Things I need for my first cue?

[Magnumsk]

I've mentioned in few threads that I'm coming back to pool after many years and getting a decent cue. I'm trying to figure out a few things about tip care.

I bought a McDermott GS-06, btw. It's on order and will come in about a week. I watched a video on how to use a 5-in-1 tips tool, so I got one. It looks simple enough to use...on the video, anyway. It makes sense that tip care is so important.

Something tells me this might be a hotly debated topic, but I'm wondering also about what tip diameter I should use. I have a feeling that everyone has their preference. Am I right? I figured I'd go with nickel size simply because I figure I could use a larger hitting surface in the beginning. Am I seeing this right, or is there a reason why dime size might be better for a bad beginner?

I bought the Jim Rempe training ball so I can learn a quicker how to correct mistakes. And for those who helped me with earlier question, I did buy a glove for my right hand. I have a good feeling that it will help with my bridging issues.

 

[RickLafayette]

When it comes to tip care, less is better. First, figure out what shape will fit your style: a more rounded shape like a dime radius if you're going to be using English for better contact with the CB, nickel radius if you'll not be using a lot of English at first. Just remember, once you have your radius, don't keep shaping it as this wears tips down more than anything else. All radius' will slightly flatten after you shape it so don't go crazy trying to keep an exact shape. Scuff your tip if you feel the chalk isn't holding or is starting to glaze. Watch some of the many videos on how to scuff your tip properly. You don't want to use a "sanding" motion.

Practice your stroke a lot. Your aiming will not improve or remain consistent until you have a straight and consistent stroke. There's a lot of talent and expertise on this site and you should have more advice coming. Good luck.

 

[jayburger]

I have a good repair guy install(if your cue that you get already has a decent quality tip on it fine) and have him shape and cut the tip down to the thickness i prefer. When a tip is installed correctly and burnished on the lathe it almost never goes out of shape.it may mushroom just a little after playing with it for 2 or 3 days and if it does simply take it back to him and have him reshape it (cut the mushrooming off) and you should not have to do anything for 6 months to 2 years but chalk up. I know there are variables like if you play 8 hours a day of course the tip will wear out sooner,but as far as shaping a tip i believe a razor blade on a lathe is the best method by far. I have seen countless tips messed up by people whittling on them with various tip tools and like anything i,m sure some are better than others but at the end of the day simply have a QUALiTY repair guy install and/or shape your tips and maintenance is not an issue. As far as shape i prefer a nickel radius but some like penny,dime ,etc... If you start out with a nickel and it isn,t exactly what you want you can have it shaped more like a dime radius without having to cut it down much. I only let mike guylassey or joe blackburn do any tip work on my cues . You are gonna run into many guys with a lathe and some are decent and most(in my experience ) are not. Imo your tip being shaped and cut to the exact thickness you want and shaped exactly how YOU want it is the single most important thing in playing pool. Why settle for mediocre tips or repair work?

 

[Magnumsk]

When it comes to tip care, less is better. First, figure out what shape will fit your style: a more rounded shape like a dime radius if you're going to be using English for better contact with the CB, nickel radius if you'll not be using a lot of English at first. Just remember, once you have your radius, don't keep shaping it as this wears tips down more than anything else. All radius' will slightly flatten after you shape it so don't go crazy trying to keep an exact shape. Scuff your tip if you feel the chalk isn't holding or is starting to glaze. Watch some of the many videos on how to scuff your tip properly. You don't want to use a "sanding" motion.

Practice your stroke a lot. Your aiming will not improve or remain consistent until you have a straight and consistent stroke. There's a lot of talent and expertise on this site and you should have more advice coming. Good luck.

Thanks for this help, Rick. I will work on my stroke. I was thinking of using the tip tapper part of the 5-in-1 (more than using the scuffer). The tip tapper seemed more of a "no-brainer" in terms of worrying about screwing it up by accident. It does the same job as a scuffer, correct?

 

[Magnumsk]

I have a good repair guy install(if your cue that you get already has a decent quality tip on it fine) and have him shape and cut the tip down to the thickness i prefer. When a tip is installed correctly and burnished on the lathe it almost never goes out of shape.it may mushroom just a little after playing with it for 2 or 3 days and if it does simply take it back to him and have him reshape it (cut the mushrooming off) and you should not have to do anything for 6 months to 2 years but chalk up. I know there are variables like if you play 8 hours a day of course the tip will wear out sooner,but as far as shaping a tip i believe a razor blade on a lathe is the best method by far. I have seen countless tips messed up by people whittling on them with various tip tools and like anything i,m sure some are better than others but at the end of the day simply have a QUALiTY repair guy install and/or shape your tips and maintenance is not an issue. As far as shape i prefer a nickel radius but some like penny,dime ,etc... If you start out with a nickel and it isn,t exactly what you want you can have it shaped more like a dime radius without having to cut it down much. I only let mike guylassey or joe blackburn do any tip work on my cues . You are gonna run into many guys with a lathe and some are decent and most(in my experience ) are not. Imo your tip being shaped and cut to the exact thickness you want and shaped exactly how YOU want it is the single most important thing in playing pool. Why settle for mediocre tips or repair work?

