G-10 Pins?

[Snookered007]

Hello, I was wondering if some of the cue builders, could tell me how they feel using a G-10 pin effects the overall cue? Is there a substantial difference in the hit, feedback provided or the balance of the cue? All of the cues I own have metal pins of one size or another. All responses are appreciated.

Thanks.......

 

[hillscues]

doesn't change the hit at all, brass , stainless all the same, ass thay are better for forward weight . the joint plays different between ivory, stainless, and phonlic.darrin

 

[JBCustomCues]

Me personaly I dont like them. Case in point: I had made a cue here recently (had 3/8 10 .308 minor diameter pin) that to me was near perfection. Played great and felt very good in my hands. I just happened to have a dumb ass attack and said "she feels a tad foward balanced" in front of the customer. Now by tad I mean 20 inch balance point. The customer incested that I change the pin out for a G-10 pin so we could move the balance point back to around the 19-19.25 inch range area. Now after doing so I hated the way the cue hit. She still felt good in my hands but to me it lost all its feel. It felt kind of dead and just did not resonate the same. Now in my opinion a cue with a small pin and incert will hit the same rather its a 5/16 14 or a 5/16 18 or and thing else in that style. Wood to wood joints with a stainless steel pin rather its a 3/8 10 or 3/8 11 pin feel the same as well. But the G-10 and other composite style of pins are in a class of there own. To me they just dont transfer the energy and resonate the same as a metal pin..

 

[bdcues]

I started using the G-10 pins a couple years ago and now use them in every cue possible. They allow me to build cues that balances at about 18" without a steel pin and since everything is either 6-pie laminated butts or a 6-pie core running full length there is no A-joint pin either. Sometimes there will be a small weight bolt in the rear. As for the feel it seems everyone is split, you already have heard it makes no difference and that is spoiled a good cue. For myself, it seems to take away joint feel which, in my mind, is a good thing. Makes it seems more like a house cue. I don't want a cue that I can feel the joint or that the joint is changing the way the cue feels. I want the joint to disappear. That doesn't mean that the cue has no feel. I have heard that the G-10 vibrates at a rate closer to that of wood than any of the metal pins and would have to think it was true which would make a more homogeneous feel.

 

[JoeyInCali]

They hit the best among all pins imo.
Drawback is they are abrasive.

 

[Eric Wynne]

The pins can be buffed to look pretty and smooth ...

 

[BlowFish]

They hit the best among all pins imo.
Drawback is they are abrasive.

As a user with a couple of cues with this pin, I will agree. I also prefer cues to be light (18.5oz'er and below), hence this is the best pin choice. It makes the hit livelier/truer (for lack of a better word) with a G10 pin.

 

[Snookered007]

Hey guys, I would like to thank all of you for your responses. I've decided to have a G-10 pin (3/8 x 10) installed on my next conversion. I figure why not give it a try, if I don't like it I'll go back to a "traditional" pin, or I may find that proverbial pot of gold under the G-10 rainbow.

Thanks all....

 

[Varney Cues]

I've decided to have a G-10 pin (3/8 x 10) installed on my next conversion.

A conversion may not be your best bet unless you prefer a rather butt heavy cue. A conversion is a fullsplice & fullsplice cues by nature are butt heavy since most have maple forearms and then heavier woods for the rear of the splice. Just to make you aware.:wink:

 

[Snookered007]

A conversion may not be your best bet unless you prefer a rather butt heavy cue. A conversion is a fullsplice & fullsplice cues by nature are butt heavy since most have maple forearms and then heavier woods for the rear of the splice. Just to make you aware.:wink:

Thanks Kevin,

I will take that info into consideration.

