I posted a similar question in the cue review section but wanted more opinions. What is the best traditional shaft (non ld)?
Traditional shaft
- Thread starter Charles Hartfield
- Start date
i think its all preference, try a few and put table time in with the one you like the most. Spend time with it and youll adjust to it.
J. Pechauer Cues
Any cue maker using old growth (aged) Canadian maple is probably making the best shafts. I have two shafts made by Dennis Searing that are permanently NFS!
Learn how to look for quality maple, get it tapered how you prefer with the tip and ferrule you prefer.
I have a shaft from a $20 import that would embarrass most cuemakers.
I have also seen shafts from one of the most prized cuebuilders that aren't worthy of kindling wood. They played like it, too. Suck ups on this site said that same cue "hit a ton" so don't just rely on sycophantic opinions here.
I have a shaft from a $20 import that would embarrass most cuemakers.
I have also seen shafts from one of the most prized cuebuilders that aren't worthy of kindling wood. They played like it, too. Suck ups on this site said that same cue "hit a ton" so don't just rely on sycophantic opinions here.
Pangit
Banned
At the end of the day...it's ALWAYS the Wizard, not the Wand. Maybe you should try one of those shaft's made form vintage bowling alley wood?
Practice, Practice, Practice is always the answer.
You're going to get 100 different answers, mostly custom owners trying to protect their egos and the value of their investments.
Really, just look at the growth rings, the grain, the density/weight and the ferrule length/material. You also need to decide if you want capped/uncapped ferrule.
My preference is heavy shaft, many growth rings, uncapped ferrule, fairly short ferrule, and material for the ferrule could be fiber, carbon fiber or juma (depending on mood, lol). I also like more conical taper styles rather than pure pro-taper.
Never tried two wooden shafts that hit exactly alike, and I don't think I ever will. Whenever a cue has two shafts (no matter if they are original, with the same specs) there is always one that's better than the other. Whenever a cue has two shafts, there is always one that stays in the case, at least that's true for most players I know. Even if they "force themselves" to get used to both, the end result is usually the above.
In the end I don't believe there is a reliable way to detect a good shaft, other than trying it. I've tried shafts that looked perfect, right weight, specs etc. but hit like dog crap. I've also tried shafts that should not be good that hit excellent. Best method to fast track selection is to shoot spin shots far out on the cue ball. If the shaft still feels solid on those shots, and you get the action you need, it's a good one.
Really, just look at the growth rings, the grain, the density/weight and the ferrule length/material. You also need to decide if you want capped/uncapped ferrule.
My preference is heavy shaft, many growth rings, uncapped ferrule, fairly short ferrule, and material for the ferrule could be fiber, carbon fiber or juma (depending on mood, lol). I also like more conical taper styles rather than pure pro-taper.
Never tried two wooden shafts that hit exactly alike, and I don't think I ever will. Whenever a cue has two shafts (no matter if they are original, with the same specs) there is always one that's better than the other. Whenever a cue has two shafts, there is always one that stays in the case, at least that's true for most players I know. Even if they "force themselves" to get used to both, the end result is usually the above.
In the end I don't believe there is a reliable way to detect a good shaft, other than trying it. I've tried shafts that looked perfect, right weight, specs etc. but hit like dog crap. I've also tried shafts that should not be good that hit excellent. Best method to fast track selection is to shoot spin shots far out on the cue ball. If the shaft still feels solid on those shots, and you get the action you need, it's a good one.
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You ain't going to look at NUTHIN' (rings, grain, etc.) if you buy the shaft unseen from a company online.
If you are going to "gamble", gamble cheap, where you can play the odds of getting a good playing shaft.
Wood is wood!
If you are lucky, you are lucky.
Don't buy a $5 shaft, but don't buy a $500 one either (unless you have tried it first).
I have three Schmelke wood shafts that ALL play good and they cost less than $100 each.
Quality materials made to my specs....
Jeff
Jeff
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Some of the best shafts i have ever played with were used by the 1980s Excalibur cue company-NOT the more recent firm. The old 1980s Excalibur cues- most were just plain stained maple cues (merry widows) had very straight shafts that seem to be that old growth Canadian maple that everyone wants in a traditional maple shaft- I have seen a few of these around on eBay- and I have one now that plays as good as any custom out there- I payed $20 on eBay for the cue- it was a 1980s in mint condition- it is straight- and I have seen other shafts like it on vintage Excalibur cues. Those shafts can be made to fit most butt joint specs by a good cue maker- Troy Downey at Muellers did mine perfectly. I came to learn about these shafts when picking up my 83 year old cousins' vintage Excalibur cue in a game two years ago - I thought it was a Joss West by the way it played and the joint rings- until I saw the Excalibur name still faint on the buttcap.
I looked for quite a while on eBay to find one in great shape- they are out there!
I looked for quite a while on eBay to find one in great shape- they are out there!
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JC
Coos Cues
When I decide on shaft wood I start with 1 inch squares and turn them round. Then over a couple of years I take off a little at a time and always mark on any that showed any warp at all. If a shaft warps three cuts in a row it's gone. This is about 5% of them. That's assuming the grain is straight from end to end.
My experience is shaft wood that is straight the first through third time you cut it from a square will remain straight throughout it's life.
I have also found zero correlation between growth rings, stability and weight. Some of the most dense dead nut straight shafts I have made have had 5-6 growth rings. Some of the warpiest POS blanks I've tossed have had 15-18. Every growth ring is a transition and an opportunity for stress in the wood. More isn't necessarily better.
Pure white wood is great if you're opening a museum but for playing pool not so much of a thing.
Wood is a natural material with some color variations. There in lies it's beauty.
My experience is shaft wood that is straight the first through third time you cut it from a square will remain straight throughout it's life.
I have also found zero correlation between growth rings, stability and weight. Some of the most dense dead nut straight shafts I have made have had 5-6 growth rings. Some of the warpiest POS blanks I've tossed have had 15-18. Every growth ring is a transition and an opportunity for stress in the wood. More isn't necessarily better.
Pure white wood is great if you're opening a museum but for playing pool not so much of a thing.
Wood is a natural material with some color variations. There in lies it's beauty.
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My only guess as to why someone would want inferior equipment is because you adjusted your game to inferior equipment. Be better than that, go with LD, you will adjust, and when you do, you will be a much better player. Whoever says it has nothing to do with the arrow is A FOOL, its always a combination of both. Yes, Efren can win a pro tourney with a $12 cue, you are not Efren.
Due to what I have read so far, I only ask that people research for themselves. Do a google search of the simple thought.
"Pool cue shaft grading."
One of the first to pop up is Rolaine, please read for yourself, what would you select?
Did yours make the grade?
"Pool cue shaft grading."
One of the first to pop up is Rolaine, please read for yourself, what would you select?
Did yours make the grade?
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Mine with stag collar and Westinghouse micarta ferrule.
There you go, another opinion.
And nobody is changing it.
Different process here .
Take corners off squares.
Turn round.
Chop off ends and drill the true center of the dowel.
Most of them ain't the physical center . Not .500 from the corners of a 1" dowel.
More work but it's the right imo.
Few other makers agree on this.
Learned this from my late mentor who learned it from Sherm Adamson.
And learning from my other late mentor who learned it from Tad, let the woods experience semi-extreme atmospheric conditions. Hot and cold. Wet and dry.
JC
Coos Cues
That's why I ordered two.
Don't worry the two I picked out from you looked like they weren't watered for decades on end. I know you like the rings.:smile: