Backing up the cue ball, reverse

[Scott Lee]

Jacking up the back end of the cue is not the answer to making draw easier. The more level the cuestick, the easier it is to stroke the CB very low...which will yield dramatic draw results with very little speed.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

Quick fix from "Quick Draw"!

Line up for a center ball shot in your stance. Don't spread the fingers or the bridge to cue lower, instead, jack up the stroke hand. Cue way the heck down on that cue ball.

You now have two choices only--put a gentle grip/stroke/touch on the ball and draw it like a fiend or fugeddabouhdit. That'll learn 'ya!

PS. If you are used to using a very long bridge, shorten up some with your bridge hand closer to the cb.

 

[measureman]

little known fact.
pull the bumper off the butt.
look at the weight bolt and see if its set for F (forward) or R (reverse.)
if the problem to the draw shot set the bolt at R.

 

[Scott Lee]

If there's no F or R, do you turn the screw left or right, for draw? LOL

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

little known fact.
pull the bumper off the butt.
look at the weight bolt and see if its set for F (forward) or R (reverse.)
if the problem to the draw shot set the bolt at R.

 

[Bob Jewett]

little known fact.
pull the bumper off the butt.
look at the weight bolt and see if its set for F (forward) or R (reverse.)
if the problem to the draw shot set the bolt at R.

That's only for manual-drive cue sticks. The Wonder Cue company is about to come out with an automatic. It senses how high or low you are going to hit the ball and flips the weight accordingly. "If it's straight, it's a Wonder." They also make the Miracle Cue.

As for Scott's question, to the right for draw unless they put in a left-handed screw, which is typical for left-handed players. Then it would be to the left.

 

[Neil]

little known fact.
pull the bumper off the butt.
look at the weight bolt and see if its set for F (forward) or R (reverse.)
if the problem to the draw shot set the bolt at R.

While that may be true. It still won't necessarily get you that desired Pro Level draw. Everyone always hears about how important the tip is...well, it also has to be installed properly. Very few tip installers bother with the extra steps to properly installing a tip unless it is for a known pro that they happen to like.

As we all know, to get proper draw, one must hit the cb with the top portion of the tip. So, once one has checked the weight bolt, then one must check the tip and make sure that the top of the tip is installed up when the cue is in the "R" mode. You just won't get maximum effortless draw if the tip is installed upside down or sideways.

If you are still having trouble with your draw, there is a good chance you got hold of a left handed cue. In which case, just simply reverse the procedures above. Just set the weight bolt to "F" for draw, and have the tip installed upside down.

 

[bbb]

if you have trouble with draw you are not hitting low enough on the cue ball
THATS IT
jmho
icbw
i am not an instructor

 

[M.G.]

All joking aside which was pretty funny...

Well... I'm not an instructor, but I had a problems with draw shots.
Sometimes they would just stop, or back up 5 centimeters or so and sometimes they would do half the table.

It's actually not only about hitting low, or low + force.

Try to strongly imagine the shot you want to do, for at least 2-3 seconds. While some think it's not important, it actually is for your whole body to prepare for what you're going to do.

Then have somebody with you to help to check where you are actually hitting the CB. With biger shafts it can be difficult to judge where you ACTUALLY will be hitting the CB (other person looking from the side when you are slowly putting your tip to the CB without moving it).
Adjust accordingly.

Then try a slow hit to see if you are starting to jump the CB. You should not
If you are usually hitting the CB very even at a 90 degree angle (most people are not!) you can try (as Matt wrote) to slightly raise your butt. Depending upon you and your equipment this can be easier and allow for a bit more margin.

Finally the hardest thing is to find the timing of the shot (that's what you will be hearing Snooker players say). I never really understood this before, but it has been the last ingredient for success for me.
Judge and realize the time when the tip will contact the CB and your muscle need to aim for this point and then some = follow through.
( It's kind of like in Karate when for a successful blow you will aim 2cm into the skin. You will not aim exactly to the skin or simply accellerate aimlessly, not 10cm into the skin. You need to deliver at exactly 2cm. )

Now go to practise staight shots with various levels of draw. Only successful shots = draw count. Do 3-5 with stop. Then with a bit of back. Then more. And so on.

