Dr. Kenny D's 2010 Searing, video plus short story/history of cue

skins

Likes to draw
Silver Member
All I know is in 1993 I said Skips veneers were the absolute best way to make a traditional looking veneer, non-traditionally. I was basically laughed at and called a homer and only because I was dealing his cues. Also 12 years ago Skip sent out either maple or holly to be dyed so he could make the teal in a titlist colored cue. I am really glad people are catching up. :p

There is only so many ways to skin (no pun intended) this cat... I wonder how close the two ways are???

JV


I didn't laugh at you Joe... That didn't come till years later..:wink:
 

greyghost

Coast to Coast
Silver Member
the reason the green veneer is diff colors is because its quarter sawn.....

i mean i know its quarter sawn i'm looking at it lol.....the grain does that its not even a dye problem.....a popular wouldn't maybe to it but sycamore....yuppers
 

Chopdoc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
the reason the green veneer is diff colors is because its quarter sawn.....

i mean i know its quarter sawn i'm looking at it lol.....the grain does that its not even a dye problem.....a popular wouldn't maybe to it but sycamore....yuppers

I think it's easy to see there is a difference in direction of grain. Certainly that would be the first culprit to suspect for the color variation. Certainly there could be a dye process difference that we cannot see though. Probably only Searing would know if such a thing contributed.

Of course, one would think a cue maker would use veneers from the same dye batch in general, which brings us right back to your point.
 

greyghost

Coast to Coast
Silver Member
I think it's easy to see there is a difference in direction of grain. Certainly that would be the first culprit to suspect for the color variation. Certainly there could be a dye process difference that we cannot see though. Probably only Searing would know if such a thing contributed.

Of course, one would think a cue maker would use veneers from the same dye batch in general, which brings us right back to your point.

I can just see the pattern that is revealed if a plank was quarter sawn.....on somethin round or just a cross section like that it shows up at that squarish quilting straight up and down opposing sides of the shaft.....

i actually like the look. some maker recently (thomas wayne i think) did a pretty cue and all the ivory inlays were quarter sawn and it was real neat, think i had only seen that in a cue on accident not purposefully, or i just dont remember....which is and isn't hard for me to believe either way lol...he coulada been firsts or forgetful keeb :(

i did want to add.....i do know a tincy wincy bit about dying fabrics with my mothers custom sewing and stuff.....quilts bla bla bla. shes making my southwest case, original feed sack cloth....no not burlap jeez...its 80+ to a little over a hundred year old full cotton cloth that tey made the feed sacks out of.....it was nice soft priinted material.

Its what the farmers wives and daughters made their dresses out of.

Then will have the hand quilted cactuses.....logo embroidered...

lorie approved :cool::thumbup::eek::p

but some things if shes dying particular fabrics or using particular dyes, she adds other things....vinegar, some things need salt etc....

i'm sue there would be a way to dye the quarter possibly but part of the reason for that lighter color isn't that it ditn't soak in i dont think....its because the cell structure just wont allow it as how its structure is arranged it just plain and simple reflects light more intensly....

i mean i did just make that up with deductive reasoning but it sorta makes sense to me? ish? lol

so one may have to just rotate the cuts on the stock wood that it would be cut out of i guess...

im no worlds best cue maker lol but i been around wood all my life.....since day one. I dont know how every wood reacts to every stain, finish, etc....

but the only time i ever see something come out stained uneven, WHEN ITS NOT A SOFTWOOD...because of the sap all over, that will barrier you, knots also because its not even the same makeup....soft woods often are a pain to stain because of that, residual sap could be on the surface...like a spanish cedar, stuffs known to leak sap for years, but its great heavy stuff.....nothing like a pine, i mean at all.

With mostof the moderate grade american hardwoods in hardness, the maple, some oaks, walnut etc all take stain very well, if you doing your cabinets in oak. You use a sealer for theopposite reason, instead of having spots that wouldnt soak in you do a thin soak everywhere so its more even looking. The hardwood wants to slurp it up and it will get real real dark and hide the grain.

obviously just going from standpoint of a general wood working side, not necessairly saying this about cues if that makes sense, dyes, oils....no like de other
 

Chopdoc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Very interesting. I know what you mean. My wife is a quilter and embroidery nut. I have substantailly more in those machines than in my Harleys! LOL!

Wish I could get her to make me a case..... :(


My dad was a wood nut. Cues got me into it late in life. I was always into leatherwork though, that's where my dying experience has been. Obviously wood is a different animal.






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