The butt I have takes the 3/8-16 bumper and I want to make one that has that thread on the inside of the one in the photo, but I can’t seem to find the right tap
Thanks in advance for any help
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bumper adapter
- Thread starter Texas Carom Club
- Start date
The butt I have takes the 3/8-16 bumper and I want to make one that has that thread on the inside of the one in the photo, but I can’t seem to find the right tap
Thanks in advance for any help
eh seems like its m10x2mm
which taps dont exist on a shelf in that size lol
, ill just modify the adapter i made for now
Yes the rubber got into a fight with the belt sand and lost
#”prototype”
Still sticks ugly far out the back of the cue
which taps dont exist on a shelf in that size lol
, ill just modify the adapter i made for now
Yes the rubber got into a fight with the belt sand and lost
#”prototype”
Still sticks ugly far out the back of the cue
Try a 3/8×10 joint screw in it. That works on some bumpers.
well 10mm is near .375 at .3937
and .07874 (2mm) and is in the ball park of .1 (10tpi)
its worth a spin
thanks
snookered_again
Well-known member
handy to have a thread pitch guage, otherwise what you can do is lay it alongside another bolt of known pitch and see if it keys in. what Il oftne do is run to my bolt bin and just start trying bolts, If I find a match then I look for a nut to fit or just try to loosely thread a tap in there or die if its eternal, just to see if it fits...
if you dont mind spending a pit of time pushing a hacksaw or if you have a metal cutting saw you can always take a slice of some other bolt to compare to internal threads.
my shaft looks hard to copy and I just wanted to make a shortened butt to clear encumbrances . I was considering just casting it out of epoxy with a coating of mold release so it doesn't get stuck in there. that way no threading is necessary. I figured I could insert a bit of metal so it has some structure to it , if needed..
for 20 bucks or so there are handy:
if you dont mind spending a pit of time pushing a hacksaw or if you have a metal cutting saw you can always take a slice of some other bolt to compare to internal threads.
my shaft looks hard to copy and I just wanted to make a shortened butt to clear encumbrances . I was considering just casting it out of epoxy with a coating of mold release so it doesn't get stuck in there. that way no threading is necessary. I figured I could insert a bit of metal so it has some structure to it , if needed..
for 20 bucks or so there are handy:
snookered_again
Well-known member
10 x 2 is likely less common then 10 x 1.5 so you can probably just order it but it might not be in your stock set of taps. most off the shelf tap and die sets dont include every possibility, just the most common.
If its a blind hole then you may want a bottoming tap, if you dont use it much or in a real pinch , you can shorten a taper or plug tap and make it into a bottoming one by slicing it off with a zip disk. more complete sets will have all 3
bit crude but you can also change a bolt into a tap by cutting the flutes onto a bolt with a grinder and give it a slight taper . It won't be precision, or very hard, but may cut plastic ok..
if you drill the correct size hole that helps get sort of a standard thread depth but if you like you can drill oversize and then it'll have less thread depth, if its just a butt cap it might not matter that the threads dont engage all that far. thats just a way to speed up or make the threading operation easier, like if you use a midified bolt as a tap.
of course doing all that isn't ideal but sometines you just want to work yourself out of a corner without waiting for a part or spending money.
If its a blind hole then you may want a bottoming tap, if you dont use it much or in a real pinch , you can shorten a taper or plug tap and make it into a bottoming one by slicing it off with a zip disk. more complete sets will have all 3
bit crude but you can also change a bolt into a tap by cutting the flutes onto a bolt with a grinder and give it a slight taper . It won't be precision, or very hard, but may cut plastic ok..
if you drill the correct size hole that helps get sort of a standard thread depth but if you like you can drill oversize and then it'll have less thread depth, if its just a butt cap it might not matter that the threads dont engage all that far. thats just a way to speed up or make the threading operation easier, like if you use a midified bolt as a tap.
of course doing all that isn't ideal but sometines you just want to work yourself out of a corner without waiting for a part or spending money.
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You were right it fits in a 3/8-10
Thanks
Oh snap when it wasn’t even on any drill charts we have or the mcmaster site I never looked twice good to know
Yeah it’s for that, so I can use my predator qr 12in extension on this cue I just got and won’t have to have multiple extensionsThat looks like it's threaded for the uniloc bullet pin. Don't know the pitch offhand, but I've seen it mentioned.
snookered_again
Well-known member
Yeah I’ll have to see which is easier to come by
To borrow a 3/8-10 tap from a cue maker buddy or order the m10x2 tap I’m sure either will suffice since they are close enough and I confirmed the 3/8-10 does go in it
And it is just for the extension so it’ll be fine either way
Thanks
snookered_again
Well-known member
most threads are the regular , pretty standardized thread angle. If a manufacturer wanted to they could also modify the angle, they "might" do that to be unique and proprietary, I dont know how many do that. this page shows what i mean by the angle, In case it's not obvious.
snookered_again
Well-known member
It might be the case that if the threads are a sloppy fit it can still draw the parts together and your cue might have a "land" where the two pieces can mate and make it parallel despite a crude wobbly thread fit.. I'm not a cue maker, they know that stuff better..
something like an extension , you may not want a very fine thread because you want it on and off without everybody watching and foot tapping while you sit there threading it a whole bunch of turns..
even though mine does have a fairly fast thread, Many times I'll just grab the (snooker) long cue and bridge rather than mucking about with all that, but it is nicer to use your cue. - preferences I guess. .
something like an extension , you may not want a very fine thread because you want it on and off without everybody watching and foot tapping while you sit there threading it a whole bunch of turns..
even though mine does have a fairly fast thread, Many times I'll just grab the (snooker) long cue and bridge rather than mucking about with all that, but it is nicer to use your cue. - preferences I guess. .
snookered_again
Well-known member
if you spin it on a lathe or drill or something then use an angle grinder , dremil etc.. With a small stone you can turn rubber by grinding.. i have a tool post grinder on my lath for that and same goes to to turn hardened steel too. rubber won't play nicely at all with drill bits or milling cutters and some other tools. both are turning at once so try to "oppose the rotation" . the rubber dust can be a bit messy..
It will work if it's just going in a couple of turns. It's a bit less than 10TPI, using a caliper puts it at 2mm.
It was hard to see the internal threads with the gage, I think we even ground it to get it in there
And it’s black bumper
And no pin to see the thread on the od
And it’s black bumper
And no pin to see the thread on the od
I hear ya ... have measured threads in old instruments/tools, thought they were very non-standard, then had google find the exact tap/die on Amazon
Dave <-- has a lot of funny tap/die sizes
<edit ... last night inspecting a surprise addition to a recently arrived eBay purchase and the little dovetail slide surprise has 3/8 - 40 (!) threads ... LEFT HANDED (!!!!)>
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