Cynergy Update and Question

[kollegedave]

I have been playing with the Cuetec Cynergy for a month now. I am getting used to the change in deflection from my regular maple shafts, but I am still not there all the way. It is important to know if you are attempting to change shafts from maple to LD, that it will take some time. In general, I am happy I am making the switch. I see two major benefits:

1) You have a bigger margin of error on center ball hits. Because of the LD, if you miss hit the cb in the center, it will still take a substantially similar path. Provided your set up is good, you can hit the cue ball a little bad and still pocket the object ball.

2) The shaft is noticeably stiffer than my previous shaft. It does not flex at the edges of the cueball, and instead it powers straight through. As a result, you can really draw the ball and apply all sorts of English…easily.
I like the ¼" white ABS ferrule, so tip changes are easier than with the REVO. However, I am getting these blue “scratches” or marks at the top of the ferrule. I was worried these were cracks. I spoke with a cue maker friend of mine, and he said these cannot be avoided, and that they are not cracks. In defense of the shaft, I got these marks on the Juma ferrules I used on my old shaft. However, I wish there was some way to avoid them.

1) Does anyone have any advice on how these marks can be prevented or removed?

2) Also, does anyone know the protocol for ferrule replacement on the Cuetec Cynergy Shaft?

 

[phreaticus]

I’m having the exact same issue with the 2 Cynergy’s I have. At first, it appeared as minor streaking, then more pronounced lines which look like scratches or possibly hairline cracks. Mine play fine, but after only 1 yr so, there are so many of them, I’m a bit worried about structural integrity, especially as I prefer to break with my playing cue.

I’ve now come across several of these similar threads - seems the Cynergy ferrules are pretty low quality… met a player recently who showed me pics of his Cynergy which had a ferrule which had literally disintegrated into pieces. I’m now looking into replacement ferrule options for mine.

Curious - what did you end up doing with yours?

Thx,

P

 

[td873]

What chalk are you using? And what is your chalking technique? I have 2 Cynergy shafts and neither has any sort of blue chalk on them...

-td

 

[phreaticus]

What chalk are you using? And what is your chalking technique? I have 2 Cynergy shafts and neither has any sort of blue chalk on them...

-td

Not sure if you’re asking me or the OP, but I’m not fussy on chalk. I personally prefer Russian Magic, but I play at lots of places and use whatever is around, mostly Master. I chalk properly and take care of my tips, its not a chalking issue. It doesn’t happen on my other cues/shafts. Interesting & good to hear yours don’t have the same issues. If you search, you’ll find quite a few folks have these issues. Thx

 

[garczar]

Most CF playing shafts are designed for playing and not breaking. They use light materials to get the mass down. I know a lot of CF users and not one breaks with it.

 

[phreaticus]

Most CF playing shafts are designed for playing and not breaking. They use light materials to get the mass down. I know a lot of CF users and not one breaks with it.

Yeah well I guess I’m just the exception then. Not a problem on my other CF shafts and after coming across several others with this problem, my vote is that if a ferrule can’t last a year of play including breaking - it sucks.

I think it really has nothing to do with breaking. One of the shafts is a backup, used mostly on home table, and isn’t used to break much - has same issues.

Its very clearly a Cynergy specific issue.

Cheers

 

[boogieman]

Not a CF, but I recently had to get used to a LD shaft. I feel that breaking with the shaft will give the quickest feedback to figure out how the shaft works. If you never hit a hard shot with the shaft, how can you trust it or know it's limits? Breaking gives you the maximum deflection that the shaft can create and you go from there. I'm probably wrong in conventional wisdom but it works for me and gets me tuned into what a shaft can do.

If I'm feeling decent with not a lot of back issues going on, I love the LD. If my back is screwed and I have to stand funny in bad fundamental type stances, I will use my much loved solid maple regular deflection cue. Something about the higher deflection is easier for me to calculate when out of proper stance. Maybe it occupies my mind instead of hurting... who knows.

Thanks for reporting the issue, I'm not a CF guy but if I ever get one it's something good to know.

 

[Jimmorrison]

Most CF playing shafts are designed for playing and not breaking. They use light materials to get the mass down. I know a lot of CF users and not one breaks with it.

