I am a happy owner of an Olhausen Innsbruck table that I have had for 25 years. Out of curiousity I stopped in at the local Olhausen dealer to look at the current tables. It looked to me like the pocket facing angles on all the new tables had been made more parallel (not sure that is the right terminology) so that this would seem to me to help with the traditonal Olhausen "pocket rattle." Also, some but not all of the new tables had hardwood liners on the slate rather than mdf. Anyone know anything about this? Thanks much.
Olhausen Fixes?
- Thread starter Logandgriff
- Start date
5 years ago when I bought mine;
Olhausen had 4 grades of furniture tables and 2 kinds of tournament tables.
1) Laminates: lots of MDF and soft woods with laminate on the visibles. cheapo slate frames. $1500+/-
2) Veneers: a little better build quality underneath, most of the MDF turnes into plywood, laminates on visible surfaces. cheapo slate frames. $2000 +/-
3) Hardwoods: Hardwood where you can see things 1/2" stuff, plywoods where you cannot. Poplar slate framing. $2500 +/-
4) Full hardwoods: 2" thick hardwood frames, no ply or MDF to be found, poplar slate frames. $3000 +
And then there were Semi-Pro and Pro tables.
Olhausen had 4 grades of furniture tables and 2 kinds of tournament tables.
1) Laminates: lots of MDF and soft woods with laminate on the visibles. cheapo slate frames. $1500+/-
2) Veneers: a little better build quality underneath, most of the MDF turnes into plywood, laminates on visible surfaces. cheapo slate frames. $2000 +/-
3) Hardwoods: Hardwood where you can see things 1/2" stuff, plywoods where you cannot. Poplar slate framing. $2500 +/-
4) Full hardwoods: 2" thick hardwood frames, no ply or MDF to be found, poplar slate frames. $3000 +
And then there were Semi-Pro and Pro tables.
i watched a video of some european tournament with olhausens and the balls didnt rattle. the rattle killed them from having being used in major tournaments. i hope they fixed it. before they wouldnt listen and lost tons of business from pool players as they concentrated on the tables as decorations that were built well.
a good table mechanic can make them right but who wants to pay a big price for a table that should have been done right in the first place.
a good table mechanic can make them right but who wants to pay a big price for a table that should have been done right in the first place.
I have an Olhausen Hampton built in late 2011. I definitely get a lot of corner pocket rattles. I play a lot on the table and I just have to take into account that shots into the pocket facing above a certain speed might not be accepted.
I don't know why, but maybe it's the pocket cushion angle. According to the BCAPL rule book, their national tournaments are played with tables with an angle of 141 degrees. The best I can measure mine is 145 degrees. A larger angle results in the pockets being more flared out, so when a ball hits the pocket facing it wants to bounce farther away from the pocket exit compared to, say, a Valley bar box where the pockets are actually pointed inwards, making them easier (they use up quarters faster that way).
The 145 degree angle I'm talking about is the interior angle that has a vertices touching the 1-ball in the below picture.
View attachment OlhausenCornerPocket.jpg
I don't know why, but maybe it's the pocket cushion angle. According to the BCAPL rule book, their national tournaments are played with tables with an angle of 141 degrees. The best I can measure mine is 145 degrees. A larger angle results in the pockets being more flared out, so when a ball hits the pocket facing it wants to bounce farther away from the pocket exit compared to, say, a Valley bar box where the pockets are actually pointed inwards, making them easier (they use up quarters faster that way).
The 145 degree angle I'm talking about is the interior angle that has a vertices touching the 1-ball in the below picture.
View attachment OlhausenCornerPocket.jpg