Recent content by CavinTan

those are threaded plugs into the shaft, i would bore & thread phenolic back in to plug it if u can..

you're saying your headstock already came with a spare nut in the housing?

how'd you get a nut in the slot to mount the indicator arm?

what do you need help with specifically? Here is a predator truesplice i was working on recently. The phenolic face is just a paper thin cap, with loads of epoxy sitting underneath. Original:

I'm assuming deflection; that's all they engraved on their prototype shaft back then

If you're a sponsored player, they make standard revo's with +40% - that's about a conventional wood shaft deflection. Chang Jung Lin was using this previously (RIP) Tenon was not bored out as hollow, bore diameter also matters. Ferrule was made from the same material as the revo white...

Reviving an old thread. I have posted this on facebook cuemakers group before, with many 'experts' chiming in on the reasons not to add deflection to the shaft. Well, i have done repairs for people in the international circuit ; top 5 in the world rankings , to ADD deflection to their CF...

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I've had a #3 M installed and my first impressions were wow. i like it, contrary to common feedback & opinions. I can get quite a bit of bite on the cueball, and have no issues with chalk staying on. didn't mushroom either, played like a seasoned tip. I am currently waiting on a batch of #1 as...

The inner stud design looks like a night mare to heat and remove without damage elsewhere perhaps.

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Up for sale is a closet queen, BHQ "Skittles" made of Ebony & Holly Wood, colourful veneers. Truly a beautiful work of art. Butt plays very solid ; cored with purpleheart. Comes with Alton Takata matching "cuecaps" - they should be worth at least $1k. Comes with 2 shafts that are unplayed. And...

Ah i see. Sorry, had assumed you parted it off.

In the future, why not bore the original shaft to the required size before parting the rings? Easier than making a cup.. just my 2 cents on how i do it..