 

[JoeyInCali]

A conversion may not be your best bet unless you prefer a rather butt heavy cue. A conversion is a fullsplice & fullsplice cues by nature are butt heavy since most have maple forearms and then heavier woods for the rear of the splice. Just to make you aware.:wink:

Powdered tungsten under the pin mixed with epoxy fixes that problem.SS collar?
OR fat forearm and thin handle. Or if you are lucky enough to have dated DPK's daughter, you might have a saw machine with his parabolic bar.
But, I believe the only famous daughter you dated was Robin Williams' daughter.
She was as hairy as her dad but you were desperate.:grin-square:

 

[Varney Cues]

Powdered tungsten under the pin mixed with epoxy fixes that problem.SS collar?
OR fat forearm and thin handle. Or if you are lucky enough to have dated DPK's daughter, you might have a saw machine with his parabolic bar.
But, I believe the only famous daughter you dated was Robin Williams' daughter.
She was as hairy as her dad but you were desperate.:grin-square:

I knew better than to bring her to your doublewide Joey. I was just a skinny kid back then anyway & her fur kept me warm in the winter.:grin:

 

[Snookered007]

Powdered tungsten under the pin mixed with epoxy fixes that problem.SS collar?
OR fat forearm and thin handle. Or if you are lucky enough to have dated DPK's daughter, you might have a saw machine with his parabolic bar.
But, I believe the only famous daughter you dated was Robin Williams' daughter.
She was as hairy as her dad but you were desperate.:grin-square:

Roger one niner I read you loud and clear and hey.... the Vixens fly at midnight :grin-devilish:

 

[ftgokie]

Out of every cue I have tried that has a G-10, I do not like. It has a different sound, and the hit is not the same as if it would have a metal pin in it. It has more of a "thud" to it. If I had 2 identical cues and 1 had a G-10 and the other had a brass or stainless, I would chose the metal over the G-10 any day. But that is just me.....my friend loves the G-10...so, everyone is different.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Out of every cue I have tried that has a G-10, I do not like. It has a different sound, and the hit is not the same as if it would have a metal pin in it. It has more of a "thud" to it. If I had 2 identical cues and 1 had a G-10 and the other had a brass or stainless, I would chose the metal over the G-10 any day. But that is just me.....my friend loves the G-10...so, everyone is different.

I think that had more to do with the wood used than the pin material.

 

[Tommy-D]

> I've only owned one cue with a Radial in it,and didn't have it long enough to formulate an opinion.

On the G-10 versions,what can be done to improve their appearance?

Also,what is Joey Gold doing to his to get his pin so nice? It looks like he's cutting a .500 x 11 to full depth,then using a toolpost grinder to reduce the diameter to .4375,judging by the width of the flats. Thanks,Tommy D.

 

[greyghost]

I started using the G-10 pins a couple years ago and now use them in every cue possible. They allow me to build cues that balances at about 18" without a steel pin and since everything is either 6-pie laminated butts or a 6-pie core running full length there is no A-joint pin either. Sometimes there will be a small weight bolt in the rear. As for the feel it seems everyone is split, you already have heard it makes no difference and that is spoiled a good cue. For myself, it seems to take away joint feel which, in my mind, is a good thing. Makes it seems more like a house cue. I don't want a cue that I can feel the joint or that the joint is changing the way the cue feels. I want the joint to disappear. That doesn't mean that the cue has no feel. I have heard that the G-10 vibrates at a rate closer to that of wood than any of the metal pins and would have to think it was true which would make a more homogeneous feel.

I could agree with that, I had a fullspliced purple heart sneaky with the G-10 and a wax coat , it did feel more lively, more like a one piece cue, never thought about the idea that it takes the jointed feel out the cue. It always felt loaded too, as you could "cinch" it down really tight...moved the cb really well with that cue, and it was a really straight shooter. That must have been why they stole it


Secondly I think that radial pin w/ flat face w/w hit very nice, but I'm choosing either G-10 or Brass for a radial pin...i think you got more precision joining of the cue with the radial pin as opposed to others also, except for maybe a piloted joint...what does that tell ya MORE SURPHASE AREA ON THE PIN, the better it can send and resend waves through out the cue without excess loss of energy.


Grey Ghost

 

[Snookered007]

Thanks for all your input guys! This has been very helpful.

 

[Dakota Cues]

I think it has to do with a combination of factors, but I don't think that the pin makes anywhere near as much difference as shaft taper, or even tip.

The balance point due to the lighter weight would be another big factor, but that's just balance, not really feel.

Also, all G-10 cues are not the same, either. I have played with 2 cogs and hated both of them, BUT I've played with a Richard Chudy (rc3), and absolutely LOVED it.

I'm just saying that the pin is part of the equation, but it's not the answer...

 

[JoeyInCali]

The G-10 radial pin is as good as the cue is constructed.
It does not take away nuthin' out of the cue imo.