I would tend to disagree. First, if what you were saying is true than most 3CB players would never make a ball, in a sport that accuracy of cue ball striking is of utmost importance. Second, if the tip is positioned within 1" or so of the cue ball before striking than the diameter change from there to contact, even on a straight taper such as a house cue, is only about .012". Halve this for the movement on one side of your bridge and you get .006". There are not many shots your going to miss by moving your OB contact point .006". Take a shaft with a more parabolic taper and that number may be even lower than .001" depending on bridge length. How much the shaft rises after you hit the ball is irrelevant except from a personal comfort point of view and that is something open to change. If your theory was correct than how could anyone make a ball with a house cue as they generally have the fastest rate of rise? Like most other parts of pool and aiming at some point if your paying attention to what is happening your brain will adjust your aiming point to where you make the ball instead of missing so any movement, such as your talking, makes no difference anyway, you simply move your intended aiming point until the ball gets pocketed.
Kilby was the one I turned to to test my laminated shafts many years ago. I created different shafts that he put his unique taper on to see which version created the most power. As Ron states, vibration is wasted power. For my 2cents worth, the cue should go through the cue ball, not buckle like a noodle and the amount of "work", as I call it, is the first thing I look for in my finished cues. I am looking for how much energy is lost or gained while striking the CB.
Bob Danielson
www.bdcuesandcomix.com
The OB Classic Pro is conically tapered starting at 11.8 and going up .10 mm for at least the first few inches then increase to 13.4 mm at 10". To me, that's a conical taper.
