Carom table cushion profile/brand identifying

HaiNhi

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I’ve just set up an Olhausen carom table at home last week. Pretty exited about it. But table is still not my dream table, at least in current condition: existing cushion (My guess is probably at least 10 years old) and cheapo cloth (no name - provided by previous owner, used mainly for straight rail).

Now I’d like to find out what brand the cushion is, how to check for current condition so I can make some informed decision. I tried bouncing a small hammer off it for rebouncing test, hand pinch/compress for dead spot test, etc ... All seems ok but there are still thud sound and ball hopping at medium to high speed.

My plan is to ultimately get one of those European tables in great to new condition (great deal too 😄). In the mean time, if the cushion in the Olhausen is still in great shape, I’ll install Royal Pro cloth to practice & play 3C. If not, I’d replace the cushion too.

Thanks
 

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HaiNhi

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If this is Olhausen’s accu-fast, would it have any label/indication on it? Worth keeping if it’s still soft to the touch/pinch, and passes hammer handle bounce test?
 

Texas Carom Club

9ball did to billiards what hiphop did to america
Silver Member
I would just take the advice pavlos has given
Replace rubber after 12 yrs

If you intend to keep this, i would just go ahead and replace the rubber amd be done with it
 

HaiNhi

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I would. I asked Ken from Classic Billiards but he didn’t get back to me yet.

Right now I’d like to confirm what is wrong with it first though. Is it the bad cushion, or not enough rail bolts, or nose height, etc... before throwing parts at it.

So, what’s I’m doing now is elimination process since I don’t have a good method of narrowing down/pinning point the problem.

I don’t want to run into the situation where I would go ahead and change out the cushion ($400), get a new set of cloth ($250 for Royal pro), but still end up with a not-so-great playing table. Then I’d have to do it all over with a new table, in this case it would be definitely an European!!! :)
 

Texas Carom Club

9ball did to billiards what hiphop did to america
Silver Member
Jmho

Euro tables are over hyped and way over priced


You already know the rail height needs to be 37mm from slate to outter point of nose

Unless you dont already use all the premade rail bolts i think thats ok too
 

HaiNhi

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I questioned my rail bolts and nose height because:
+ bolts:
- some of them are Home Depot cheapo lag bolts: not graded - soft threads. They stripped easily.
- only a couple of them have those nice star-dome lock washers. The rest just have flat washers with split lock washers
- bolts are only 5/16”. Some of them got cross threaded so they’re not as tight. At least 2 spinned.
- short rails have 3, long have 8 holes but slabs only have 6 holes. I checked other tables and there are 4-6 on short rails, a lot more on long rails.
- I didn’t know better till a couple of days earlier reading posts on here. That’s why I didn’t know to change them out. I even used impact driver to tighten them instead of hand ratchet.
==> so, if more and/or bigger bolts (3/8” Vs 5/16” for example) could make a difference I would like to add more, change out to be graded bolts, and possibly to 3/8”.
+ nose height:
- I’ve been using my trusted tape measure (for construction) to spot measure. I could make (should have made) some type of template for more consistency. But Richard, your tool is still super cool. It would be awesome to have it as my bd present. 😁
- as mentioned before in my other post, after mounting, the top surface of the rails are not level. They are higher on the inside. I read a post from RCK mentioning cloth shimming. I tried shimming at rail bolts making them almost level. Still no help.
- I would try to make them all consistent nose height one more time with a template measure to see what’s going on.

So yeah, if I can make my current table work great, it’s be my first choice: for both total cost of investment and pride of sweat equity for my own work. That’s why I’ve kept going back at it so many times.

Thanks for all and any help.
 
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