One mans gold is another mans copper.we need a playoff of all the sighting systems etc., and see what's what!
Yeah, and a tournament to see which is the best cue. And one to see which are the best pool shoes. Oh yeah, and another one to decide, once and for all, whether a nickel or dime tip shape is best for 8 Ball.we need a playoff of all the sighting systems etc., and see what's what!
Yeah, and a tournament to see which is the best cue. And one to see which are the best pool shoes. Oh yeah, and another one to decide, once and for all, whether a nickel or dime tip shape is best for 8 Ball.
That'll settle some things...
pj
chgo
Thanks for the link.
Take away:
If one can see a defined edge of a shadow under the OB, One can aim at it's edge to see what the resulting cut angle that line of aim will produce - (calibrate) and use that whenever the same cut angle occurs.
The pool shot it's self is an illusion in a way. Our eyes aren't designed to see in the manner that is required, so we have to create a perception that feels and looks correct (for us personally).
Using the shadows on the balls, table, or even the light on the balls (as Mosconi reportedly did) will work as a reference point for aiming. I can use just about any "aiming system" and pocket balls, however, there are techniques that I personally prefer because they tap into my touch and feel, not eyesight.
I use either the center or edge of the object ball for my reference point and the cue ball to create the particular angle. This works for me because it's simple and I can create any angle in the game of pool using it.
No matter what "aiming system" someone prefers, it still comes down to creating angles and unlocking your imagination so that your subconscious is allowed to bring out the perfection of the game. We simply can't do this consciously and some players go through life looking for the "magic bullet" that does not exist. 'The Game is our Teacher'
Actual table lighting typically produces multiple shadows under each ball, none of them circular or even centered on the ball.
pj
chgo
This is particularly true where I shoot at a bowling ally with random ceiling lights. The shadows are all over the place.
When I first 'learned' the shadow stuff it was in our garage & the single ceiling light was not centered over the table.
Perhaps there is something magical in light.
I just read today that light traveled 93 million miles unobstructed on its journey to Earth only to be stopped by you & I & the shadows that we cast.
Like I've said before I've never found a situation where the shadows could not be used.
Remember shadows are not something hard & concrete so they may require a bit of 'feel' sensitivity to get them to work properly, ie slight adjustment or calibration.
Yeah, and a tournament to see which is the best cue. And one to see which are the best pool shoes. Oh yeah, and another one to decide, once and for all, whether a nickel or dime tip shape is best for 8 Ball.
That'll settle some things...
pj
chgo
This is particularly true where I shoot at a bowling ally with random ceiling lights. The shadows are all over the place.
This is also true on most snooker tables. Some have lights that run the length of the table, others have lights that are higher up above the table but shorter in length and still manage to light the entire table. One this ive noticed with snooker is the colours are always in the same place usually. The black is always on its spot so you will rarely see me miss a black off the spot. The light reflections and shadows are always the same on the black and this really helps with using these as reference points for your aim.This is particularly true where I shoot at a bowling ally with random ceiling lights. The shadows are all over the place.
I envy your imagination.
I will stick to fractions on the CB and OB and the center and edges of the CB.
the dark shadow closest to the bottom of the ball is about a quarter of the ball
aim at that on the object for about a 15 degree cut (3/4 ball hit)
aim at the edge of the object ball for a 30 degree cut
aim your stick past the outside edge of the object ball for a 1/4 ball hit (45 degree cut
and edge of q ball to edge of object ball for thinner that that cuts
its easy if your stroke is straight and repeatable......
icbw
I will stick to fractions on the CB and OB and the center and edges of the CB.
This is also true on most snooker tables. Some have lights that run the length of the table, others have lights that are higher up above the table but shorter in length and still manage to light the entire table. One this ive noticed with snooker is the colours are always in the same place usually. The black is always on its spot so you will rarely see me miss a black off the spot. The light reflections and shadows are always the same on the black and this really helps with using these as reference points for your aim.
I hear a lot of decent club players saying they use the light reflections to aim. However I've never been able to understand how they use them.
Obviously they're different from table to table and from light to light, so obviously they can't be a consistent reference. "Fractional" aimers may be kidding themselves about their systems being "exact", but at least they have fixed references (ball quarters) - shadows and lights takes kidding yourself to a whole new level.This is also true on most snooker tables. Some have lights that run the length of the table, others have lights that are higher up above the table but shorter in length and still manage to light the entire table. One this ive noticed with snooker is the colours are always in the same place usually. The black is always on its spot so you will rarely see me miss a black off the spot. The light reflections and shadows are always the same on the black and this really helps with using these as reference points for your aim.
I hear a lot of decent club players saying they use the light reflections to aim. However I've never been able to understand how they use them.
Can I ask how many times have you played snooker? Or do you just play pool, badly? When I'm referring to snooker I speak from experience. You speak from a lack of experience when it comes to snooker. Lights are centred above snooker tables rather precisely. So, the main reflections and main shadows are pretty damn consistent. Steve Davis him self has a video on youtube of how to use lights on the colours running centrally down the table.Obviously they're different from table to table and from light to light, so obviously they can't be a consistent reference. "Fractional" aimers may be kidding themselves about their systems being "exact", but at least they have fixed references (ball quarters) - shadows and lights takes kidding yourself to a whole new level.
pj
chgo
They're centered above pool tables too, but they're different configurations at different heights and there are other lights around.Lights are centred above snooker tables rather precisely.
Hence why I stated that they're good consistent aids on just the colours off their spots in snooker. They get respotted in the same place, the lights are in the same place, so they're as consistent as can possibly be in a game of snooker. If I ever get chance to find the Steve Davis video I will post it and you can try it on your own table and see for yourself how helpful light reflections can be. Its a little tricker on pool tables, because you tend not to have separate light dots as you do on snooker tables.They're centered above pool tables too, but they're different configurations at different heights and there are other lights around.
Not to mention that shadows change as ball positions do, even if the lights are precisely the same from table to table.
No offense, Pidge, but shadows and lights just don't stand to reason as consistent aiming aids.
And, by the way, suggesting that I play badly isn't an argument that supports your understanding of the topic.
pj
chgo