5x10 Brunswick Gold Crown Carom to Pocket Conversion

bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
I finally got some 'Finished' pictures of one of my latest projects:

A customer of mine wanted a 5x10 pocket table. The only 5x10 table that we could find locally, was a Gold Crown Carom table. The table was stored in the backroom of a poolhall, with less than desirable conditions. The roof had been leaking for years, and two of the aprons for this table were laying on the water-soaked carpeted floor. Fortunately, the slates and frame were stored upright, away from water-soaked areas.

Before I was able to begin doing any work, we allowed the components to dry out for a couple of weeks, at the new location (an old laboratory, in a commercial building). I wish that I had taken more pictures throughout the process, but I am usually more concerned with getting the work done, than I am with documenting it.

At first, I figured I would have to cut two new aprons, to replace the two that were water-logged. They were both badly split and twisted. However, I figured I would try to repair them, just to satisfy my own curiosity. Amazingly, they straightened right out (with the help of some clamping and fixturing), and glued back together just fine. With some filling and some sanding, they look as good as new. I did have to cut a couple new blocks for the ends, to attach the blind brackets to.

The biggest chore was modifying the rails. They had to be cut in half, and have the pockets angles cut into them. I also cut back the subrails, to correctly accept k55 cushions.

The next biggest chore was cutting the pockets into the slate. I created jigs, using a diamond bit in a trim router, to layout the pockets. This gave me a nice sharp line to cut to. The corner pockets were fairly easy to cut, as the slate is cut at a 45 degree angle, and has a beveled wood block attached at the end. For the side pockets, I used a hole saw to cut the wood backer boards, and cut the slate along my layout lines with a diamond blade in a jigsaw. To finish off the pockets, I used a belt sander, and put a radius on the pocket edges with a diamond sanding pad.

I ordered pockets, castings, cushions, and other miscellaneous supplies from Ken Hash, at Classic Billiards.

Table has Simonis 760 installed, with 4 1/4" pockets.
 

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bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
Sorry for the oversized pics.. I'll try to get that corrected.

Here are some 'in process' pics:
 

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bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
More pictures:
 

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bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
Table looks great.

Thanks! It turned out really nice. I used a high gloss bright white cabinet paint. I think it looks awesome! And you can't go wrong with Tournament Blue cloth. This cloth has seen some wear since it was first put on, back in January. The owner is one of the better players in Central New York, so the table certainly sees some serious play.
 

Dave

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi there,
The machining of the slate that you show .... the side pocket.
Nicely done!
The notion of a ten footer with 4 1/4" pockets.... just thinking about that makes me anxious.

Dave
 

bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
Hi there,
The machining of the slate that you show .... the side pocket.
Nicely done!
The notion of a ten footer with 4 1/4" pockets.... just thinking about that makes me anxious.

Dave

Thank you! It certainly made a dusty mess, but I tried to contain it, by keeping the vacuum in close proximity to the sander. I wish I had taken better photos, as these are a bit blurry.

I should mention, it wasn't really necessary to use the trim router for the layout of the side pocket; I could have just drawn a line instead. However, I wanted a hard line to cut the pocket to and finish sand against. I think that having that visual, really helped with creating a smooth radius, and also helped to ensure that the radius was cut precisely to my desired dimensions.

As for the pockets, the customer wanted tight pockets. I cut the down draft angle fairly steep (14 degrees, if I remember correctly), so that they play more forgiving. So, although they are tight, they still accept balls reasonably well.
 

Crash

Pool Hall Owner
Silver Member
I'm not a mechanic, but nice looking work. It looks like the nose on the corner pockets are cut 135 degrees?
 

bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
I'm not a mechanic, but nice looking work. It looks like the nose on the corner pockets are cut 135 degrees?

Thank you.
I'm glad you asked that question, as it prompted me to go back and look at the photo.. The angle of the photo makes it look like the pocket openings are cut close to 135 degrees, but they are in fact cut to 142 degrees, as per the WPA specs for tables. Whenever I modify pocket openings, I work within these specs, as they are the only written specs that I am aware of.
 

Crash

Pool Hall Owner
Silver Member
142, Good! It would be a shame to have it play like a Valley after all that work.:thumbup:
 
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