is running in reverse the pin will just unscrew itself from the prong. Needless to say this drill bit is shot since it is now welded to the pin but they only cost 50 cents or so and is a cheap price to pay to make an agravating job simple.

Dick
 
Thanks for Pointing that out Kelly, Good info here, Personally I have only run accross a couple broke off flush, altough seems like I turned a few away before I was willing to try. I guess I was'nt causing enough friction when I drilled to heat it up, so I noticed no glue melt down during drilling. I suppose I was worried about tightening the pin up more & splitting something, or heating the joint up too much, so I took It slow and easy with forward drilling, and after heating, reverse with something that I used as an easy-out (not sure that's what it was because I did'nt have a set at the time, so probably was something like a left hand bit, just something I had laying around that I used as one, and backed the pin out), Common sense should had told Me the iron was the same difference, and actually the heat probably does'nt penetrate as well as smoking a bit up in a deeper hole.

I especially like the welded bit, reversal thing, makes me want to stick a good pin in a piece of scrap, cut it with a hacksaw, and see if I can pull that one off. that would be nice trick for the next time one comes around, maybe then I won't be so scared to take it on.

Will These work the same with brass & alloys though? I don't even want to guess how to get a glass pin out. Thanks Greg C
 
You can use a easy-out and stick it in the hole that you drill into the broken screw and heat with a propane torch and screw the broken pin right out. With a standard set of easy0outs it will tell you what size hole to drill for the easy-out.
 
Last edited:
billiardbum said:
Just wondering what type of glue you guys are using for Pin Installation? I Did not see any post in the past for this question, just getting opinions. I personally use West Systems, but worried that if the pin gets bent you cannot remove it easily. Thanks for you replys.
Click to expand...

I like T-88 for pins (and ferrules). I use West for just about everything else.
 
bushka said:
Hello, I am using Locktite Professional one hour 2 part epoxy. This type is for Wood, Tile, Plastics, metal, and stone. It is very effective, I currently purchase it at Lowes.

William
Click to expand...
I shall try that tomorrow Thanks!
 
My experience with Loctite epoxy was horrible.

I decided to buy a few of their double tube syringe style at the hardware store to give them a try. I bought both the 5 minute, the 6 minute "gel type", and their overnight version. I had been using the Devcon brand for years up until that point and never had a problem with it. This hardware store I went to that time only had Titebond.

I hated the tubes they came in. In order to squeeze out the epoxy and the hardener evenly, I would always push on the applicator and aim the tubes at a scrap section of my mixing paper, until both the A and B parts flowed out evenly. This takes out any air. Then I would aim to a different spot of my mixing paper and push on the applicator and the mixture would come out perfectly. With the Titebod, to take out the air, I would have to push for quite a while compared to the Devcon brand before both the A and B parts would both flow out evenly.

The cap for the tubes is tiny on the Titebond. It is hard to hold onto, and hard to tell which direction it goes on. In contrast, the Devcon is very large and has a V shape to it so you know exactly which way to put it on.

Also, when I would finish with the epoxy, I pull up on the syringe to suck the glue away from the ends of the holes on each tube. This would keep the end clean for me to put the cap back on. With the Devcon, this works great, but with the Titebond, it never worked that well.

Finally, and most important to the glue performance, the Titebond I had would not harden completely. The glue left over on my mixing paper would not be fully hardened, even days after. I could dig my fingernail into it. The Devcon would harden completely. Maybe I got a bad batch of the Titebond, I don't know. But because of its tube shortcomings I won't try another batch of it. In fact I threw out all 3 tubes of it that I had bought event though they were barely used. That is how much I liked the product.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top