My 9' is in a 15'4''x19'4'' and I have plenty of room. There is no way I can touch the wall from anywhere on the table.
16x20 room for 9 ft table?
- Thread starter zach12345
- Start date
I could have gone with a 9' table but passed on the idea. My room is exactly 14' 2" x 21' 8". My table is only an oversize 8', but it feels a bit claustrophobic at times in my room. Take away another inch of clearance on each side to make it 14' even and it would be very unpleasant to play on a 9' table in there. If you are using a 59" cue then you will have zero room to swing the cue if you are froze on the rail and have to shoot across the table. It happens often enough.
I have two chairs and a small table at the far end of the room. You won't get hit with a cue butt while sitting there, but players who come over and play for the first time keep looking back when they're getting ready to break because they feel they're too close to you. I decided we would break from the other end, but now you have a guy breaking at what feels like 90 MPH straight at you. Makes you flinch for sure.
Then there's stance issues as mentioned above. I remember watching the "Make It Happen" One-Pocket event last summer and one player (I think it was Shannon) had that issue several times with a kick board along the spectator tables that was too close to the playing table, and it really seemed to throw him off his game. I've got stumps for legs, so at least I don't have that problem.
One more thing to consider is how the room feels just walking around the table and getting into your PSR. I use to crowd the table all the time, but now I've been trying to get back about three feet and step into the shot from there. I'm a big dude, and it's pretty hard to get three feet away without bumping into the wall with my stick, my upper body, or my ass if I'm bending down to sight a shot. An extra foot all around and I probably would never even notice the wall. But put a 9' Diamond with those wide rails in a 14' wide room and you'd feel very restricted just moving around the table.
In retrospect, I think my room is better suited to a Diamond 7' bar box. A Standard Pro-Am 9' table in here would drive me nuts, but a 16' x 24' room would have given me all the space I needed for one.
I believe you have taken incorrect measurements on the length of the room then. 19'4", you are guaranteed to hit the wall if the cue is absolutely perpendicular when hitting a ball frozen to the rail.
My cousin had an eight foot table in a 8' X 12' room when we were kids. We had to jack up on every shot except where their was a door. We got just good enough to get ourselves door shape and leave other opponents jacked up against the walls. The good ol days. Not to mention we didn't have chalk. So we couldn't even put English on any shot. But somehow we always beat the neighborhood kids.
Actually by my calculations 19' 4" would allow about 62" of clearance on the end rails and 15' 4" would allow 65" on the side rails. The walls should not come into play since most cue sticks are 57"-58"
That's wonderful. So I assume you don't stroke the cue and you just push it into the cueball? 62" clearance with a ball frozen to the rail leaves you with 4 inches of room to stroke with a 58" cue. So...unless you have a backswing of less than 4", I say again there is not enough room.
So, for a 9', wouldn't the clearance be 66" in a 19'4" room? 19'4" = 232 inches long room - 100" playing surface = 132". Divide by 2 for each side, I get 66".
On the sides, 15' 4" = 184" - 50" playing surface = 134". Divide by 2, I get 67".
While I'm not going to say that no one will hit the wall, that is definitely enough space to stroke through.
Your measurements are correct, I just didn't bother correcting the other post because it wasn't relevant. If you read my first post (that I quoted here for your perusal), I said that with the ball frozen to the rail it may bump on the very last point on the backswing.
Ok so assuming the ball is dead frozen and you have to hit it 90 to the rail, then yes 4 inches would be a tad tight (but playable). However it's nearly impossible to hit this shot perfectly level without miscuing, so raising the butt slightly (which you have to do anyways) does also add a little more distance.
That exact shot will probably come up less than 1 in a 100 games, and it's the only chance of ever even coming close to a wall so it's not worth worrying about.
It's a little amazing...and as an engineer frustrating, to see these type of threads when room size is brought up. It isn't witchcraft or 3-d chess here. The playing area is 4'2" by 8'4". Worst case a ball is against the rail. The longest commonly used cues top out at 60 inches or 5 feet. So a logical staring point is playing area plus 10 feet in either direction plus back stroke. Let's add 6" for back stroke or another foot total. Of course a backstroke can by much longer but not when a ball is on the rail. If your bridge hand is on the rail, you likely can't stroke much beyond that without the cue falling off your hand. That gets us to playing surface plus 11 feet or 15'2" x 19'4".
If I had a room that was exactly 16 x 20 and was hell bent on a 9' table, I'd set up the foot of the table 5'6" or 66 inches inside of rail to wall, center it side to side and put chairs in the head end corners.
If it was me, I'd be looking at an oversized 8. having walls that close to being in the way is hard to not think about and a distraction in my mind. An oversized 8 get' you an extra 2 inches on the sides and if you just gave the foot an extra 2" you would gain 6 more inches at the head so that those corner chairs might actually allow room for people to sit in them while the game is being played.
If I had a room that was exactly 16 x 20 and was hell bent on a 9' table, I'd set up the foot of the table 5'6" or 66 inches inside of rail to wall, center it side to side and put chairs in the head end corners.
If it was me, I'd be looking at an oversized 8. having walls that close to being in the way is hard to not think about and a distraction in my mind. An oversized 8 get' you an extra 2 inches on the sides and if you just gave the foot an extra 2" you would gain 6 more inches at the head so that those corner chairs might actually allow room for people to sit in them while the game is being played.
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