Anniversary table

jshepp69

New member
Morning, just purchased an Anniversary 8ft pro in very good shape. Appears to only be felted 2 or 3 times. The rails and bases have polished up nicely and the cushions are the original monarch in very good shape.
Wondering what's the easy way to polish the metal base trims and corners without damaging the protective coating if there is one.
Probably gonna refelt her in Somonis Green or blue. Does anyone have pics of theirs in either color to help me decide. Leaning towards green as the color for that era.
TIA for any helpful comments.
 

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bmeek

Registered
Nice table, congrats on your purchase. I went from green to blue and while I like both, I feel the green looks a little better with the wood. I will likely stick with the blue as it easier on the eyes and the burn marks are less visible.
 

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rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Morning, just purchased an Anniversary 8ft pro in very good shape. Appears to only be felted 2 or 3 times. The rails and bases have polished up nicely and the cushions are the original monarch in very good shape.
Wondering what's the easy way to polish the metal base trims and corners without damaging the protective coating if there is one.
Probably gonna refelt her in Somonis Green or blue. Does anyone have pics of theirs in either color to help me decide. Leaning towards green as the color for that era.
TIA for any helpful comments.
Congrats on the table! The pocket castings and pedestal surrounds look like they should: satin. These were anodized aluminum from the factory and may have been slightly more shiny when new. Slightly. Some have chosen to remove the anodizing and polish the aluminum to a mirror finish, but that's not how they looked when new. Re-anodizing is a roll of the dice due to the anodizing "rainbowing" when applied to older castings. I chose to powder coat the castings and feet on my Gold Crown I which came with its own challenges (outgassing). In the end, they came out good and I feel mimic the original look. I did have the extruded aluminum rail trim polished and anodized but it was pricey ($400). The shop I used wanted $900 for the pocket castings but would not guarantee the finish or redo them if they rainbowed so I went with the powder coating.

IMG_5437 copy by Scott Doucette, on Flickr
 

jshepp69

New member
Congrats on the table! The pocket castings and pedestal surrounds look like they should: satin. These were anodized aluminum from the factory and may have been slightly more shiny when new. Slightly. Some have chosen to remove the anodizing and polish the aluminum to a mirror finish, but that's not how they looked when new. Re-anodizing is a roll of the dice due to the anodizing "rainbowing" when applied to older castings. I chose to powder coat the castings and feet on my Gold Crown I which came with its own challenges (outgassing). In the end, they came out good and I feel mimic the original look. I did have the extruded aluminum rail trim polished and anodized but it was pricey ($400). The shop I used wanted $900 for the pocket castings but would not guarantee the finish or redo them if they rainbowed so I went with the powder coating.

IMG_5437 copy by Scott Doucette, on Flickr
Don't want to get into those expenses. Just hoping to find an exceptable way of polishing the anodized aluminum without damaging the current anodized coating.
Yours does look nice.🤩
 

jshepp69

New member
Nice table, congrats on your purchase. I went from green to blue and while I like both, I feel the green looks a little better with the wood. I will likely stick with the blue as it easier on the eyes and the burn marks are less visible.
The blue certainly looks good w the paint on the walls and light at the bar. Are both of those felts simonis 860?
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Don't want to get into those expenses. Just hoping to find an exceptable way of polishing the anodized aluminum without damaging the current anodized coating.
Yours does look nice.🤩
The anodizing is tough stuff. Just don't use anything that is too abrasive or generates too much heat when polishing.
 

jshepp69

New member
Here's a few pics of the slate. When we pulled rhe felt off we found a crack in the middle corner slate.
Got the table reassembled and the broken piece fell right bavk into place tight and flat.
Can anyone identify slate as Brunstone or slate. ?
It's got no warps or sags in it.
 

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Here's a few pics of the slate. When we pulled rhe felt off we found a crack in the middle corner slate.
Got the table reassembled and the broken piece fell right bavk into place tight and flat.
Can anyone identify slate as Brunstone or slate. ?
It's got no warps or sags in it.
I think you forgot to post the pic?
 

