Oklahomafats
Registered
I BEEN SHOOTING POOL FOR 5 MTHS WITH MY ACTION CUe i can draw push follow and spin and masse .bar tables are not a problem its 10 ft i have a problem .any tips?
how to get more control of the cue ball
- Thread starter Oklahomafats
- Start date
How much time to you spend practicing on each type of table?
I BEEN SHOOTING POOL FOR 5 MTHS WITH MY ACTION CUe i can draw push follow and spin and masse .bar tables are not a problem its 10 ft i have a problem .any tips?
I BEEN SHOOTING POOL FOR 5 MTHS WITH MY ACTION CUe i can draw push follow and spin and masse .bar tables are not a problem its 10 ft i have a problem .any tips?
What's a push shot?
If I had to guess I think he might be referring to a stun run through shot, or maybe just a plain stun shot.
Just a guess though.
Bigger tables
Every technique in pool (and most things) is learned in increments.
You learn to walk before you learn to run.
You learn how to hit a slow pitch before you learn how to hit a fast pitch.
Long shots in pool are more difficult than closer shots because they're hardier to see and there is less margin for error. All other things being equal (condition of table for example), it's naturally more difficult to play on a bigger table. There's also the psychological factor, - we expect to have more trouble hitting targets that are farther away.
To make the learning process easier, we learn in increments. You can do this on a bar table. Practice a shot that is easy until you have confidence in executing it properly. Then add a little distance to the shot. When you gain confidence in the longer shot, increase the distance. The same theory applies not just for pocketing balls, but for cue ball control as well. Learn dead stop before draw. Learn to draw the cue ball consistently six inches before learning to draw to a foot.
The same approach applies to learning banks, kicks, etc. I'm sure you've noticed that even on a bar table, a six foot straight in is more difficult than a one foot straight in. So you learn to have confidence in increments. If you're approaching the learning process correctly, you will learn half a tip of spin before a full tip. You'll learn dead stop from one foot before six feet. You'll learn one rail banks before two railers.
Going directly from a bar box to a 10 foot table is a challenge for everyone. You can't realistically expect to make most of your five foot shots and then automatically do the same at ten feet.
As you increase distance, any spin on the cue ball has more opportunity to get out of your control. Speed is a critical factor, so this is learned in increments as well.
You can get by with minor errors and still be successful on a small table...you can't on a big one. So fundamentals are very important.
I repeat. As the difficulty of a shot increases, the more important fundamentals are. It's easy to let mechanical faults creep into your game when a shot is challenging and you lack confidence. You may have flaws in your game that you are completely unaware of.
Have you considered seeking help from a qualified instructor?
I BEEN SHOOTING POOL FOR 5 MTHS WITH MY ACTION CUe i can draw push follow and spin and masse .bar tables are not a problem its 10 ft i have a problem .any tips?
Every technique in pool (and most things) is learned in increments.
You learn to walk before you learn to run.
You learn how to hit a slow pitch before you learn how to hit a fast pitch.
Long shots in pool are more difficult than closer shots because they're hardier to see and there is less margin for error. All other things being equal (condition of table for example), it's naturally more difficult to play on a bigger table. There's also the psychological factor, - we expect to have more trouble hitting targets that are farther away.
To make the learning process easier, we learn in increments. You can do this on a bar table. Practice a shot that is easy until you have confidence in executing it properly. Then add a little distance to the shot. When you gain confidence in the longer shot, increase the distance. The same theory applies not just for pocketing balls, but for cue ball control as well. Learn dead stop before draw. Learn to draw the cue ball consistently six inches before learning to draw to a foot.
The same approach applies to learning banks, kicks, etc. I'm sure you've noticed that even on a bar table, a six foot straight in is more difficult than a one foot straight in. So you learn to have confidence in increments. If you're approaching the learning process correctly, you will learn half a tip of spin before a full tip. You'll learn dead stop from one foot before six feet. You'll learn one rail banks before two railers.
Going directly from a bar box to a 10 foot table is a challenge for everyone. You can't realistically expect to make most of your five foot shots and then automatically do the same at ten feet.
As you increase distance, any spin on the cue ball has more opportunity to get out of your control. Speed is a critical factor, so this is learned in increments as well.
You can get by with minor errors and still be successful on a small table...you can't on a big one. So fundamentals are very important.
I repeat. As the difficulty of a shot increases, the more important fundamentals are. It's easy to let mechanical faults creep into your game when a shot is challenging and you lack confidence. You may have flaws in your game that you are completely unaware of.
Have you considered seeking help from a qualified instructor?
With practicing
This is a gaff post
Gaff or maybe a beginner trying to sound knowledgeable. In the only other post this person made he (or she) refers to "smooth tables." ----- As opposed to bumpy tables?