Thanks Jay. I've heard a lot of concern about tip care. When I need a new tip, I will definitely ask around my area for a good repair guy. I have no intention of doing it myself. Those DIY videos don't give me confidence that I'm able to do it well on my own.

 

[greyghost]

Thanks for this help, Rick. I will work on my stroke. I was thinking of using the tip tapper part of the 5-in-1 (more than using the scuffer). The tip tapper seemed more of a "no-brainer" in terms of worrying about screwing it up by accident. It does the same job as a scuffer, correct?

My boy....keep a 1x1 square of 240grit in your wallet......

This is all you will ever need. If you need anything else your doing it wrong or you blew a chunk off your tip lol.

Rick gave very good advice.

Keep abrasives like sandpaper and scotchbrite away from your shaft as well.

The radius of the tip doesn't matter. The dime is easier to see placement just as it's easier to place a smaller tip....that's all.

Best wishes,
-greyghost


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Johnny Rosato]

I've mentioned in few threads that I'm coming back to pool after many years and getting a decent cue. I'm trying to figure out a few things about tip care.

I bought a McDermott GS-06, btw. It's on order and will come in about a week. I watched a video on how to use a 5-in-1 tips tool, so I got one. It looks simple enough to use...on the video, anyway. It makes sense that tip care is so important.

Something tells me this might be a hotly debated topic, but I'm wondering also about what tip diameter I should use. I have a feeling that everyone has their preference. Am I right? I figured I'd go with nickel size simply because I figure I could use a larger hitting surface in the beginning. Am I seeing this right, or is there a reason why dime size might be better for a bad beginner?

I bought the Jim Rempe training ball so I can learn a quicker how to correct mistakes. And for those who helped me with earlier question, I did buy a glove for my right hand. I have a good feeling that it will help with my bridging issues.

A better choice,(IMO),would be the "It's George" tip tool. That,a Q wiz,a Tiger leather burnisher and a small hand towel are probably the only tools you'll need to carry. Go easy on the shaping/scuffing,learn to do it and learn to chalk PROPERLY. Good luck and good shooting. BTW,good choice on the McD,the make a fine cue & have excellent warranty and customer service !!!

 

[Magnumsk]

A better choice,(IMO),would be the "It's George" tip tool. That,a Q wiz,a Tiger leather burnisher and a small hand towel are probably the only tools you'll need to carry. Go easy on the shaping/scuffing,learn to do it and learn to chalk PROPERLY. Good luck and good shooting. BTW,good choice on the McD,the make a fine cue & have excellent warranty and customer service !!!

Thanks for the advice. I figure that "less is more" simply because that small piece of leather at the end of my cue can be ruined fairly easily. I'm a bit nervous that I'll screw it up by doing too much. I really liked McDermott's warranty & the fact that it's made in the US. Schmelke was my 2nd choice.

 

[Magnumsk]

My boy....keep a 1x1 square of 240grit in your wallet......

This is all you will ever need. If you need anything else your doing it wrong or you blew a chunk off your tip lol.

Rick gave very good advice.

Keep abrasives like sandpaper and scotchbrite away from your shaft as well.

The radius of the tip doesn't matter. The dime is easier to see placement just as it's easier to place a smaller tip....that's all.

Best wishes,
-greyghost


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! I appreciate your words.

 

[Captain18]

Lots of good advice here. ..opinions vary of course. My suggestion would be to follow the tips provided and use what you feel works best for you.....and protect your cue with a JB CASE. I've had many cases and the JB protects your cue the best.
Welcome back to the game and good luck on improving.

 

[Magnumsk]

Lots of good advice here. ..opinions vary of course. My suggestion would be to follow the tips provided and use what you feel works best for you.....and protect your cue with a JB CASE. I've had many cases and the JB protects your cue the best.
Welcome back to the game and good luck on improving.

Thanks for the encouragement. I bought a Joe Porper 2 x 2 hard case, with the thought that I may get a breaking cue at some point. It looks like it will protect the cue well, even though it's a fairly non-descript case. For me, protecting the cue is more important than what the case looks like. I love the looks of some of these cases. But I worry a nice looking case might invite too much attention & it might go missing.

 

[Johnny Rosato]

Lots of good advice here. ..opinions vary of course. My suggestion would be to follow the tips provided and use what you feel works best for you.....and protect your cue with a JB CASE. I've had many cases and the JB protects your cue the best.
Welcome back to the game and good luck on improving.

I forgot to mention the JB case !!!