Lawnboy77

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Another option for those Anniversary castings is Nickel plating. Search for “Mark Gregory Anniversary Tables” and you can see the results. It looks phenomenal! I’m not sure who Mark uses, but I do know that Paul’s Chrome in PA does top notch nickel plating.

If you just polish them out yourself make sure to wipe them down often.
 

bmeek

Registered
The blue certainly looks good w the paint on the walls and light at the bar. Are both of those felts simonis 860?
Thanks. That bar is gone now, the victim of my crazy interior designer woman. The blue is Simonis 860, the green is Championship tour edition I believe. The simonis definitely feels better to me.
 

SBC

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Nothing will really repolish it without pulling the coating.
I buffed all mine with a cloth wheel with compound. Dirty job...lot of black crap. But they came out very nice....just a lot of work.

You'd need to pull the table apart to do it too.
 

jshepp69

New member
Here's a few pics of the slate. When we pulled rhe felt off we found a crack in the middle corner slate.
Got the table reassembled and the broken piece fell right bavk into place tight and flat.
Can anyone identify slate as Brunstone or slate. ?
It's got no warps or sags in it.

Here's a few pics of the slate. When we pulled rhe felt off we found a crack in the middle corner slate.
Got the table reassembled and the broken piece fell right bavk into place tight and flat.
Can anyone identify slate as Brunstone or slate. ?
It's got no warps or sags in it.

Nothing will really repolish it without pulling the coating.
I buffed all mine with a cloth wheel with compound. Dirty job...lot of black crap. But they came out very nice....just a lot of work.

You'd need to pull the table apart to do it too.
Thanks... I actually still have it apart now. Trying to decide on felt color and manufacture.
Was wanting to clean them up before I complete the reassembly of the rails.
 

jshepp69

New member
Strange I can't seem to post pics. Keeps telling me files to large for server even if I reduce to 80%.
Even though my initial post allowed 2 pics to upload at max resolution
 

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
Morning, just purchased an Anniversary 8ft pro in very good shape. Appears to only be felted 2 or 3 times. The rails and bases have polished up nicely and the cushions are the original monarch in very good shape.
Wondering what's the easy way to polish the metal base trims and corners without damaging the protective coating if there is one.
Probably gonna refelt her in Somonis Green or blue. Does anyone have pics of theirs in either color to help me decide. Leaning towards green as the color for that era.
TIA for any helpful comments.
Congrats on the table, its my dream table and the only thing I would be willing to give up my GCI for.
 

jshepp69

New member
Congrats on the table, its my dream table and the only thing I would be willing to give up my GCI for.
Thanks. I had almost purchased a GC3 they had said was a 9 ft. But after closer looking at the pictures it only had 1 pearl dot per rail which after a Google search proved it was a 10 ft snooker and I didn't have room for that.
A week later, I got an alert on market place on this Anniversary. Home was sold and had to get out ASAP.. 1500 and cheaper than the asking price for rhe gc3.
Plus thick cover, all the cue sticks, aramith balls and a brunswick cue stick holder. Unfortunately had to dissasemble and move it in the heat wave 2 weeks ago with heat index of 112... HOT 🔥 🥵
but we certainly lucked out. Have a great day
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Another option for those Anniversary castings is Nickel plating. Search for “Mark Gregory Anniversary Tables” and you can see the results. It looks phenomenal! I’m not sure who Mark uses, but I do know that Paul’s Chrome in PA does top notch nickel plating.

If you just polish them out yourself make sure to wipe them down often.
Nickel plating is VERY expensive.
 

jshepp69

New member
I think you forgot to post the pic?
Here's a few pics of the slate. When we pulled rhe felt off we found a crack in the middle corner slate.
Got the table reassembled and the broken piece fell right bavk into place tight and flat.
Can anyone identify slate as Brunstone or slate. ?
It's got no warps or sags in it.
Keeps telling me file size too large. Think I got it this time. Had to reduce to 60% 🙄
 

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jshepp69

New member
This is how the broken piece looks reassembled. Read somewhere I can superglue the seam after it's leveled out.
There was a gap of 1/8" on the outside of the main frame to slate backer where it was screwed down w no shim.
 
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