Small table vs Standard????

mel_smOg

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey
I moved for a bit to a small town where there are only bar tables for pool, but today I found 2 snooker tables with decent balls, good cloth and rails but they are 10x5 and have bigger pockets. Do you this with hurt my game??? I was only playing on pro Riley 12x6 with extremely tiny pockets. My highest break is only 40, but thats because the table is extremely hard and pockets are sooooo small.
thanks
 

acesinc1999

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The old saying is "(Snooker) is like sex--even when it's bad, it's still pretty good." I think that nearly all will agree that playing on a full size table, with proper cushions, cloth and pocket cuts is the best snooker experience. After all, isn't one of the main points to try to emulate and aspire to the professional game? And that can only be done when playing the game on equipment as nearly identical as possible. We could pretend that we are Jack Nicklaus when hitting balls at the driving range, but any golfer would certainly prefer to play a round at Augusta.

Your question, I think, is--will playing regularly on this non-standard equipment have a negative effect on your ablities when you go back to a full size table? I would suggest, in the short term, yes. But in the long term, if you handle the situation correctly, no. Quite the opposite, potentially, you can use this opportunity to improve your game. You have two options: quit the game until you can get back to equipment you would prefer; or play the game on admittedly non-standard equipment while you need to, deriving enjoyment from it, keeping your stroke grooved, and hone your skills wherever this equipment allows.

With either of those options, your game will suffer in the short term when you get back to "proper" equipment, so I would go with the second choice. That way, when you do get back to the equipment you prefer, I think that you will re-orient your game to the proper equipment faster than if you go "cold turkey" when a proper table is not available.

I think that common thought is that the 10x5 must be easier since the pots must necessarily be shorter (plus the fact that you said the pockets are more forgiving). While that is obviously true, I can think of two aspects of these 10x5's that are actually more difficult than the full size table so you should seize this opportunity to improve those parts of your game.

First, since the pockets are more forgiving, they will accept pots easier. But this can bite you because, for the same reason, the pockets will also accept an in-off easier as well. You may find yourself scratching the white much more frequently than you ever did on the full size. How often on the full size does a potential scratch come very close but whitey doesn't disappear because the pockets are tight? Take this opportunity to take command of your cue ball path and learn exactly how the white is going to travel, not only to avoid the in-off but just for positional play in general.

And second (and actually related to the first in a sense), since the playing surface is smaller, but the balls are basically the same size (some 10x5's in the US even use 2-1/8" balls which are larger than professional spec), that means significantly less margin for error in your positional game. Consider a basic red in a top pocket, cue off the top cushion to leave on black. Often, black will have a couple of reds near it to leave a "window" for postion that we must get the cue ball to. How do we figure this? In general, players will draw an imaginary wedge shape on the surface to visualize where to leave the cue ball. Then, when playing the white off the cushion to leave in this "wedge of opportunity", we will normally shy toward the fatter side of the wedge to leave the greatest margin of error to get on black. You will find that with the smaller playing surface, this "wedge of opportunity" is going to shrink significantly, maybe 40 or 50 per cent smaller by the geometric area. This is akin to playing a shot and trying to stop the white on an area of a half sheet of paper, rather than a full sheet of paper if you were playing the same shot on a full size table. For the same reason, you will find it easier to lay wicked snookers on the 10x5--the (relatively speaking) bigger balls are simply a larger interference to the white's pathlines to the object balls.

So take this opportunity to improve your control of whitey. With the looser pockets, now you can even "cheat the pockets" to a degree when necessary to get the white to go where you need it to go. It seems to me that on the full size proper table, cheating the pocket is generally a foolhardy effort. Of course, when you do go back to the full size table, it will take a short period to reacclimate your game, but my opinion is that with the right mental attitude, this will be a chance to improve your game in the long run. Good luck, and enjoy.
 

mel_smOg

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
thanks for reply Ace, I have been playing quite a bit on the small table now and like it. Working a lot on my deflection side and improving the percentage of spin shots I always miss. White ball really goes in so much more than i am used to haha
One guy told me it will help my pool game but not snooker, and I am not sure he is right. He said all the angles are different on the small table but I dont find the huge difference in angles- maybe because I play both snooker and pool equally
 

acesinc1999

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
One guy told me it will help my pool game but not snooker, and I am not sure he is right. He said all the angles are different on the small table...

I think this is referring to the same phenomenon I stated earlier...

"...you will find it easier to lay wicked snookers on the 10x5--the (relatively speaking) bigger balls are simply a larger interference to the white's pathlines to the object balls."

I believe he is stating the same thing in a different way. When the playing surface is smaller (--mathematically, the 10x5 is about 31 per cent smaller in surface area--) and the balls are the same size, balls are RELATIVELY larger on the small table and so create a larger interference, creating more frequent snookers and more difficulty escaping snookers. If you are good with math and geometry, you can think of it this way.....the balls are 2-1/16" in diameter but each ball is effectively three times that wide for snookering purposes (you can lay a snooker behind the very fine left edge, the very fine right edge, or anything in between) so the three baulk colours collectively create about 18-1/2 inches of "snookering interference" when sitting on their spots (such as when you bring the white back to the baulk cushion for a basic safety). On the 10x5, that 18-1/2" equates to about 31 per cent interference (across the baulkline) with the path of the white ball versus about 26 per cent interference on the larger 12x6 table surface. (I know this is not technically accurate since "snookering interference" really depends on how close the white ball is to the interfering ball; I am simply trying to make a mathematical comparison of the two different table sizes.)

On the flip side, when you are trying to leave yourself position, imagine when you leave yourself on the "wrong side" of the blue so you have to go in and out of baulk to get back to the pack of reds for position. On the larger table, this is much easier to do for the same reason. On the small table, it is more difficult to "weave a path" through those interfering baulk colours.

I would suggest that this line of reasoning would explain why your guy suggested that the "angles are different". Basically, the larger your table surface area, the easier it is to give yourself position, but the more difficult it is to lay a strong snooker on your opponent; the smaller your table surface area, the more difficult your positioning, but easier to lay a strong snooker.
 

Five_Rivers

Registered
Hey
I moved for a bit to a small town where there are only bar tables for pool, but today I found 2 snooker tables with decent balls, good cloth and rails but they are 10x5 and have bigger pockets. Do you this with hurt my game??? I was only playing on pro Riley 12x6 with extremely tiny pockets. My highest break is only 40, but thats because the table is extremely hard and pockets are sooooo small.
thanks
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