Good luck and cheers,
M

 

[BilliardsAbout]

Jacking up the back end of the cue is not the answer to making draw easier. The more level the cuestick, the easier it is to stroke the CB very low...which will yield dramatic draw results with very little speed.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

I didn't write that "Jacking up the back end of the cue is the answer to making draw easier." The drill I suggested forces the player to use a soft touch to pull off the shot with smooth speed--just as you suggest above for good draw shots.

Of course, once a player gets the soft touch down, they can jack up the cue without worrying as much as before about jumping the cue ball and losing straight, smooth draw action.

 

[M.G.]

So, with all the tips presented, were you able to improve your draw shots?
:thumbup:

 

[jburkm002]

Seems acceleration and contact point to the cue ball is most important watching the first video. Some shots had follow through and some didn't. Some shots had a level cue and some didn't.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Jimbojim]

As simple as this will sound...all one needs to do is to push through.

 

[bbb]

................

 

[BilliardsAbout]

What do you mean by "push"?

What are you "pushing through"?

 

[Bob Jewett]

Physically -- and I'm not discussing what might help mentally or psychologically -- physically what is required to get draw is that you hit the cue ball low. In addition, because the table constantly rubs off any draw that you do get on the ball, you will in general have to hit draw shots harder than follow shots to move the cue ball the same distance.

It is possible to draw the ball with a beautiful, long flowing follow through with extreme elbow drop. It is possible to draw the ball with a perfect pendulum stroke with a fixed elbow. It is possible to draw the ball with only a quarter-inch of follow through. It is possible to draw the ball jacked way up or with a level stroke. The trick is to find our how to draw easily and consistently. I think a simple progressive practice drill for draw is the best way.

 

[Jimbojim]

What do you mean by "push"?

What are you "pushing through"?

I'm pushing through the cueball with the tip of my cue in a straight line. The cueball is an obstacle of the cue's path, you don't just to hit it and then fake a follow-through from that point of contact, you need to go through the cueball, not to the cueball. I know it's vague but trust me, it helps with the acceleration.

 

[Bob Jewett]

I'm pushing through the cueball with the tip of my cue in a straight line. The cueball is an obstacle of the cue's path, you don't just to hit it and then fake a follow-through from that point of contact, you need to go through the cueball, not to the cueball. I know it's vague but trust me, it helps with the acceleration.

I agree that you want a single smooth forward motion for draw but that is not different from other normal shots -- follow, stun, side spin. The same stroke works for all. A common problem is that students think they need to recoil from a draw shot which causes them to slow the cue before impact.

 

[BilliardsAbout]

And speaking of recoil, in general, I dislike methods that advocate hitting at the cue ball instead of stroking smoothly through the cue ball. Which is why I asked. Hitting at the cue ball has limited uses IMO.

Progressive drills for draw are important. But someone who grips hard and hits their cue ball too hard is only learning progressive jump shots that way. It is possible to draw with any variety of pool stroke as was written above--but students need guidance, not only those who turn draw strokes into stop shots, but those who keep drawing at odd angles instead of straight back off a full hit. Set the first of a series of progressive draw shots for a player who struggles, say, six inches off the object ball straight on, and watch them pound even that shot way too hard.

 

[BigAlTheTiger]

I found it!
Corey Deuel’s SchoolofPool.com

interesting

 

[BigAlTheTiger]

tip

Physically -- and I'm not discussing what might help mentally or psychologically -- physically what is required to get draw is that you hit the cue ball low. In addition, because the table constantly rubs off any draw that you do get on the ball, you will in general have to hit draw shots harder than follow shots to move the cue ball the same distance.

It is possible to draw the ball with a beautiful, long flowing follow through with extreme elbow drop. It is possible to draw the ball with a perfect pendulum stroke with a fixed elbow. It is possible to draw the ball with only a quarter-inch of follow through. It is possible to draw the ball jacked way up or with a level stroke. The trick is to find our how to draw easily and consistently. I think a simple progressive practice drill for draw is the best way.

How much does the diameter of the tip have to do with the draw? I have a few cues, and it seems like the one the smaller diameter one gets more action. It's probably around 12.75 mm. I need a mm guage or calipers to be sure

 

[Bob Jewett]

How much does the diameter of the tip have to do with the draw? I have a few cues, and it seems like the one the smaller diameter one gets more action. It's probably around 12.75 mm. I need a mm guage or calipers to be sure

In general a smaller diameter tip will hit the ball lower if you use the same bridge for both shafts.