On a fast table, with live cushions, I’ll second ball break with my CF player. Head ball smash, nope.

 

[dendweller]

Not a CF, but I recently had to get used to a LD shaft. I feel that breaking with the shaft will give the quickest feedback to figure out how the shaft works. If you never hit a hard shot with the shaft, how can you trust it or know it's limits? Breaking gives you the maximum deflection that the shaft can create and you go from there. I'm probably wrong in conventional wisdom but it works for me and gets me tuned into what a shaft can do.

If I'm feeling decent with not a lot of back issues going on, I love the LD. If my back is screwed and I have to stand funny in bad fundamental type stances, I will use my much loved solid maple regular deflection cue. Something about the higher deflection is easier for me to calculate when out of proper stance. Maybe it occupies my mind instead of hurting... who knows.

Thanks for reporting the issue, I'm not a CF guy but if I ever get one it's something good to know.

I played a guy the other night, he was playing with a cf shaft and breaking with a different cue. I was standing around
where he was leaning his break cue and took a look. It was a 20 year old predator 314. He was in his early 30s, said he'd been
breaking with that cue for 15 years. He broke pretty hard.
Guess the 314s were more rugged than I gave them credit for.

 

[garczar]

Yeah well I guess I’m just the exception then. Not a problem on my other CF shafts and after coming across several others with this problem, my vote is that if a ferrule can’t last a year of play including breaking - it sucks.

I think it really has nothing to do with breaking. One of the shafts is a backup, used mostly on home table, and isn’t used to break much - has same issues.

Its very clearly a Cynergy specific issue.

Cheers

In my home room the Cynergy is one of the most seen/used cf shafts. All users use a dedicated break cue. AFAIK none have had ferrule related issues. When the Revo first came out i msg'd Pred. about breaking with it. They said that it might take the abuse they didn't recommend it. Said the front-end was designed for playing and not breaking.

 

[garczar]

I played a guy the other night, he was playing with a cf shaft and breaking with a different cue. I was standing around
where he was leaning his break cue and took a look. It was a 20 year old predator 314. He was in his early 30s, said he'd been
breaking with that cue for 15 years. He broke pretty hard.
Guess the 314s were more rugged than I gave them credit for.

I've seen a few 314's literally explode on hard break shots. Rare to see an older 314 these days. Most have broken by now if they were used to break on a regular basis.

 

[ShootingArts]

I use a Cynergy too. I haven't gotten to play lately but I noticed some streaking too. A suspicion, might say an opinion, I think heat is the issue, heat and pressure. I think we all know we can generate enough heat to burn the cloth breaking, I think when the ferrule slides on the cloth, especially less than clean cloth with a little chalk grit in it or the grit being supplied by a heavily chalked tip, the plastic is melting and the chalk embedding in it. I haven't been able to remove the streaks in my ferrule with nonabrasive cleaners. I hesitate to use even a mild abrasive as I think it likely that this will roughen the surface and encourage new streaks.

I like the CF, I don't care for the plastic at either end of it!

Hu

 

[Michael Webb]

The ferrule on the Cynergy is the softest of all the c/f shafts. The least durable too. Sands and scratches (felt burn) the most also.
On the old Predator ferrules, it's weakest point was the glue used to hold the ferrule on.

 

[phreaticus]

The ferrule on the Cynergy is the softest of all the c/f shafts. The least durable too. Sands and scratches (felt burn) the most also.
On the old Predator ferrules, it's weakest point was the glue used to hold the ferrule on.

Thx for the feedback, much appreciated and that matches what I’ve been surmising. Do you have any experience/tips (pun intended) on replacing ferrules on Cynergy’s? I’m ideally interested in replacing with a 3/8” Tomahawk. Thanks in advance.

 

[Michael Webb]

Thx for the feedback, much appreciated and that matches what I’ve been surmising. Do you have any experience/tips (pun intended) on replacing ferrules on Cynergy’s? I’m ideally interested in replacing with a 3/8” Tomahawk. Thanks in advance.

The best way to choose a proper ferrule replacement, if you choose that path. Is to know how the different ferrule materials play. I've done extensive repairs on the many different c/f shafts.
They're not easy.
Cross your t's and dot your I's every step of the way.
No shortcuts.