what do you guys use to fill slate seams

Crash

Pool Hall Owner
Silver Member
From one do-it-yourself guy to another ... Your situation would justify wall spakling. Use the plaster variety, not the vinyl stuff, too soft. Probably easier to get too considering your location. The local mechanics use it here and get away with it for awhile.

Its great MWR provided tables in Afghanistan!
 

reverend

Table Mechanic
Silver Member
I'm not a mechanic by any mean, however, here at the local MWR in Kandahar, Afghanistan, there are four tables in desperate need of recovering. Beeswax won't work, as it easily reaches 100 degrees inside the building during the summer. I think bondo would be the way to go however googling for bondo brings up a myriad of choices. Suggestions for which brand and product would be very helpful. I intend to cover one of the tables with 860, (already on order) level it, and repair any dents and cracks. As stated, I'm not a mechanic by any means, however, having worked in an upholstery shop for a couple of years should provide at least some modicum of skill. Thanks!

This is the stuff to use. Link below to purchase direct form Lowes as well.

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http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?acti...-_-gps-_-Bondo 1-Quart Automotive Body Filler
 

gmillioni

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
bondo or beeswax

as an absolute novice i can say i found bondo to be simple to use. i watched the use of beeswax and didnt think there would be a problem if i ever wanted to use it. the bondo works well for many slate repair problems from my limited experience. you must be fairly quick though as once the hardner is applied the mixture begins to set in about five minutes and the workablility is less desirable. easy clean up to. gerald
 

samy1969

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am a do-it-yourselfer and just moved/installed a pool table. I called the Billiard Factory here in town as they used to sell a white powder that, when mixed with water, would form a suitable bonding agent and crack-filler for the slates. They've stopped carrying it now, and referred me to Lowe's to purchase Durham's Rock Hard Putty. It seemed to work alright, though the table has been setup for only a few days now, so we shall see how well it works in due time.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I am a do-it-yourselfer and just moved/installed a pool table. I called the Billiard Factory here in town as they used to sell a white powder that, when mixed with water, would form a suitable bonding agent and crack-filler for the slates. They've stopped carrying it now, and referred me to Lowe's to purchase Durham's Rock Hard Putty. It seemed to work alright, though the table has been setup for only a few days now, so we shall see how well it works in due time.

Plaster in the seams flakes apart sooner or later, and if the cloth gets vacuumed it spreads around the plaster like sand under the cloth. If you ever get something spilled on the cloth and clean it up, let the cloth dry, and the spill was on a seam, your plaster is really going to flake apart.

Bees wax, though easy to work with has it's problems as well. Lets say your cloth is loose and you want to tighten it up. You get an iron, set it to the wool setting, mist some water on the cloth from a spray bottle, iron the cloth, it tightens right up...but you just melted the wax in the seam right into the cloth. Most all tables I come across with the seams apart, are filled with wax, and that's about 99% of them.

To keep the seams from coming apart you have to anchor the seams in place, part of that anchoring is also making sure the slate screws are tight, that the slate isn't sitting on top of 3/4" of shims either. I've run across a lot of tables set up by mechanics that simple install the frame of the table without even trying to level the frame what so ever, then float level the slates on top of the frame! I mean I've seen tables that the slates were NOT touching the frame of the table ANY where, that's bullshit work if you want my opinion!

Bondo, in conjunction with using super glue is the best. I strap the slates together tight on both sides first. Once I've mounted the slates using the slate screws/machine screws or what ever, then I remove the straps. Once I've leveled the slates to the point that I'm ready to finish the seams, I first check and see if there's any kind of gap in the seams as to where I'm going to place my super glue. I glue about 4" in from the outside edges of the seams on both sides, and about another 4" in the center of the seams. Now, if there's a slight gap in the seam where you're going to place the glue, the super glue is going to seep down into the crack and not hold anything, so take a piece of paper like a business card, writing paper, newspaper...anything that will slide into the seam, slip it in place, then run a bead of super glue down both sides of the paper wick, that'll fill up the gap in the seam so that the glue will hold the slates in place. BUT...if you can slide a piece of cardboard between the slates...call on someone that KNOWS what they're doing:grin:

Now, bondo don't care if it's hot, cold, humid or anything else, so it's the perfect seam filler, because even if you have to fill in some chips in the seam from missing/chipped slate, it won't sink in from balls bouncing on it. The trick to using bondo, is that when you mix it...don't use to much hardener for one, second...spread it evenly over the seam and use your putty knife to spread it flat, do a good job of that, BUT....before it drys hard take that putty knife and scrape up all the extra bondo which is anything more than 1/4" from the actual seam so you don't have to spend until next week trying to sand off all the extra bondo you DIDN"T need in order to get the seam flat and smooth to the touch:grin:

Glen
 

Monk Slayer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks guys for the tips, sorry it's been so long in replying, getting reliable internet here can be difficult at times. : )) No worries tho, I hear that going to change soon. So it looks like super glue and bondo should do the trick, I've plenty of superglue, both thick and thin. Just waiting on the felt and stuff to come in, and then order the bondo. If you'd like I can start another thread and post pics as I go along.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Thanks guys for the tips, sorry it's been so long in replying, getting reliable internet here can be difficult at times. : )) No worries tho, I hear that going to change soon. So it looks like super glue and bondo should do the trick, I've plenty of superglue, both thick and thin. Just waiting on the felt and stuff to come in, and then order the bondo. If you'd like I can start another thread and post pics as I go along.

By all means, post up the pictures buddy:) We're not about trying to put someone down trying to be a mechanic working on tables, we like to help anyone we can, if we can help at all. :D

Glen
 

Cuephoric

1hole anyone?
Silver Member
well beeswax is not perfect for ever, here in the midwest we have lots of temp and humidity changes and if i could prevent seams popping for good then my job would be easier/better. i dont have alot of issues with it but 1 is more then enough. esp for a tech that cares about what he is doing

Segments of superglue between the seams will stop the popping. Then you can use wax or bondo for the rest.
Wax doesn't work for slate repairs with big divots or chips, then bondo is the way to go....
I use bondo for about 90% of the jobs I do. Wax for the rest, and don't even tough Durham's or any of the other putties.
 
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