Keeping Finish Off Joint
- Thread starter KentCNC
- Start date
Or use carbide sanding mandrels. Those are a really good investment if your gonna be doing a lot of cues, repair or building. But on the odd repair job for some wacked out cue I've had to make delrin ones to get by. I've also seen some use stainless steel too.
Best way is to not smoke while doing finish work. Wait until after to roll one up.
I have a set of carbide sanding mandrels. If you spary over thoseis it easy to see when you have sanded those down to bare carbide and therefore have the cue at the proper diameter?
Thank you for your reply! If you make the Delrin mandrels a few though under-sized, don't you still have the same issue? I know that joint is crucial so I would think you would need to keep the coating completely off of that. I wouldn't think you would want to scrape off any clear that got on the face of the joint as any small gouges would show up when you mate the joint. I am not doubting what you are telling me. I am sure it works. I am just trying to understand how it works.
Most likely you won't get any clear on the face. After screwing on the Delrin mandrel, wrap it in painters tape. When the cue is still somewhat wet, peel off the tape.
In case you do get clear on the joint face, you have two options.
Place the cue between centers and with a fresh positive rake insert, take a facing cut. Or do like me have a few pieces of 1/2" alu stock flattened on a mill and drill a precision fit hole that just lets the joint pin through. With spray adhesive attach some 800 grit sandpaper to your alu block after you have punched a center hole so the pin fits through. Then press firmly against the face and twist. You should have a nice clean joint face.
In case you do get clear on the joint face, you have two options.
Place the cue between centers and with a fresh positive rake insert, take a facing cut. Or do like me have a few pieces of 1/2" alu stock flattened on a mill and drill a precision fit hole that just lets the joint pin through. With spray adhesive attach some 800 grit sandpaper to your alu block after you have punched a center hole so the pin fits through. Then press firmly against the face and twist. You should have a nice clean joint face.
Last edited:
RidgeRaider
Active member
I take 1" steel spacers, true em up on the lathe, taper one end down to .840, insert a threaded delrin or phenolic plug, then finish away. I let the finish get up and over the mandrel, then I sand it down. Once the finish is complete and dry, I take it off the lathe, then lightly tap the mandrel with a bronze hammer, and a quick twist cleanly breaks it free from the clearcoat on the minutia of face showing on the mandrel. Also, a little wipe of wd40 on the mandrel seems to really help.
I seem to be able to get a few finishes and sanding cycles out of one before it gets smaller than .840 and I make a new one.
It's not as accurate as a carbide mandrel I suppose, and it doesn't last forever, but it only takes me 5minutes to make one and it costs $1.50 each time I make one.
Works good for maintenance arbors too.
I seem to be able to get a few finishes and sanding cycles out of one before it gets smaller than .840 and I make a new one.
It's not as accurate as a carbide mandrel I suppose, and it doesn't last forever, but it only takes me 5minutes to make one and it costs $1.50 each time I make one.
Works good for maintenance arbors too.