I had answers, but I'm going to just pass.
Freddie <~~~ stepping away from the keyboard
All Finishes Pros and Cons
- Thread starter cueman
- Start date
I had answers, but I'm going to just pass.
Freddie <~~~ stepping away from the keyboard
FYI,
Implode would suggest a hyperbaric environment not one that is a rarefied air environment.:thumbup:
Just Saying
Sorry, I'm not a demolition man.
That makes a lot of sense.
Must be why it's so good in closing cuts and wounds.
I'm gonna be a boxing cut man now.
" Avatene? Coagulant ? Who needs that? Here ya go, super glue."
I believe it's the water content in the wood that it reacts to. I'm not debating whether or not it seals oily wood, but moisture acts as a catalyst.
So, you're saying they need a sauna before CA coat?
If it seals oily woods real well, no need to bath them in acetone.
Just let the CA do it's thing.
I know you probably not willing to share your knowledge but if you are I'm all ears. And would be very thankful. Thinking of switching to a UV but I think I would be happier with your method. I've seen your cues and you do a nice job.
Sent from my LG-K450 using Tapatalk
Well, a differential in air pressure can cause an implosion, such as dropping an incandescent or fluorescent bulb on the floor...
i am not sure what the 30000 feet implosion is talking about. But i once sent a cue to japan that was super glue finished around twenty years ago. That cue got sent back to me as the finish cracked sideways across the cue and separated to create about a 1/16 inch gap while in the air. It only happened once but that was the weirdest thing.
I'm saying that all the woods we use have moisture in them. Wood is "supposed" to be moistened before using Gorilla Glue, but I've never had issues with it without wetting while coring...
Because the presence of moisture causes the glue to set, exposure to normal levels of humidity in the air causes a thin skin to start to form within seconds, which very greatly slows the reaction. Because of this cyanoacrylate is applied thinly, to ensure that the reaction proceeds rapidly for bonding.
It's also why Kamui suggests you blow on a clear.
Or hitting a 36 inch CRT with a sledge hammer...:grin-square:
I have never wet anything I glued with GG............. never had a problem..............
Kim
Yes.. that's my point. Typically, the moisture content in the wood is enough when coring. I've never used GG for anything else, so I can't comment..
LOL... We replaced all 32 CRT monitors at the bowling alley with LED flat panel displays. We called a lot of scrap places to take the CRTs, but they only wanted the metal housings and the circuit boards. So I took sledgehammer to all the tubes. Great stress reliever, and better than bubble wrap!
JC
Coos Cues
I was talking to an industrial chemist, he said that the alternate layers as we call it of oil and super glue mixed together, effectively make a CA varnish with the linking of the chains as it is rubbed and mixed in thin layers. He said if done correctly it can become a monolithic coating. He was quite excited and said he never thought about creating a product that is created as you use it.
Neil
Neil
Did he say what kind of oil?
Wood expands when wet of course.
Then that dowel will get stuck as you know.
The easy way to do it is to run a dowel in there with the GG all over already.
Once the sleeve AND the dowel have a coat of the glue ( NO BARE WOOD left ), spray a little mist on the dowel.
If you are coring a burl wood, you need that expansion.
Or any porous and soft wood for that matter.
He said any oil that mixes with the glue and allows it to set through. A simple test is to put some oil on a tissue or what ever. then drop some super glue on one side. Rub that side the glue was put on and see if the oil on the other side of the paper towel sets the same as the oil on the top side. If it does, the 2 have mixed and it makes a new compound. He said that toughened or thickened Ca's will behave slightly differently, in that the outcome or the resultant product will have different properties.
I have known this guy for many years and he has created paints, varnishes, and coatings for the inside of oil tanks. I believe what he is telling me is chemically correct. I asked about will it yellow over time. He thought some oils will make it yellow over time while others won't. When I asked what could I use that would not yellow, he said, do some test's leave them in a sunny spot over a year and leave the other sample in a dark, seal box. The suggestion was to try a clear oil to start with that does not yellow over time.
I found an oil that I was happy with quite a few years ago and just use that.
Neil