Points / Veneers: Customer being to picky?

For me maintaining perfect points is really tuff being I cut on a lathe, no ideal how a CNC compares.
I had this holder made. It's like Porpers router holder except I wanted to use a 1/2" shank bit in my Porter cable router instead of using a laminate trimmer. This Forearm is Elforyn.
 

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I had this holder made. It's like Porpers router holder except I wanted to use a 1/2" shank bit in my Porter cable router instead of using a laminate trimmer. This Forearm is Elforyn.
My mount is from Chris but essentially the same set-up.

When I'm cutting forearms I'll do 4-5 at a time and for the most part their spot on, my problem is once I've put the entire butt together and doing my final taper is when things get changed. I use a mid-america lathe with auto feed which does a pretty good job but I think vibration is the biggest problem
 
My mount is from Chris but essentially the same set-up.

When I'm cutting forearms I'll do 4-5 at a time and for the most part their spot on, my problem is once I've put the entire butt together and doing my final taper is when things get changed. I use a mid-america lathe with auto feed which does a pretty good job but I think vibration is the biggest problem
4 or 5 points or 4 or 5 Forearms?
If your points are even when you cut just the Forearm but not when you join it to the handle.
Then the point portion is not your problem.
 
Thanks. I spent a bit of time designing, machining, and building my setup.
hmmm, which parts did you actually design and machine yourself, because it all looks pretty commercial, common, and readily available to me. Sorry to call you out, and that is not my intent, it's just that cuemakers are usually a fat cry from toolmakers, and that looks more like toolmaker work to me. I like to know just what level an artisan is at in their skill. The equipment most toolmakers have would not manufacture that setup you have,,,,,,, which is very nice by the way.
 
hmmm, which parts did you actually design and machine yourself, because it all looks pretty commercial, common, and readily available to me. Sorry to call you out, and that is not my intent, it's just that cuemakers are usually a fat cry from toolmakers, and that looks more like toolmaker work to me. I like to know just what level an artisan is at in their skill. The equipment most toolmakers have would not manufacture that setup you have,,,,,,, which is very nice by the way.

I bought the spindle, ball screws, rails. All of the beds are machined for the rails, drilled and counterbored for the fasteners. Pockets machined for the screw mounts. I made the brackets that hold it on a lathe. I made rail clamps for the vertical axis because they are expensive and ballscrews will back-drive.

I worked as a mechanical engineer for over a dozen years for a world leader in aircraft assemble automation.

Yes, I bought what I could... That's just good engineering practice, but I designed and machined everything that puts it all together.

This is currently a tracer mill, so it has two y-axes, one on a pneumatic cylinder to follow the pattern, one on a ballscrew to adjust the depth of cut.
 
I bought the spindle, ball screws, rails. All of the beds are machined for the rails, drilled and counterbored for the fasteners. Pockets machined for the screw mounts. I made the brackets that hold it on a lathe. I made rail clamps for the vertical axis because they are expensive and ballscrews will back-drive.

I worked as a mechanical engineer for over a dozen years for a world leader in aircraft assemble automation.

Yes, I bought what I could... That's just good engineering practice, but I designed and machined everything that puts it all together.

This is currently a tracer mill, so it has two y-axes, one on a pneumatic cylinder to follow the pattern, one on a ballscrew to adjust the depth of cut.
And now I know, nice work.
 
And now I know, nice work.

As an example:

RAIL_Original.jpeg


That is the x-axis bed. The ball-rails attach to the milled edges on the long sides. They have to be machined flat and parallel. One side is used as a reference edge that the rail buts to, it is within a couple of thousandths straight over 60". The opposite rail is 'floated in' to be parallel to the first. I used hiwin hgr20 knockoff rails and cars for rigidity.

The ballscrew mounts sit in the pockets on the ends that are cut to the same depth as the rail mount surfaces.

Then there are the 75-ish holes to mount everything that have to be in the correct position.

It isn't the most complicated part, none off them are, and I'm no master machinist, but I'm happy with the results.
 
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