What is going on here??????? I am having the hardest time on my draw shots. Ive been losing some good games because I cant draw the cue. I dont know what the problem is. I always aim low and try to follow through as much as possible but it doesnt draw. When i try to draw the cue most of the time it ends up just being a stop shot. I mean it is a pretty good stop shot but its not what I want. The very few times that I can get the cue to draw I usually elevate the butt like 3 or 4 inches and it draws pretty much where i want it but its not consistent. What is do you think i am doing wrong. I know it is hard to assess the problem because you cant watch my stroke but based on my description what do you think the problem is????? Do you think I need to follow through more?????? I need you help
Why wont the ball draw???????
- Thread starter NOSAJ03
- Start date
Stay down on the shot, I don't know if you do or not, but that helps so much. Staying still is the key to potting most tough long shots and screw shots, if everything stays in place, it limits problems.
S
Sputnik
Guest
Skidmarks on the cloth at the follow through
Why won't the ball draw???
Hi,
I assume you are relatively new to the game of pocket billiards. Regardless, draw is all in the stroke. If you elevate the butt of the cue and still not draw the cue ball, here is a suggestion!
When you finish stroking the cue ball, look to see where the tip of the cue is. If the tip is pretty much where the cue ball was, you punched the shot. If the tip is a foot or so past the former cue ball location and you still didn't draw the ball, ask your pool room cue person to change the hardness of the cue tip. A tip that is softer will allow you to draw the ball more, all other things being equal. The problem is a soft tip will also apply more "english" to the cue ball. If you're just beginning, the less "english", side spin, etc, the better.
If you are located in the Northeast US, contact Joe Tucker in Providence, RI. He is a great instructor.
Hi,
I assume you are relatively new to the game of pocket billiards. Regardless, draw is all in the stroke. If you elevate the butt of the cue and still not draw the cue ball, here is a suggestion!
When you finish stroking the cue ball, look to see where the tip of the cue is. If the tip is pretty much where the cue ball was, you punched the shot. If the tip is a foot or so past the former cue ball location and you still didn't draw the ball, ask your pool room cue person to change the hardness of the cue tip. A tip that is softer will allow you to draw the ball more, all other things being equal. The problem is a soft tip will also apply more "english" to the cue ball. If you're just beginning, the less "english", side spin, etc, the better.
If you are located in the Northeast US, contact Joe Tucker in Providence, RI. He is a great instructor.
One more thing you might want to check out is your bridge hand. If you are raising and lowering the back of the cue to draw, stop and follow, this is incorrect imo. You should use your bridge hand to determine draw, stop or follow. The only times you should raise the butt of your cue is to:
1. Masse'
2. Jump
3. or if you're up against a wall and you have no other choice.
4. Fast Larry can tell you about the reasons for trick shots.
1. Masse'
2. Jump
3. or if you're up against a wall and you have no other choice.
4. Fast Larry can tell you about the reasons for trick shots.
Loosen your wrist.
Aim the top of the tip to the lower half of the cb.
If your holding your cue too forward, grip more to the back.
Aim the top of the tip to the lower half of the cb.
If your holding your cue too forward, grip more to the back.
Why won't the ball draw??
Hi,
I forgot to mention the shape of the tip is also very important. Take a nickel and hold it near the tip. If the tip is flatter than a nickel, have it reshaped by your pool room repair person. If your tip is flat. Stop what your doing and have it reshaped immediately! If not, you will be wasting lots of your practice time and effort.
Hi,
I forgot to mention the shape of the tip is also very important. Take a nickel and hold it near the tip. If the tip is flatter than a nickel, have it reshaped by your pool room repair person. If your tip is flat. Stop what your doing and have it reshaped immediately! If not, you will be wasting lots of your practice time and effort.
Re: Re: Why wont the ball draw???????
I think that I know what you mean. Our sl4 lost a crucial match because he cannot draw. this left him long and hard on the shot before the eight. A simple draw would have left him easy on that shot.
I have trouble with the 'low and level draw' and use that when stretching across the table only. The rest of the time, I use the 'chop down draw'. This brings back the ball 1-2 diamonds. One diamond if struck at lag speed, 2 diamonds if struck a little harder. I have not yet been able to do a table length draw.
Laura
fast larry said:I have been trying to tell you all for some time, that teaching method is all wrong and it does not work. Fast Larry Guninger
I think that I know what you mean. Our sl4 lost a crucial match because he cannot draw. this left him long and hard on the shot before the eight. A simple draw would have left him easy on that shot.
I have trouble with the 'low and level draw' and use that when stretching across the table only. The rest of the time, I use the 'chop down draw'. This brings back the ball 1-2 diamonds. One diamond if struck at lag speed, 2 diamonds if struck a little harder. I have not yet been able to do a table length draw.
