I think you have to use ms paint or something to add the lines after saving the image.
How to Play This Pattern?
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I think you have to use ms paint or something to add the lines after saving the image.
Thank you. I feel like a dumbass now. I Should have read the thread closer.
Hah! No need for that, easy to miss.
Don't have time to read all the replies, so apologies if someone has said this exact thing already.
When precise distance control is required, I will never draw the ball if I don't have to. If you think about the worst case scenarios here, the most likely ones are that you either a) overrun position. leaving yourself a very thin cut on the 2; b) you end up straight on the 2 and frozen to the rail. To avoid those two scenarios, you need pretty precise distance control, and draw is too unpredictable even for very experienced players.
I either follow two rails with inside or just follow directly between the 8 and 2. I think the percentage is in shooting right through the gap, but it really depends on how familiar you are with the table. I kind of adhere to the old road player mindset that unfamiliar cushions are kind of like unfamiliar dogs; the only way to be sure you don't get bit is by avoiding them whenever possible.
Aaron
When precise distance control is required, I will never draw the ball if I don't have to. If you think about the worst case scenarios here, the most likely ones are that you either a) overrun position. leaving yourself a very thin cut on the 2; b) you end up straight on the 2 and frozen to the rail. To avoid those two scenarios, you need pretty precise distance control, and draw is too unpredictable even for very experienced players.
I either follow two rails with inside or just follow directly between the 8 and 2. I think the percentage is in shooting right through the gap, but it really depends on how familiar you are with the table. I kind of adhere to the old road player mindset that unfamiliar cushions are kind of like unfamiliar dogs; the only way to be sure you don't get bit is by avoiding them whenever possible.
Aaron
So a quick question from a beginner - all the posts I read have the shooter trying to get shape on the 2-ball to the lower corner (using either follow or draw on the 1-ball) - which was my first inclination too (I was thinking using follow). But then looking closer, why not shoot the 1 with follow to the top corner - almost straight in, follow roughly 1 diamond, setting up 2-ball for the lower side pocket? This sets up naturally (with follow) for 3 and the rest seems pretty straightforward. If can get speed right, it seems that the shapes are easier to attain as a whole.
I guess the question is, is the margin for error trying to get speed for 1 diamond follow shot so much higher than getting angle for 2 for low corner pocket? Or is it that shooting the 2 into side pocket is much lower percentage shot so taking a seemingly harder shot (and by harder I mean to get good shape on the 2) makes more sense?
Thanks!
I guess the question is, is the margin for error trying to get speed for 1 diamond follow shot so much higher than getting angle for 2 for low corner pocket? Or is it that shooting the 2 into side pocket is much lower percentage shot so taking a seemingly harder shot (and by harder I mean to get good shape on the 2) makes more sense?
Thanks!
Old Nine Baller
Banned
This. Remember that you not only have to make the 2 but you need shapes on the 3 also. No player would ever shoot the 2 in the side in this layout.
ONB
Exactly, Like playing for an under the rack secondary break shot in 14.1
I no can speak for others' input, but I took the 'half table drill' to mean that only pocket options are these in the picture (half table).
But I hear you re: using the other end. As those whom I play with can tell you, nary a set goes by without me stating my appreciation and sheer joy that they chose to put 6 pockets on pool tables
.
I just set it up and sho tit a couple times.
I originally thought I'd shoot the 1 in the top L) pictured pocket and cb a tad higher off far L) rail, going 2 rails for shape.
I had an easier time starting with cb lower than the 1, following straight for shape on the 2.
When do we start discussing proper shape on the 3?
a couple times.I originally thought I'd shoot the 1 in the top L) pictured pocket and cb a tad higher off far L) rail, going 2 rails for shape.
I had an easier time starting with cb lower than the 1, following straight for shape on the 2.
When do we start discussing proper shape on the 3
?
I'm confused why everyone is trying to shape up on the 2 ball here. There is only one ball that you need to worry about, that is the 2 ball. 2 ball lower corner roll up between the 4 and the 3. 4 ball side stop. 3 ball lower corner rolling up slightly for slight angle 1 ball. 1 ball past 8 and your out.
