Room Size - What Would You Do?

Cornerman

Cornerman

Cue Author...Sometimes
Gold Member
Silver Member
I didn't want to hijack the other amusing Room Size question, so I'm starting my own.

My previous table was (well, technically still is) a 7' that's actually smaller than a bar table 7'. The room I have it in is smaller than the ideal size, but I had some semblance of stroke (the room is smaller than the 17' x 13'10" that I would have liked to have had).

At the time, the choice was no table or a small table with tight stroke conditions, so it was an obvious choice.

Now I am in the middle of home purchase down here in FL, and the room in question is at 14' 3" width (>22" in length), which is less than my ideal minimum of 14' 10" for the width. If it were, say, 14' 6", it would be a no brainer for me: slightly tight, but nothing that would prevent me from getting that 9' Diamond.

However, at 14' 3", I'm at that crazy decision of 8' table with ideal minimum of 6" stroke or 9' table that for sure will be tight. I'm actually already asking a cue maker to make a loaded cue butt that would copy the balance of a normal 58" cue, but only end up being 52".

What would YOU do?

Freddie <~~~ could have worse troubles
 
T

The Kiss

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Move a wall if you can or take a wall out and put in a laminated carry beam problem solved.
 
Rip

Rip

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Cornerman said:
I didn't want to hijack the other amusing Room Size question, so I'm starting my own.

My previous table was (well, technically still is) a 7' that's actually smaller than a bar table 7'. The room I have it in is smaller than the ideal size, but I had some semblance of stroke (the room is smaller than the 17' x 13'10" that I would have liked to have had).

At the time, the choice was no table or a small table with tight stroke conditions, so it was an obvious choice.

Now I am in the middle of home purchase down here in FL, and the room in question is at 14' 3" width (>22" in length), which is less than my ideal minimum of 14' 10" for the width. If it were, say, 14' 6", it would be a no brainer for me: slightly tight, but nothing that would prevent me from getting that 9' Diamond.

However, at 14' 3", I'm at that crazy decision of 8' table with ideal minimum of 6" stroke or 9' table that for sure will be tight. I'm actually already asking a cue maker to make a loaded cue butt that would copy the balance of a normal 58" cue, but only end up being 52".

What would YOU do?

Freddie <~~~ could have worse troubles
Click to expand...

Freddie, I wouldn't be concerned with the 14' 3" width. I'd be very worried about the 22 inch length! :sorry: YIKES!
 
Houstoer

Houstoer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I had the same problem. My room is 14'3" wide. I could not stroke a 9 footer on there so went with the 8' table. No problems with any shot and its nice and comfortable. I wanted a 9' GC bad but when I thought about jacking up all the time etc figured it would be more frustrating than its worth. I'm happy with the 8' and plenty room around.
 
P

Petros Andrikop

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You might want to think about using it as a practice table, giving up some space from one side so that you can practice all kinds of shots from the other one.
My home table is placed like that.
Petros
 
chevybob20

chevybob20

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a 9 ft table. From the wall to the cushion nose is 5' 3.5". I have never had an issue nor has any of my guests. Anything less and you will have space problems. It is close.
 
A

AtLarge

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
If nothing can be done about one of the walls ...

I'd buy the 9-footer and place it so cushion noses are 64" to the wall on one side and 57" to the wall on the other side.

That will give you space for all shots with a full-length cue on one side. On the other side, you'll still be able to use a full-length cue for many of the shots, but could resort to a shorter stick for the others.
 
Matt Tatum

Matt Tatum

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I would reconsider the room or go smaller on the table......... not enough room, and its just not worth your time and money. take a friend and a tape measure to a pool hall and youll see how close it is
 
Schwinn

Schwinn

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Man, Florida is rough house shopping for pool table space. I personally would get a 7 foot diamond.
 
9andout

9andout

Gunnin' for a 3 pack!!
Silver Member
TX Poolnut said:
Nothing must stand between a man and his billiards. The wall must go.
Click to expand...
I did MAJOR work to make room for my 9' Diamond. Bearing walls, beams, new footers etc. (Posted before)
Took me a while. Get to work. Get it done. It's worth it! :thumbup:
 
TX Poolnut

TX Poolnut

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
9andout said:
I did MAJOR work to make room for my 9' Diamond. Bearing walls, beams, new footers etc. (Posted before)
Took me a while. Get to work. Get it done. It's worth it! :thumbup:
Click to expand...

I took almost three months trying to find a home that could house a nine footer. It was worth the wait.
 
iusedtoberich

iusedtoberich

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What does your stance look like? Is your rear foot well behind the butt of the cue on most shots? If so, you will want even more room.
 
ShootingArts

ShootingArts

Smorg is giving St Peter the 7!
Gold Member
Silver Member
offsetting like this would be my thought too

AtLarge said:
If nothing can be done about one of the walls ...

I'd buy the 9-footer and place it so cushion noses are 64" to the wall on one side and 57" to the wall on the other side.

That will give you space for all shots with a full-length cue on one side. On the other side, you'll still be able to use a full-length cue for many of the shots, but could resort to a shorter stick for the others.
Click to expand...


Offsetting like this would be my thought too. Of course interior walls don't need covering on both sides for anything but decoration anyway. I'm sure your significant other will understand you having to knock down the sheetrock or paneling to get an important extra four inches except when a stud is in the way!

Been might near a hunnert years but I owned an eight foot table. Neither fish nor fowl, I can't imagine owning another unless it comes with a house or something like that. Unlike Valleys and big tables the seven foot diamond plays just like a nine footer. I think I'd do some high level cyphering to figure out the pocket size reduction to have the same difficulty playing on the seven footer as a tournament nine and put in the seven footer unless going with the offset nine footer.

Hu
 
S

suharsh

Registered
I have a similar problem having moved form 8-ft to 9-ft. I had people come in and check if I could find move any wall but it was not recommended to. The problem for me is only in one quadrant and some area only. So either I use a shorter cue or just move the cue ball up in the same line as otherwise. I personally don't mind these small adjustments.

If I am practicing or working on drills then I just keep away from the area that is troublesome.
 
M

Mikjary

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've got a 9 footer in a room where there is a fireplace. The walls are 14'5 1/2" and 2 inches less at the fireplace. I jack up slightly when I shoot a frozen cue ball straight across the table, which is rare. I don't even think twice about it. I would never have gone with an 8 footer for a couple of inches.

A weighted cue feels exactly like a regular cue unless you hold it at the end of the butt. You could go with one of these, but from my experience, the 9 footer is absolutely the way to go.

I'm a contractor and quite capable of moving a wall, but after playing on the table with less than ideal dimensions, I didn't bother. I stopped thinking about it after the first few times I played. Not a big deal.

Best,
Mike
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top