removing a joint pin
- Thread starter the breed
- Start date
If you don't care about trying to save the pin. Apply a little heat to the pin (not too much as to damage any ring work but enough to loosen the epoxy) and grip it with a pair of channel locks and back it out. Sometimes it is easier to hold the pin in a vice and turn the cue.
I use a fender washer ( big washer , small hole ) and a small torch , apply flame to pin with the flame going away from wood on butt , use vice grips , only heat till you can turn the pin . I don't leave the vice grips on the pin , I attach when I want to try and remove it if don't turn yet . GL Jim
It does depend on the glue used to hold the pin in. I came across a cue and the heat required to remove the pin was too much. So I set to and drilled it out with a left hand drill,.ie lathe runs in reverse to drill it out.
I latter found out that the pin was put in with High temp epoxy. The wood and ring work would have been damaged trying to use heat alone.
I would think Jim uses it as a sort of heat sheild
That was my initial thought too, but after thinking on it harder, it seems the washer is just a larger heat conductor that would be in the way. Seems like the washer could possibly do more harm if it was heated up enough and touched something it wasn't suppose to.......... like my hand,LOL.
Lol
More of a temp thing I would think.
If he's using a torch, so the flame doesn't hit directly
Lol
More of a temp thing I would think.
If he's using a torch, so the flame doesn't hit directly
Yes , keeping the heat from the end of butt , it's a shield . Washer absorbs some of the heat protects the cue . Jim
poolplayer32091
Richard Penny
removing brass insert
Use a solder gun to heat the brass insert. It takes a while to heat it enough to soften the epoxy but then a pair of vise grips to unscrew the insert. careful, not to gouge the face of the shaft or the shaft collar.
then, you need to clean the void with a tap that is same as the insert you removed. If the brass insert you are installing has different dimensions, you would need to plug and drill/ tap for the new insert.
Richard Penny
CueWorks, etc.
www.cueworksetc.com
Use a solder gun to heat the brass insert. It takes a while to heat it enough to soften the epoxy but then a pair of vise grips to unscrew the insert. careful, not to gouge the face of the shaft or the shaft collar.
then, you need to clean the void with a tap that is same as the insert you removed. If the brass insert you are installing has different dimensions, you would need to plug and drill/ tap for the new insert.
Richard Penny
CueWorks, etc.
www.cueworksetc.com
amarillonarrow
Registered
Was making a pool cue and got the joint pin very slightly off. Should learn but haven't made a cue in about a year. Anyway, I had the joint pin epoxied in with 5 minute 2 part epoxy. Surprisingly, I heated the pin up with a Harbor Freight 2000 degree heat gun, which they put on sale for about $10 normally. Anyway, heated it up about 10 minutes with a large washer to protect the joint collar and rings. Threw it on my 3 jaw lathe chuck and the pin came out IMMEDIATELY. No problemo.
I wondered what happened to this thread?
Seems like yesterday. Lol
Do you think the heat gun heated it up that quick
Or the 5 minute epoxy broke down that quick with little heat?
Hmmm????
amarillonarrow
Registered
amarillonarrow
Registered
Either way I'm happy with the results. Put a new pin in and made sure it was straight. Finished the carbon fiber shaft blank and made it into a real shaft and am now putting the final couple of clear coats on the cue. Also put a quick lock retractable pool cue extension on which retracts up to 13".
Attachments
I like to fold a paper towel into a long strip. Wind it around the collar then wind some tape around it to keep it there. Soak it with water (spray bottle works nicely) and then heat the end of the pin slowly with a torch. Between heatings, I like to put the pin in a vise and give it a good twist to see if the glue is loose yet. The bare minimum is what you're after here.