The problem with experimenting with cues is that most players don't have the luxury of buying several different types of cues and shafts. Using different house cues won't really give you an idea of the varieties of cues and shafts that can be purchased.
Also, a player's preferences can change as his or her game evolves.
Here are some basic rules of thumb about cues:
1.) Light cues --- under 19 ounces --- are easier to swing but harder to control. Snooker players use many body touch points to keep their light cues in a straight line when stroking.
2.) Light cues --- good for finessing shots, but due to more difficulty in swinging straight, are more demanding for ball-pocketing, especially pocketing pool balls (as opposed to snooker balls).
3.) Heavy cues --- Over approx 20 1/2 ounces --- They will swing straighter due to the extra weight, but can tire your arm out over long play. An ounce or two makes a big difference when something is hanging from your arm for a couple of hours.
4.) Heavy cues --- Ball pocketing will be easier but finessing shots will be more difficult.
That's the main reason why most players purchase cues weighted between 19 and 20 1/2 ounces.
5.) Balance points: Two cues with exactly the same weight can play differently due to their balance points. A cue with a forward balance point will play more like a light cue and a cue with a rear balance point will play more like a heavier cue.
Then you also have shafts and joints to consider. That's more complicated and involved, but one thing to remember:
Laminated, non deflection shafts, like Predator shafts, weigh less than solid wood shafts. So if you decide to buy one for your cue after using a maple shaft on that cue, it will feel lighter.