Pool cue case

[Fireside]

The case should match the cue. If it's a nice cue, put it in a nice case.
JB, and I have never been friends, but you've got to hand it to him he makes a damn fine case for the money.
Remember, treat your cue like you would your mother-in-law. Put it in a good case and then throw it in the trunk. :smile:

I've gotten a couple recommendations from the forum for JB, also one for a "poolgods" case? Never heard of em, but the case was the same price as one from pooldawg which from the sounds of it isn't much better than my current case; the link is earlier in this thread.

Oh yeah, depending on brand of cue you have, the manufacturer may refinish for free. I always look into manufacturer details before I purchase a cue.

It's a viking, so it has a lifetime warranty including warpage. I am not sure if that covers refinishing so I will have to look into that. I've only had this particular cue 4 days so even if they do I may hold off a bit. Only 4 days and already scratched it xD

Insane, you bought the cheapest used cases you could find.
You might ship the 10 dollar cases back. so you will be out the shipping there and back
and the bottle of polishing compound to rub out the scratches will cost you more then the case.

Auto parts store
get a bottle of meguiars # 2 fine cut cleaner , should take about a hr to hand polish the scratches out.

So far everything you have done on the case has cost you money and has damaged your cues.
I don't know who is advising you on what gear to buy, but you are not doing yourself any favors.
The polishing cream will work, maybe you should just send the cue to me and I will fix it for you for free, I can order you inn a new case that will not scratch the butt of your cue , and I will not order you in a case that is exactly the same as you got now except with fancy red lettering.

I think your budget screwed yourself and you just threw away 30 or 40 bucks

I already got refunded the price of the cases and he told me to keep the cases. So I'm not out anything except the small scratches on the butt. I was gonna ask if polishing the butt would help remove them, I read automotive polish is good like you said but also that guitar polish works well (which I have).

If you were serious about helping me fix the cue I might take you up on that offer in the future (not for free, I would have to give you something for your time.) As far as cases what would you order? All my "advice" comes from the forums or reviews on products, not anyone in person unfortunately. Not sure at which point a prices case tag stops meaning improved quality and starts meaning a bigger name if you get what I mean.

I really appreciate all the info I was kicking myself the moment I saw the scratches, and stopped using the case. I know it wasn't a great idea, but at least I learned from it.

 

[Fireside]

Unfortunately, you get what you paid for my friend..

I like the action and elite cases for best bang for your buck. Action is a little cheaper.
But Elite has a lot more to offer and is not that much more expensive.

I looked at these cases and really liked what I saw. It wasn't the cheap built case I have but the action cases were not a whole lot more expensive. Debating two 1x1's vs. a 2x2 (me and my girlfriend both have a cue. She never plays without me but I'm not sold on the whole storing them together idea, though its cheaper.)

For reference, these cues were cheap. I found them locally (brand new, these are not used) for $85 a piece. I bought them from an authorized viking dealer in Alabama, $100 for the pair both also brand new. They are the Valhalla line from viking. I know they aren't near top of the line, probably not something most people here would use but so far I like em, worlds better than the house cues which is all we wanted for ours right now.
Most of the cases I see that don't look cheap to my eyes cost almost as much, if not AS MUCH as the cues themselves. I don't really mind this though, if she continues to enjoy pool like she is we will be upgrading cues in the near future so a good case is an easy choice.

Edit: Also, curious what you two think of these two brands, mortuarymike and Tramp Steamer? Seem to know a tad bit more than me All I'm really looking for is a case that won't scratch em, and is a hard case. We don't travel much, and all of our playing will be at a small local bar with friends. The case won't see a lot of wear, so a cheaper case is okay in my eyes, as long as the cloth doesn't scratch the cue.

 

[Fireside]

http://www.amazon.com/Elite-2-Butt-4-Shaft-Prime-Leather/dp/B00CZAAVM0 Seems like an awesome case to me, little pricey but like the look of it.

 

[RiverCity]

http://www.cuesight.com/jssc4k.html

If all you need is a case to carry your cue in, a plain old soft case gets the job done just fine. Dont bang it around or throw it around, and dont set stuff on top of it, and your cues will be fine inside of it. If you are the type of person who can tear up a steel ball, then get yourself a rugged from JB, as it gives best in class protection at a popular price point.

Spending a lot of money on cases isnt needed, and this is coming from a case maker. Fancier cases are about aesthetics mainly, and pride of ownership. Like having a nice car or what have you.

 

[plandr5]

I had a predator blak which put the same scratches in my new cue. Now I have a jb rugged and never looked back. Wish I would have discovered that case sooner.

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

stuff

I've gotten a couple recommendations from the forum for JB, also one for a "poolgods" case? Never heard of em, but the case was the same price as one from pooldawg which from the sounds of it isn't much better than my current case; the link is earlier in this thread.



It's a viking, so it has a lifetime warranty including warpage. I am not sure if that covers refinishing so I will have to look into that. I've only had this particular cue 4 days so even if they do I may hold off a bit. Only 4 days and already scratched it xD



I already got refunded the price of the cases and he told me to keep the cases. So I'm not out anything except the small scratches on the butt. I was gonna ask if polishing the butt would help remove them, I read automotive polish is good like you said but also that guitar polish works well (which I have).

If you were serious about helping me fix the cue I might take you up on that offer in the future (not for free, I would have to give you something for your time.) As far as cases what would you order? All my "advice" comes from the forums or reviews on products, not anyone in person unfortunately. Not sure at which point a prices case tag stops meaning improved quality and starts meaning a bigger name if you get what I mean.

I really appreciate all the info I was kicking myself the moment I saw the scratches, and stopped using the case. I know it wasn't a great idea, but at least I learned from it.

My offer stands if you want the scratches rubbed out.

I don't mind helping from time to time,
If you have other repairs needed then pm me And I will see if I can do.

I would like to know what is causing the scratches ?
Glade that you are getting everything worked out.
PS I would have to agree with allot of members who are fans of John Barton cases.

Best of luck getting every thing straightened out .

 

[Fireside]

I would like to know what is causing the scratches ?
Glade that you are getting everything worked out.
PS I would have to agree with allot of members who are fans of John Barton cases.

I'm not entirely sure to be honest. I haven't had a lot of time to inspect it, but its just cloth over some solid material at the top, with the holes for the butt/shaft. They don't run all the way down and the scratches are only on the end with the cloth, where the opening is. It's something on that part, but I haven't had a lot of time to look at it with work. I work again tonight then I finally get a day off, back to it Monday. I'll try to check it out when I get up this afternoon (working nights sucks XD) and see if I can find anything odd.

EDIT: I got super curious and pulled that case apart (inspecting it wasn't enough lol) since they were essentially free.
Talk about Chinese made garbage. Thin plastic (pvc?) tube, I've seen sturdier cereal boxes, with just thin pieces of styrofoam on the end to "cushion" the cue. The holes at the top run down almost exactly 7 inches, and they are made of plastic covered in some cheap felt wannabe fabric that self adheres. That to me at least, was a pretty big tip off of cheap; it was like the first thing I saw when disassembling it.

The scratches look like they came from a "burr" in the plastic that might have poked through the fabric slightly. Both mine and the girlfriends cues got scratched in almost the same exact place in the same way so I pulled apart both and there is the same flaw in the plastic on both. Looks like the mold used had some damage.

To top it all off 90% of the case was held together by *drum roll*..packing tape -.-

Lesson learned. Looking at quality cases atm. On the plus side, the leather on the outside is well stitched and held up to all this without a problem. Building a wood tube lined with felt that would fit inside it would be easy peasy, and would be a pretty unique case. As long as it was sanded smooth and finished properly I don't see the wood causing damage the same way the plastic did. Project for a rainy day I suppose, for sure buying a NICE case to use in the mean time.

 

[Fireside]

I also stumbled into things like "foam formed" or "poured rubber". Which is better? As I understand it, that refers to what the case itself is made of, underneath the leather right?