 

[ceebee]

I too came back to Pool in 1999, after a 20 year hiatus. Some friends at a great Moose Lodge liked playing, they gambled a little & they had tournaments. It wasn't long before I was coming back.

I have a TIP TOOL (the spikey thing), a piece of wire sand paper (the garnet coated wire), it works great, just a twist & the chalk has something to grip to. I'd also get a Cue-Wiz to slick up the shaft & burnish it.

I prefer the nickel radius & have a Willard tip tool.

I used to like 13mm diameter, but have gone to the 12.6mm tip

If you like banking, you can look up Tor Lowry & Manning cues for some banking & kicking info.

Welcome to the club & Good Luck

 

[Magnumsk]

I too came back to Pool in 1999, after a 20 year hiatus. Some friends at a great Moose Lodge liked playing, they gambled a little & they had tournaments. It wasn't long before I was coming back.

I have a TIP TOOL (the spikey thing), a piece of wire sand paper (the garnet coated wire), it works great, just a twist & the chalk has something to grip to. I'd also get a Cue-Wiz to slick up the shaft & burnish it.

I prefer the nickel radius & have a Willard tip tool.

I used to like 13mm diameter, but have gone to the 12.6mm tip

If you like banking, you can look up Tor Lowry & Manning cues for some banking & kicking info.

Welcome to the club & Good Luck

I appreciate your help. I have a physical issue that I've mentioned in other threads that makes me (at this point) focus the very basics of aiming & getting my stroke correct. We're literally talking the basics here. Usually if I make a bank shot, it was on an unintended target bal.

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

Stuff

I've mentioned in few threads that I'm coming back to pool after many years and getting a decent cue. I'm trying to figure out a few things about tip care.

I bought a McDermott GS-06, btw. It's on order and will come in about a week. I watched a video on how to use a 5-in-1 tips tool, so I got one. It looks simple enough to use...on the video, anyway. It makes sense that tip care is so important.

Something tells me this might be a hotly debated topic, but I'm wondering also about what tip diameter I should use. I have a feeling that everyone has their preference. Am I right? I figured I'd go with nickel size simply because I figure I could use a larger hitting surface in the beginning. Am I seeing this right, or is there a reason why dime size might be better for a bad beginner?

I bought the Jim Rempe training ball so I can learn a quicker how to correct mistakes. And for those who helped me with earlier question, I did buy a glove for my right hand. I have a good feeling that it will help with my bridging issues.

Best tip shaper


Best Pocket chalkers

Best belt clip chalk holder.

Fastest learning bank kick training system

Coolest car to go to the pool hall in

I guess someone else will have to post a cool looking cue case .
I have never photographed mine.

 

[pwd72s]

'34 Grille? A beautiful design...

Porper cases work just fine...

 

[wigglybridge]

don't care much if i get flamed for this, it's true:

you don't need any tip tool. none. ever.

when i got back into pool some years ago after a decades-long hiatus, i bought all the gizmos -- which didn't exist when i was a kid -- and used them assiduously. around the time i got my OB Classic, i finally realized it was all hokum, and just wore the tip down.

so i haven't used any of that crap on my cues in several years of playing 3+ hours per day, and the entire time they have maintained a perfect dime radius. they Never glaze. instead of lasting 6-12 months till they need re-tipping, they last 2+ years. that's on tips including non-laminated and Moori and Everest (to be fair, i've never used Kamui, i suppose glazing is possible with tips i haven't tried).

do i miscue? yeah, maybe once a week. that comes from a bad stroke, not whether or not you use some gizmo.

all you need is proper chalking technique. that's it.

here's a secret no one ever tells you: the edges of your tip is where you really need chalk. and if you primarily chalk there, your tip stays in proper shape automatically.
don't wipe flat across the top like Mike DeChaine, and don't drill the chalk with your cue. if you do, THEN you need all the tip shaping toys.

the only true thing that Fats ever said was "chalk the cue like a broad putting on lipstick".

 

[gpeezy]

willard tip tool nickel radius. dime is ridiculous. laminated tips will glaze from the glue so hit with light sandpaper every so often if using one. don't over analyze the tip condition it will make you crazy. i played everest and never really found any issue with them if i bought from somewhere that they havent been sitting in a hot warehouse for 2 years. I loved playing milkduds if the guy knew how to do them correctly.

 

[j2pac]

Thanks for the advice. I figure that "less is more" simply because that small piece of leather at the end of my cue can be ruined fairly easily. I'm a bit nervous that I'll screw it up by doing too much. I really liked McDermott's warranty & the fact that it's made in the US. Schmelke was my 2nd choice.

I always just carried a Willards dime. Never seemed to need much more than that.
Good luck.
Joe P.

 

[PhilosopherKing]

5 of my favorite tip tools:

sandpaper
thumbtack
brick wall mortar joint
cutting-edge pulled off a packing tape dispenser
emery board