What game are you playing?
I just set it up and sho tit
I originally thought I'd shoot the 1 in the top L) pictured pocket and cb a tad higher off far L) rail, going 2 rails for shape.
I had an easier time starting with cb lower than the 1, following straight for shape on the 2.
When do we start discussing proper shape on the 3
As straight as possible, favoring the high side. This is also another reason why it is best to get an angle above the 2. Floating across from under the 2 runs perpendicular to the position on the 3 making your landing area much smaller. Going to the bottom rail from the 2 gives you nearly half a table to get shape on the 3 because the cue ball path roughly follows the shot line.
But if the lower left pocket were blocked they might try for the side as the only option with a plan to play safe if things don't go perfectly.
To answer the question a little more directly, take ball in hand on the 2 for a shot to the side and see how much margin in cue ball placement you have to be able to get on the 3. The path of the cue ball from the 1 will be crossing the line of perfect position to the side on the 2. On the other hand, if you end up short of the side position you might have a shot to the lower right corner (not shown).
snip
When do we start discussing proper shape on the 3
As soon as I can comfortably get shape on the two lol.
Remember though, this is a pattern pocketing drill. Same as playing the ghost, as soon as I play a safe or miss I lose (reset the pattern).
Further, the pockets on my table are frighteningly tight, and leaving a shot for the 2 in the side from that position would likely be fatal.
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It's neither. It's a pocketing drill. Half table progressive pocketing drill to be precise, so you gotta start with the 1.
OP...lots of good advice offered here.
Much comes from the perspective of years of experience and knowledge. Those opinions vary and are formed by the ability to execute when needed, choosing between available options.
Recognizing the pattern is good visualization.
Making it happen means you have to make choices among your proven arsenal of reliable shots.
So, you have to have confidence in those shots. So you have to practice a variety of shots until you don't think about them...you just do them when it counts.
For this layout, consider placing a piece of chalk at or near the spot you want to be after rolling forward going from the 1 to the 2 ball position. Seeing the path the cb takes with varying amounts of slight cut angle gives you the info you need to set up BIH for this rolling ball choice.
Gotta put in the work..whole lotta misses and mishits add up to needed feedback and success..but takes time.
Good thread, and thanks for bringing up the topic...shows long time players differ in opinions...maybe there's more than one situational 'right' play.
...btw, I blew a 3 ball BIH situation last night playing 9ball.(made 2 out of 3) ...not the first time, won't be the last time...
Much comes from the perspective of years of experience and knowledge. Those opinions vary and are formed by the ability to execute when needed, choosing between available options.
Recognizing the pattern is good visualization.
Making it happen means you have to make choices among your proven arsenal of reliable shots.
So, you have to have confidence in those shots. So you have to practice a variety of shots until you don't think about them...you just do them when it counts.
For this layout, consider placing a piece of chalk at or near the spot you want to be after rolling forward going from the 1 to the 2 ball position. Seeing the path the cb takes with varying amounts of slight cut angle gives you the info you need to set up BIH for this rolling ball choice.
Gotta put in the work..whole lotta misses and mishits add up to needed feedback and success..but takes time.
Good thread, and thanks for bringing up the topic...shows long time players differ in opinions...maybe there's more than one situational 'right' play.
...btw, I blew a 3 ball BIH situation last night playing 9ball.(made 2 out of 3)
...not the first time, won't be the last time...
For "my" game today, I'd play the 1 low left corner w/ draw taking advantage of a much larger window as compared to follow. And this is why - for "my" game:
Going with the alternate option of follow on the 1 to top left... I sometimes underestimate what I call the "collision rebound affect of follow". And I fear nicking the 2 ball in that narrow window.
Good thread. I need to find Dr Daves slow-mo video on that.
Going with the alternate option of follow on the 1 to top left... I sometimes underestimate what I call the "collision rebound affect of follow". And I fear nicking the 2 ball in that narrow window.
Good thread. I need to find Dr Daves slow-mo video on that.