Recent content by Ernie eyocues

yeah, in my opinion they are right. I've made some very large flat bottom points, but mostly lately they are approx. .050". The sharper bottom points are hand cut with a hand saw with a .010" kerf. It's a slow process for me, maybe someone has a quicker process.

photos of bottom points

Here is a lucky find. Mostly thru auctions at less than $100. One cracked vile, one chipped base. These levels work well.

I have cut the Centennial snooker aprons to the 9 ft. anniversary. Sure you need to adjust the holes for the rails and reattached the mounting brackets for the corner pieces. It all fits.

hi DeeDeeCues. Attached are photo of a sample of the type of the glue up I do. With all my clamps. I should have clearer with my earlier photos. My mistake. What I did lately was run a face mill across the handle position vee, I checked it and it was bowed. Actually the last blank was...

more photos of my techniques

good morning 3kushn, You are correct about sliding a piece of paper inside the lathe jaw will move the location of the points. To adjust the location of the top point this method will work. But to align the interiors points of a veneered cue is a little different. Going thru the geometry of...

I made some changes to my fullsplice veneer technique. The alignment looks a little bit better. I hand cut the veneers and double checked the thickness before and after glueing the stack up. I also redesigned the glueing jig. The internal points seem to align a little better. If I get...

testing the photosHopefully you can see the veneer alignment

hi, I have seen photos of makers cutting the vee slot on a lathe, on centers. And you're right that this would keep things aligned but I just when down a different rabbit hole and was too stubborn to change until now. I have not made many cues lately, but this alignment of the veneer problem...

greetings Michael, What a clever idea. I never thought of making the centers first then creating the square around the centers. Pure genius. I'm a stubborn old man that like to start projects without a lot of input because it tends to contaminate my design process. But this idea would have...

hi Michael, wow, sometimes my brain doesn't keep up with my thoughts. This is an adjustable center. The 1/4" screw is screwed into the joint end. Then I make an initiate turn and then I can adjust the center by loosening the nuts and slide the plate until the points align. I hope that helps...

photos of one method of adjusting the points.

Yes, all you need to do is adjust the center point under the tip of the point. But unless you the centerline of the veneer section is in line with the turning center and all the veneer stacks are the same thickness and all the glue is cleaned up in the vee section, then maybe the points of the...