Laura
NOSAJ03 said:
1,,,how far is your bridge from the CB?
2,,,the CB DOESN'T LIE. you are not hitting it where you think you are. if your bridge is long (i'd say over 10"), the tip might be high by the time it gets there.
3,,,your timing might be bad. you might be hitting the CB too early or too late in your stroke.
4,,,get someone to look at your stroke when you shoot.
S
Sputnik
Guest
Skidmarks on the cloth at the follow through. Be it s soft (using only the weight of the cuestick) or a forceful stroke, get that cue tip to plow the cloth at the follow through. Skidmarks.
I've said it a thousand times and in my opinion it is the best way to learn draw or follows. Take a striped ball and aline it so that the stripe is perfectly horizontal. Same amount of white at the top and the same amount of white at the bottom. Chalk up real good and make sure the ball is perfectly clean of all chalk marks. NOw using a level cue, not raised butt, and a lower closed bridge, with your index finger forming a closed loop over the cue, and with a good confident stroke, try to hit right where the stripe meets the white on the lower half of the ball. After you hit it take the striped ball and see where the tip actually hit. There should be a chalk mark on the centre of where the white meats the colored stripe. If the chalk marks isnt there you arent hitting low enough. Just keep practiceing like this until you have it perfected, cleaning the ball and chalking your tip after each shot. Once you can draw a little all it takes is confidence to make it draw alot.
N
Number1
Guest
Hi Larry, because you're raising your cue 
L
locki
Guest
use the loop bridge when drawing, also, dont mind even if your cew scratches on the cloth. hit the ball very low, look for that spot where the ball wont jump up when you hit it low. dont elevate the cue, it will only lessen the spin. dont hit the ball too hard, some players who hit the ball too hard isnt actually hitting the bottom of the ball, but somewhere below the center.
N
Number1
Guest
Yes, don't do that as you risk missing the pot.
OK Larry question:
If I(like most good players) can draw two lengths of the table or whatever using the correct technique of low cue parellel to the table then why do I need to raise the cue dramatically increasing the probability of missing the shot?
Anyone can draw by jacking the cue up but this doesn't mean its the right thing to do. Whats the point of being able to draw if you miss more pots?
OK Larry question:
If I(like most good players) can draw two lengths of the table or whatever using the correct technique of low cue parellel to the table then why do I need to raise the cue dramatically increasing the probability of missing the shot?
Anyone can draw by jacking the cue up but this doesn't mean its the right thing to do. Whats the point of being able to draw if you miss more pots?
S
Sputnik
Guest
Elevated shots are relatives of the masse - a very instinctive shot that relies only in estimation. When you elevate the cuestick, you will automatically push the white ball against the table slate, thus making it jump (which many times cannot be seen by the naked eye) and produce inferior potting.
The ball can be drawn in that manner, why not. But the idea is to apply a shot that will not have friction against the slate - only against the cloth so as not to compromise accuracy. This is done by having the cue tip access the lower slope of the cue ball and pushing it so the cue ball starts spinning as it leaves its position.
Don't slam it - push it, with the cue stick as parallel to the table as possible - and follow through with your cue tip skidding on the cloth. Skid marks always work with soft or forceful shots.
The ball can be drawn in that manner, why not. But the idea is to apply a shot that will not have friction against the slate - only against the cloth so as not to compromise accuracy. This is done by having the cue tip access the lower slope of the cue ball and pushing it so the cue ball starts spinning as it leaves its position.
Don't slam it - push it, with the cue stick as parallel to the table as possible - and follow through with your cue tip skidding on the cloth. Skid marks always work with soft or forceful shots.
N
Number1
Guest
I don't think anyone doubts the fact that if you jack the cue up you have more chance of swerving the white ball and hence missing the pot. Sure you can get very good at it and may do it very rarely but you are still increasing the probability of missing the pot.
My point is why do you need to do that, or more importantly why teach that as "the way to draw" when clearly there's very few times when you can't do what you want to do by using the standard technique (eg level cue)
Although it sounds very impressive larry, I honestly can't remember ever having to play position by drawing the ball 4 table lengths?
If you think about you should never need to draw the ball more than two lengths and then only in extreeme circumstances?
My point is why do you need to do that, or more importantly why teach that as "the way to draw" when clearly there's very few times when you can't do what you want to do by using the standard technique (eg level cue)
Although it sounds very impressive larry, I honestly can't remember ever having to play position by drawing the ball 4 table lengths?
If you think about you should never need to draw the ball more than two lengths and then only in extreeme circumstances?
N
Number1
Guest
As a side note, larry don't get upset and I don't blame you if you don't get drawn into this. But it would be good if would could have a sensible debate on the matter, I think we may all even be able to agree! )
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