AzB Silver Member
I just talked with him . His Voice Mail is the problem & he is working that problem. My phone number is 918-637-1056. If you''ll text me your number, I'll have him call you.
As mentioned, Proficient Billiards. Just tell them you want a standard pro taper to a 12.5mm. I would ask around locally to find someone and save the cost and time in shipping but if you don't live in or near a larger city it may not work out for you.Bro…. I don’t care about anything other than taking my shaft perfectly to 12.5mm in a pro taper shape!! You got a dude?
The one I’m currently playing with is a Hammond cue and my main player is a Zinzola #26 (first one in the collection with his signature ring work)We can adjust to all kinds of things but that doesn't mean we are happy with the way they hit or feel after the alteration. Better know just how you want it cut, how long a taper, how fast a taper, diameter at the tip, etc. Once it is cut down there is no going back! Unfortunately just buying a new shaft gives no guarantees as well. I have three Rich Chudy shafts for one of his cues. They are all done the same way by him. One hits like no other shaft I have ever owned. It is awesome. The other two are good but nothing like the third one. I have no idea why that is!!
But the point is be sure what you want as there is no going back once it is done. If buying a new shaft and the trim doesn't match the butt section but it is a great hitting shaft, I wouldn't care.
On the other hand, playing with a cue that has a pro taper would always be a plus over one that does not regardless of how really great the hit is. It is just more comfortable to use. I do wonder what kind of cue you have as I don't see any better quality (even less expensive production) cues that don't already have a pro taper when you buy them. Anyway, that's just some thoughts on the matter to cover some of the bases.
It's amazing how little warp to the eye a shaft needs to have before reducing it with a cutter between centers is not an option to end up round. Lots of old but perfectly playable shafts fall in this realm. Make sure the shaft has enough meat on it for what you want to do if it has any runout at all. Ask me how I know this.I don't recall implying that.
Sanding is never going to be as precise as a high speed cutter in a CNC or a lathe. Depending on how hard your ferrule is, you can end up with varying diameter real fast if you are sanding. Some shafts can have certain spots in them that vary in hardness, and sanding can end up taking more or less off in those areas.
Would possibly getting a partial shaft and sending it off to get it to the taper you want, as well as the matching ring work.It’s a custom with beautiful ring work in the joint that I want to match the butt end.
I highly doubt Guido would charge $200 to retaper a shaft. He charged me $350 to refurbish an entire cue which included refacing the joints, ivory ferrule, new layered tip, refinishing the butt, new bumper and new linen wrap. His website says a taper change is $20-40. A new shaft from him costs $125-350 depending on what it is. I just spoke to him the other day and am getting ready to send a cue out to him have an extra LD made for it.Guido said he would be glad to do the job for $200, with paid shipping & Insurance back to you. You'll need to send the Cue, so he can measure it & make sure there is enough material for the job to be done correctly
Yeah, for sure. I almost added a disclaimer to my original post in this thread that the shaft has to be straight. Otherwise you get a shaft that is no longer round!It's amazing how little warp to the eye a shaft needs to have before reducing it with a cutter between centers is not an option to end up round. Lots of old but perfectly playable shafts fall in this realm. Make sure the shaft has enough meat on it for what you want to do if it has any runout at all. Ask me how I know this.