3/8 x 10 tap question.
- Thread starter macguy
- Start date
How in the world are you breaking them ?
I suggest live tooling .
Prather or CH sell them .
I suggest live tooling .
Prather or CH sell them .
How did you break them?
If no tapping fluid was used that might do it? The incredible hard to tap maple.....I digress.:rotflmao:
I am careful but repeated torque seems to take a toll on them. I am using them for something other then working on cues. On a cue you are tapping into the end grain of the wood. That taps easy. I am tapping across the grain of hard maple and using 3/8 x 10 screws for assembly.
I wish I could get a tap that was not so long. The thing is, when they break the metal looks so weak at the break point, really cheap looking, nothing like I would expect in a tap so big. They seem brittle. I have snapped off taps that were very small in the past but never a tap that large. I think I may have bought these from Prather. I can't read on them where they are made, probably Chinese.
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Switch to 3/8 16 for the other stuff . Those taps are cheap.
Victor tools sells a shorter tap
I have a few
under 12 bucks each
http://www.victornet.com/detail/TAST-3/8-10.html
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Thank you so much, this is exactly why I asked here. You guys have answers.
It looks like that tap requires a larger hole but that does not matter for my purpose. I will give them a call in the morning.
Thanks again.
um,,,,,, they are brittle,,,,,,,,,
I just ordered 3 because they have a $25.00 minimum. Just curious, how do they compare to the ones sold by Atlas or Prather? The picture on the website looks like a generic picture of a tap and not the actual tap. Have you used them with standard 3/8 x 10 screw stock?
A few years ago I needed a new 5/16 x 14 tap and I found them as a stock item on an machine supply web site. They worked perfect at like 1/4 the price they charged by billiard supplies.
Reminds me of going into a boating supply and paying $3.00 for a screw you can get at Home Depot for like $.50.
Do you use any cutting fluid?
If your tappping a long hole, do you tap the hole in one go? or do you go about halfway, the chuck up closer and do the rest of the hole?
Depending on your accuracy, that might be the way to go. Those bits are quite brittle and it does not take much over torque and sideways motion to break them.
If your tappping a long hole, do you tap the hole in one go? or do you go about halfway, the chuck up closer and do the rest of the hole?
Depending on your accuracy, that might be the way to go. Those bits are quite brittle and it does not take much over torque and sideways motion to break them.
Ignore Picture would no upload
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I'm not sure if you bought the tap from us, but our taps are made in the US, except for the 7/16"-14 & the 8-32. I've been using the same 3/8"-10 tap for probably 8 years, working on mostly wood, but occasionally brass & aluminum as well. Not to say that I haven't ever broke one.. But they tend to hold up quite well.
Just keep in mind that the ones sold at victor are h3. I am not sure what ones Prather sells but i know the one at atlas I got was an h0. It is way tighter fit than the h3 from victor.
Hi, I am not using them as they are actually intended. I am tapping under power through solid maple. I just run them all the way through and drop out the tap. My comments were more because I have an old tap (see picture)
that seems more substantial. I must have had this tap 15 years and it is very dull now though.
I am abusing them but that is why I asked the question and I did get an answer from someone. I ordered three of those taps he showed that are shorter. I will have to back those out though because the shanks look too thick.
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