SS pin weight

That is very interesting timing. Can you describe what you think about the install. To me, it doesn’t look like SS, and it looks like it was installed hollow. But I can’t tell what you know from the pictures.
 
Poolbawls said:
That is very interesting timing. Can you describe what you think about the install. To me, it doesn’t look like SS, and it looks like it was installed hollow. But I can’t tell what you know from the pictures.
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I don't know but the timing was perfect.
Customer asked me last week if I would change the joint screw of a new cue coming in. This screw had a wooden plug in the front..just a short plug to stop dirt from going inside.
 
Michael Webb said:
I don't know but the timing was perfect.
Customer asked me last week if I would change the joint screw of a new cue coming in. This screw had a wooden plug in the front..just a short plug to stop dirt from going inside.
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It’s all good, my inquiry was about issues related to pins that were bored and installed. I’m not trying to negate your input because your first post pretty much was what I had been thinking. Seeing as we don’t know the reasons why your customer wanted the pin removed, it remains a moot point. It sure does look ugly. Now, if you had shown me a picture of a bored pin that snapped off, I would cringe at the thought of boring pins. The fact that the threads installed in the pool Cue appears to be structurally sound, I conclude that boring the pin didn’t compromise the structural integrity of the pin. Removal of the pin certainly did, but who cares. Honestly, I’ve only removed maybe two pins from Pool Cues and didn’t give a rats ass about the pin. On the other hand, I may have only installed two/three dozen pins in Pool cues, so I’m green, and that’s why I’m here and I’m not ashamed.
So, I get it!! If I want to reduce weight, buy a titanium pin. That’s not an easy task for me as there is no Mail carriers where I live (Costa Rica). I have to make do with what I have. When I purchased my SS pins 5-6 years ago, I had them bored (like you described in your first post). My shop has been in storage for five years as I constructed my house and shop. I’m like a 60 year old kid, on Christmas Day opening all my presents and I have questions.

Cheers
 
cueman said:
I go with Titanium when wanting it a little lighter. Ray Schuler's pin allowed him to completely fill all voids with epoxy and have it come out the relief hole like we do on capped ferrules. It was not for weight it was a gluing method.
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I’m hesitant and feel like I’m going to take a beating for this statement:

This gluing method doesn’t make sense to me. To insure filling the voids, he created a bigger void. It seems to reason that if you fill the hole with enough epoxy, have glue relief in the pin, the voids will be filled as the epoxy is compressed and vacates through the glue relief.
 
Poolbawls said:
The 25% lower weight was after having it bored an inch deep. The removed pin pictured above appears to be bored completely through, not what I was eluding too.
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You'd be much better off boring completely through, or mostly through the pin to achieve a 25% weight reduction. If we imagine a .375" screw as a solid rod at .313" (approximately the screw pitch diameter), you would be about .156" through the entire pin which leaves you a relatively thick wall (~0.050") at the root diameter. This would be plenty of strength to work as a pin and enough to withstand some abuse. If you only bored 1" and removed 25% of the weight, the wall must have been extremely thin.

All the numbers above are just quick reference to demonstrate a point. If you want to remove 25% of a rods weight, you can drill out at 50% of the diameter of the rod. In order to remove 25% by only drilling 1/3 of the way, you need to drill 87% of the diameter.
 
Michael Webb said:
You weren't,
But your initial post said
Bore the screws out.
You said nothing about partially!
Welcome to ATCM!
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Fair enough, I apologize for not describing the pin as partially bored. I’m trying to be as candid as I can be.
So, what I’ve gathered so far is that boring pins is not ideal as other options are available. However, I haven’t seen anything that shows that a bored pin is weakened or subject to failure once installed.
I asked this question because I have a number of these pins that have been bored. I personally think they are fine but wanted opinions or experience regarding the potential consequences of using them. These pins were made and bored by the best in the business. I have no reason to doubt the integrity of the pins, aside from others experience or opinions. Thanks for all the responses
 
Poolbawls said:
I’m hesitant and feel like I’m going to take a beating for this statement:

This gluing method doesn’t make sense to me. To insure filling the voids, he created a bigger void. It seems to reason that if you fill the hole with enough epoxy, have glue relief in the pin, the voids will be filled as the epoxy is compressed and vacates through the glue relief.
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That is a good point. But with the tapped hole full of epoxy and a little paper towel pressure on the end of the pin while screwing it in should do the job without allowing pressure to bust the side of the cue out. Yes I have busted the side of a few cues out from the internal pressure when installing a pin with five minute epoxy many years ago.
 
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